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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 51 Dodge B coupe I'm building will be hard enough to work on now, with the extra height of a straight axle it'll be a real pain. So I figure it'd be better to go on and make my steal front a tilt. Anybody got and pics? I want this to be a 1 man deal, so it looks like I'm going to have to make it slide forward and then tilt. I've got a couple ideas but I'd like to see some others. Anyone have a body style like mine that they have converted to tilt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also, with the weight of a steel front end, do you use some type of shock to help lift the front end?
 

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Both of my cars have steel tilt frontends. The Austin is tiny and light, so easy to tilt. The Falcon is much larger, but once it was stripped down to just fenders and hood, it wasn't that heavy. Easily carried by two people, and easy to tilt by myself. I reinforced mine with tubing to stiffen it, and built a toggle link at the tilt pivot to allow it to move forward 5" before it tilts. I have two grab handles below the grille to lift and toggle it forward. Then I simply grab the opening of the hood scoop and tilt it easily.
I used mini truck hood latches to keep the Austin hood closed. On the Falcon I have a pair of rubber Jeep hood latches hidden inside the fenders to hold it down. I have tailgate cables from a small pickup truck attached on both cars to stop the tilt at the point it's fully open. No struts needed to assist.
 

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If I remember correctly the hood on the Plymouth weights a ton, really heavy gauge metal as well as the fenders, and I believe that the front fenders arch under the car so you will have to split the fender witch you have to do in most cases, the front fenders are very large, I did see a set up that used alloy channel at the front with rollers on it at the pivot point that allowed the front section to roll forward and up, still looked like a 2 man lift job, once you pull it apart you can figure out how much it weighs. and you can add lift rods if needed at a later date
 

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Lift rods and sliding forward will be a tough combination too engineer! Once it pivots or slides forward, it wont have interference issues with the fender drops, but I still like them cut and affixed to the car to give clearance to the engine bay when open. I cut both of my fender drops, just for that reason. I bang my noggin enough already, so having to duck the fender drop wasn't what I wanted.
Even a heavy frontend isn't bad. You'd be surprised how little effort is needed to tilt, vs. lift a heavy object. It's really just getting it started up that even takes some effort, and after that it just gets easier as it tilts open. I had more concern about stopping it at fully open, and the tailgate cables do an excellent job of doing that.
 

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I did the slide thing on mine and it was a PITA to engineer but I am glad that I did. It would have been a lot easier to cut the rear part of the fenders like Vall's cars! I like how simple his Falcon is but I couldn't get that to work with how big the '55 front end is.

Here's a video of mine in action.

You can see more on my thread here => http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41043

Good luck on yours. Any pics on what you have that might help with the discussion?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
mt94ss, there is a pic of my Dodge in the build section. 51 Dodge build. I couldn't view your video. I watched some gasser videos and couldn't view some of those. Don't know why, maybe something on my end I screwed up. I've considered cutting the fenders, right now I'm on hold until I see if I get the 40 chev. Either way, there will be a tilt front. Trying to work on these cars is a pain, plus that hood is a killer on the head.
 

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Piece of cake Vall the lift rods mount on the slide assembly, they move with the front section, not hard to do but you do have to give it some thought, you may still have to do the fender cut depends on the length of the lower panel and how far you are able to slide forward every car diffenent
 

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Yes, if the rods attach to the slide mechanism, then attachment points are limited. Plus they are another item that needs to clear the engine and headers while making it all work. Having the struts so close to the pivot point also makes them not assist as much, so that's another issue. Not that it can't be done, but it's certainly not easy and adds more hurdles to overcome that usually aren't needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've come up with an idea, hope it works. Haven't got any pics. It involves 2 bearings on each side, 2 pieces of bar stk, 3/4 or 1 in. I'll going to try and put the pivot point back where it'll make it easier tilting like was mentioned. Another winter project.
 
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