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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey you guys, I know the front end on my Nova is from Speedway. But I never got a clear answer that I recall, as to what sort of rear suspension was under there.

Certainly nothing under there GM or factory original in any way. Runs a 9" Ford rear end.
I only got curious reading the post about using coil overs or not. Coil overs are all I got. I do know that the huge bar under the driveshaft is pretty low to the ground. I have to back up my driveway because the approach is kind of steep. And this is something I need to remember everywhere I go. Any kind of solid object over 5 or 6 inches high will hit me hard.
 

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You've got a ladder bar, coil over set up. Looks pretty nice. That's what I'm going to run. The big thing hanging down is the ladder bar crossmember. With all the clearance you got you could redo it. That thing is low. From the pic it looks like it could almost be straight, maybe cut the lower loop off so it wouldn't drag. You would have to support everything, don't want to just whack it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What a straight no BS answer to a question that has bothered me. I can weld pretty decently with a mig it wouldn't be too hard to remove a section of that down low. weld in what could almost be a straight section. All it could do is catch the drive shaft a split second quicker if it cut loose but it would a bit more road worthy on un even pavement. I have not had any issues but for not being able to get in my drive way up the steep angle with out backing in.

The coil overs are in the lowest position. I am going to raise them up to the top position about 3 1/2 " to level the car a little and make it easier to change tires in back. I don't think that will do anything for me as far as raising the under side of the car. Thank you very much, now I know what I should have known all along. I appreciate it.. Gary
 

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Ladder bar, adjustable swing arm system, with coil overs and lateral pan hard bar, you can adjust the pinion angle with the hex nuts at the rear end on the ladder bars. also the diff housing has been trussed, as well the pan hard bar system can be tweaked l/r and f/a, if she seems to crab down the road it can be adjusted out
 

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Like everyone else said, looks like a coil over ladder bar setup. Don't know why that cross member is so low. I know the drive shaft needs some clearance but that is a bit much. I bet the back end was a lot higher when it was set up the first time around.
 

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I would install a panhard bar down the road if it were mine. The diagonal link will bind more, especially on the street. I'd make it as long as I could. This is my personal opinion, but I've found the panhard bar is more forgiving and allows better movement when going over uneven ground. You've got a really nice set up and a very sweet gasser.
 

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Nice ladder bar and coil over set up. I agree with everyone else.. I'm going to have a beer and sit on the back porch and enjoy the rain.. I bid you good health on a job well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would install a panhard bar down the road if it were mine. The diagonal link will bind more, especially on the street. I'd make it as long as I could. This is my personal opinion, but I've found the panhard bar is more forgiving and allows better movement when going over uneven ground. You've got a really nice set up and a very sweet gasser.
vht, I thank you for your advise and I will take it.. I have wanted some understanding of the rear suspension on my car and how to make to most out of it for any situation. Any and all suggestions, ideas, or advise is more than welcomed, and much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice ladder bar and coil over set up. I agree with everyone else.. I'm going to have a beer and sit on the back porch and enjoy the rain.. I bid you good health on a job well done.
noted1017 how about posting your name and letting us use it? I can tell your a straight up Texan and a hell of a nice guy to boot! Gary
 

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Have the same setup on my Austin, but with a panhard bar as VHT mentioned. If you decide to cut the drop out, and go straight across, it wont ever get close to the driveline. The suspension will compress and move away. And shocks will keep it from rising and hitting. But if you cut it, you should sleeve the tubing with smaller tube inside the joint, or solid round stock inside the joint. That will ensure it's all lined up well, and make a super strong repair. I drill holes in 4 places on each side of the joint. Then plug weld the sleeve in, and finally weld the joint. Then it can all be ground smooth, and still be stronger than the original is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Vall that's an excellent idea for fixing that problem right. Great idea of using solid stock or a smaller diameter tube inside. Thanks.
 

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Vall that's an excellent idea for fixing that problem right. Great idea of using solid stock or a smaller diameter tube inside. Thanks.
That's what I used to sleeve my front axle when I narrowed it to fit under my tiny Austin gasser. 12" of round bar pressed into the center, with half of the 12" inside each side of the axle tube. Extra weight, but I felt good adding it.
 
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