Gasser HotRod Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently picked an '84 Mustang for the 5.0 engine, AOD trans, and Traction-Loc rear end, they were pretty nice, the body was a rusted mess.

I want to back-date the engine to look like a 289. Just want the engine to look like it belongs in the car that it's destined for. I have the valve covers, intake, headers, "V" belt pulleys, most of that sort of stuff already. It's the distributor that might be a problem however.

I have a distributor from a '67 289, which is going to get a Pertronix ignition set-up, but I'm not sure if it will fit/work correctly in the newer '84 5.0.

The drive gear is no problem as the 5.0 has a standard (not roller) cam in it, but I read somewhere that the older Ford distributors (one from a '67 for instance) aren't long enough to engage gears. The casing/shaft is too short I guess.

I was wondering if anyone had any info/links/knowledge on this? Did I "hear" wrong or am I doomed?

Kinda lost here, wasn't at all aware of the difference.

HELP ! ! !

Thanks,

T
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,524 Posts
Looks like it will fit.
Here's what I do when I have this sort of question. I just typed in "302 Ford distributor" at Summit's site. Then when it came up I clicked on "application" and "show all" and it shows the same distributor used from 1962-2001. Fits everything from a 221 V8 to the 302 V8. It may be that the 351 has two different distributors, or uses a different one and wont interchange.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850021/applications/make/ford?prefilter=1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's just what I did ! I thought that I was safe and sound, you know? I also thought that I was kind of clever in buying and rebuilding an original old Ford distributor rather than grabbing a "new" one from my FLAPS. It was only when I caught the end of a post on one of the Mustang forums suggesting that the OP ought to check the length of his distributor body/shaft that I got scared and shot over here. Thanks for the "double-check" and re-assurance that I'm not making a mistake in this engine conversion. I'm having a bit of fun with this 302 back-dating thing though, I bought the old 289 bits and pieces, painted everything that neat Ford blue, reproduced the stickers and decals on my computer, even carved an "OK" stamp to use on the valve cover from a big rubber eraser.

I want it to look as though someone pulled a 289 out of his parent's station wagon and dropped it right into his car, as-is.

Anyway, thanks very much for the post and re-assurance ! I'm really juggling things that I shouldn't even be touching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,464 Posts
That's how we all learn Tom. Keep on the juggling.
Mario
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you Mario ! Sometimes it seems like it's no longer a hobby though, so much problem solving and so little knowledge or skill. Were it not for forums and folks here, and a very small handful of others, I would be lost. And the forums make it seem so easy at first, until I hear just a whisper and fall into doubt.

I couldn't work my way back to the post that originally caused me to doubt, but now I DO believe that it was in reference to a 351. I dug up a Mallory distributor for a 351 M from down cellar and it's super long compared to the one that I bought for the 5.0.

Anyway, back on track I guess, i think that I'll stick with the body work for now, worry about the mechanicals later on this Summer. The body work is relaxing and rewarding and something that I can handle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,464 Posts
Very cool Tom. You found your nitch.
Have fun with it. Unfortunately my ford experience is minimal.
Sorry buddy
Mario
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Tom:
Don't worry,your 67 distributor is a nice choice for a vintage look,and the Pertronix kit is a great addition.
The 351W is the longer distributor,all the 289/302 stuff is the same length.
I can't remember if the 84 has the dipstick in the side of the block above the pan rail or not,but if you really want it to look like a 289you will end up changing out the timing cover for an early one with the cast-in timing pointer anyway,and the early ones all have a provision for the dipstick tube.
A nice set of repro 289 HiPo chrome valve covers will really help with the look,and they really take it to a level above the generic parts-store tall chrome valve covers.
A 289 HiPo repro air cleaner and repro filter element go a long way toward making it look really period correct too.
Some really snobby guys might whine cause the HiPo had no vacuum advance on the distributor,but if somebody gives you the gears about something like that on an otherwise nice car,they need to get a life:)
When I get home I will post up some pictures of my 5.0L that I have disguised as a 225hp 289....The Holley carb is a dead give away,but I just didn't have the time,or room in the budget to find and build a good 1.12" Autolite 4100 carb.Maybe next year:)

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
"When I get home I will post up some pictures of my 5.0L that I have disguised as a 225hp 289...."

Oh, MAN ! ! ! Please do ! I'd be in your debt for sure. It seems like you've already accomplished what I'm hoping for. I'd really just LOVE to see what you've done with the 5.0. I'm already expecting a bunch of nay-sayers so I'm getting ready for it. No matter what level of success I reach, I'm having such fun with this and it just seems like the best thing to do with the 5.0; especially as the car is an old one and a straight up 5.0 would look a bit out of place in it.

Thanks for responding !

T
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,524 Posts
The internet is a great thing, and it sure makes finding answers much easier. But I've also found that I need to sort through the answers and it takes time to weed out the bad answers, and figure out which are correct. The nice thing about some forums is the quality of the responses. I like the replies I've gotten here, as it seems those who know will answer, and those who might guess wont. On some forums I've posted a question and gotten a lot of replies, but some replies seem to be people who just want to answer every question, and either don't really apply to my question, or are incorrect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh my ! ! Not to turn this thread into a chat room, but you couldn't be more correct, and someone like me REALLY relies on accurate info and answers as I'm pretty much a major novice in all of this.

I admittedly know almost nothing, but I'm anxious to learn and follow directions to the letter.

Not terribly long ago, I had an idea that maybe lever shocks might work well up front. I liked that they could be made adjustable by using different weight shock oil and seemed like a neat answer to my problem. In the end, I ended up with the shocks meant for the 60'sy Dodge Darts with the torsion bar(s) front suspension. They were perfect.

The lever shocks had two capped holes on top, one large, one small. I wanted to know which one, large or small, was the fill hole and posted the question. I got everything but the answer, from look in the manual (WHAT manual?) to advice on unbolting them from the frame (WHAT frame?) Just wanted to know which cap to remove. It was as though I'd asked for a brownie recipe and kept getting directions on how to stitch a base ball or adjust a gun sight. Just SO very frustration that I kinda flipped out, but couldn't get anyone to understand my dilemma. It just got worse.

Anyway . . . I very much appreciate the help with this question/concern as well all the rest of my stupid questions. I'm actually making progress, and today my request for a title went sailing on through the RMV ! !

Thanks !

T
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,524 Posts
Well not to get too OT, but most of the old lever shocks use the large hole to fill, and small hole as a bleeder for rebound. If you're looking at the newer ones like MG's used, then I'm fairly certain they do the same. Fill through the large holes; then open the bleed hole and work the arm back and forth to get the air out, and refill through the large hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
These aren't very good pictures,as it was pretty dark in the shop when I shot them,one valve cover is off,the red MSD distributor cap is just sitting loose with wires everywhere (when I get the distributor back the black cap is going on,so it won't stick out like a sore thumb.
I left one valve cover off,just to show that with a spacer,the stock covers will clear roller rockers,and I put some resto decals on the painted aftermarket air cleaner.
I promise I will post some clearer photos once I get the distributor back and get the motor buttoned up for good.

Scott
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
That's also a painted Edelbrock Performer RPM intake under there.....it looks pretty close to stock.Good enough to fool the Chevy guys after I ground all the lettering off the #1 intake runner,then roughed it up with a pneumatic scaling gun to match the texture of the rest of the cast iron parts.
After you get it decked out with a few convincing details,like a correct black valve cover breather,with a resto decal on it,it will look just like a 289.
Really,the essential items are:
- 65-66 289 valve covers (available new from NPD or other resto supply sources)
- 289 timing cover and dipstick (see above)
- 65-66 alternator mounting hardware and alternator
- a performance dual plane intake that's NOT an air gap style....they're just too modern
- an Autolite 4100 4 barrel carb is the icing on the cake.I would search for the 1.12" Venturi version from a 390; they are only 600cfm and work great on 302's.Guys who want to argue about the Superstock cars that run 10's with the stock 1.08" carb are forgetting something:Those guys are stuck with that carb due to the rules.If they could run the 1.12" carb,you can bet your life they would.
- air cleaner: mine doesn't look very convincing,but you can get a stock 65-66 289 Mustang or Falcon air cleaner,then go to work with your holesaw on the underside to allow more airflow,and even cut breathing holes in the backside near the firewall where nobody sees them.
- 289 Hi-Po headers are a very stealthy way to go,but they are pretty expensive for the performance they offer.I would personally go with a good set of headers.Shop around at local speed shops for ones with nice,thick flanges.My MAC headers are really nice,with super thick flanges,quality welds and construction,and ball and socket collectors,which aren't great for performance,but sure make installation a breeze.They did have some clearance issues I had to correct with the clutch linkage though.
You should NOT use the stock exhaust manifolds for ANY reason if you are trying to build a performance engine.If you're going to run those,you might as well run 1-7/8" single exhaust and a 2 barrel carb too,cause they are completely useless in a performance application.
- colors: pick up a few cans of the correct shade of Ford blue from your local parts store or speed shop.Some companies produce a hokey looking "Ford Blue" that ISN'T.Avoid those ones that are too light in color.They lousy look wrong,and throw the entire project off kilter.
Or,you could go the route that I went,and do it black and gold,like a 65 motor.They look super sharp,and most guys didn't even realize Ford made black and gold engines at one time,so they get a lot of attention and questions when you pop the hood.:)
-decals: Make sure to get the repro air cleaner,Autolite spark plug,maintenance interval decal for v/c breather,etc decals to make it look period correct.Little details like that really sell it.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
YES ! ! ! ! That's just what I'm shooting for, but expect to fall well short of my goal. Still, as close as I can come is going to be SO much better than a recognizable 302 lump just siting there looking for a Fox Body to come by so that it can jump aboard.

You've really hit the mark with your engine, from those pictures, folks would be completely taken in by the masquerade ! ! !

I found some later valve covers, probably from a '69 or so, but they look semi-convincingly old in Ford blue, same with the air cleaner. I have an early alternator and bracket, have to either get the right timing cover or a truck water pump (I don't remember the year) in order to use the V-belt and have it turn in the right direction. As I mentioned, I couldn't resist running white long tube headers, the saving grace is that they were from an old Falcon Gasser so there's a slight history there. I have a stock early distributor and a Pertronix for it, but I just scooped up an Accel distributor and coil along with a set of yellow Accel wires. The wrong era, but they look pretty neat.

I think in the end, especially as the engine is going into a small British car rather than a vintage Mustang or Fairlane, I'm going to let myself fudge things a bit and kind of shoot for a semi-convincing illusion rather than a detail correct masquerade. Hopefully it will still carry the day, but I don't have the skills or budget yet to go all the way successfully.

Maybe I'll post a few picks of what I've managed to acomplish so far, but you have to pretend that I did well and be kind, OK?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Those Power By Ford valve covers look great,the white headers will have a great classic look,and the Accel distributor and coil will give it kind of a legit "built for go,not for show",all business sort of look.
Can't wait to see a few pics!
I will post some of mine once it's completely assembled ad the distributor is back in it.I re-did my valve covers and they turned out much nicer.Just got the front of the motor apart chasing an annoying water leak at the moment,so it doesn't look like much.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Tommy Boy:
Here are a few of the decals I was talking about....you can just pick a specific year out of the NPD catalog and get the batch of them for about $20, and they sure do go a long way toward "selling it". :)

Now I just have to get it to run again...lol

Scott
 

Attachments

1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top