Title Question.......

The main thing to do is get tons of documentation. Have the seller agree to give you their info and numbers in case you have issues transferring later. I guess the best would be to have them go with you to the DMV, of course that would probably add to the cost of the vehicle.

I just bought a car with an old title, out of state, and it wasn't transferred to the person I bought it form. Luckily it had been previously registered in my state and all the paperwork was in order.

The worst, now, is if it is from an estate. You need all kinds of notarized documents. PITA.

A bill of sale or notarized release of interest are necessary, at least here, along with a signed title. It used to be easy to get a title on an old car, not any more. Also, they use an Old Car Guide book for tax value, so it really doesn't matter if you got a deal on your car. If the book says that your car in #4 condition is worth $5000 and you got it for $2500, you pay tax on $5k!

Good luck with the transfer... I hope it goes well.

Mike

My car came from Washington, and the previous owner had not changed it to his name, nor had the LeMay museum done any paperwork or title change. Additionally, Oregon requires that all cars titled in other states be inspected prior to titling in Oregon. And the topper was my Austin's VIN number was on the engine, and since I wasn't planning to keep that engine I had more issues to deal with. I did have a bill of sale from the owner dealer in Seattle to the dealer in Oregon, and a bill of sale from the Oregon dealer to me.
I loaded the car and all the paperwork on a trailer and headed to DMV. When I got there I dropped all the paperwork on the counter, and told the guy I wanted to transfer title to me. He grabbed his flashlight and we headed outside. He was pretty excited about seeing an old unusual car, as he said, "I never get to see old cool cars like this!"
After confirming the engine VIN number matched the title I told him about my plans to change engines, so he went back inside and got a new state of Oregon VIN number and applied it to the body in the door frame. He then made up a new title and put the new VIN number on that. Charged me the fees, and away I went!
There was another issue I didn't even mention to the clerk, as I knew it would send him in a tailspin; the year was wrong on the original title. It was marked 1937! Not sure why, but I know of 4 other friends/acquaintances that own Austins here in the USA that ALL have titles that the year is wrong on. Most are off by 7-10 yrs.!!!!! My neighbor's 1948 says 1940 on the title, my '46 reads 1937, andother friend's 1948 says 1938, another I know of is a 1952, and the title reads 1946. Not sure why so many errors, but I wasn't going to rock the boat and stir up trouble as DMV can be enough trouble without any issues.

I live in Georgia and they don't title vehicles 63 and older. Titles are optional for for vehicles 64 to 85. 85 and up you get a title. I purchased a 1926 Essex rat rod a few years ago. I told the seller it was a 29 not a 26. He said he pulled it out of a corn field and built it. When he had it inspected by the dmv in Wisconsin they somehow derived it was a 26. It's now registered in Georgia as a 26. I spoke to a few people about getting it changed and they said whoa! you don't want to go there, leave well enough alone. Probably looking at impound or loss of registration and a big headache. Makes me mad. Oh yeah, they put this little sticker in the door jamb. I want to do the car over soon. I'll probably have to mask off that sticker and sand and paint around it as this is the only thing that relates to the original title from wisconsin.
Ken

My car is listed as a "kit Car" in Minn. In order to get a Mn state title and license I had to produce documentation for the motor, trans and read end plus the mfg statement of origin. then they asked for parts documentation, wheels, tires, brakes and the higher dollar parts. At one point in request for receipts I replied" which of 10 pounds of receipts do you want?" They didn't think it was humorous.

It took 2 inspections and being nice to people who do not deserve to nice to before the final application was ready. Then came tax time. What ever you do don't brag about how much you have spent onthe car. I told them it wasn't really worth much not painted and with no upholstery and in completed. the bottom line was that I had to pay tax on the original "kit" cost which is substantial. However it is the same thing you pay when you but a new car but you really don't see it as it is included in the financing. then It was about $60 for the plates. The title came several months later with a demand for bonding.

This is a simple process. You simply go to a bonding co and pay for the bond value required. This will be about the value of the car at the time. Expect around $3-$400. This bond last for 3 years. Essentially it means that if someone comes up and says that's my motor and I can proove it there will be an investigaqtion and if it is so you will either have to give the motor over or the bond will cover it which ever the judge requires. After 3 years however you can tell the person to buzz off as the statuate of limitations has run out and the car is entirely yours free and clear. The bond goes with the title if you sell the car before the bond runs out. It does not affect the value or saleability of the car.

Getting a state title rather than a streetrod title is good in that it is not restrictive when you operqte the car. Techincaly you can only operate a streetrod titled car goin gto and from events in MN. Guys have be cited for going to the grocery store and to work. Here you must run front and rear plates for a state title. Most of us take the chance that we won't get stopped and leave the front plate under the seat. Mine has a badly damaged bracket attached to it too. maybe I could get by but if not it is about $150 fine. The cops are pretty good with us here if you are not acting crazy. Loud mufflers and blowers sticking out of the hood are looked over. I've had the troopers follow me for miles while they check ot the license and title. City cops have stopped along side me many times and waved at me.

The bottom line is be sure you get very good receipts for everything...names address phone numbers and part identification numbers. If you have steel stuff make sure the frame and body numbers match. You may have to toss one or the other if not, there is not a good way around it. Don't play games with purchased titles...you could wind up having the car impounded for good.

I was told by an appraiser that my MN title added about 5 grand to the value of the car as it is saleable anywhere easily. It's worth the trouble in my mind.