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If you don’t abort this loop connection fiasco im gonna come there and buy every steel line in the state to put a stop to this insanity. 😜🤣🤪

seriously please don’t run steel line direct from the firewall to the carbs.
Does your motor have a ground cable to the cab and or frame. I was wondering if the motor is seeking ground through the braided line to the firewall. It’s a far out thought but you have been plagued with this leak issue. I got nothin. I have hoses on my 1st build from 2009. The second build from 2015 and neither have leaked. Nylon insert Russel hose and summit braided line is what I used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #442 ·
I drew up a diagram with how I planned to run the steel lines and all the SS fittings I was going to need. I went on line and totaled what it was going to cost and said screw this. Went into the garage and dug out my box of brass fittings. I had everything I need to run rubber hose including the length I had left over from when I did the Willys. That rubber hose has been on there 5/6 years without issue. It might not look as good as the braided line but at least it hasn't deteriorated.
 

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I drew up a diagram with how I planned to run the steel lines and all the SS fittings I was going to need. I went on line and totaled what it was going to cost and said screw this. Went into the garage and dug out my box of brass fittings. I had everything I need to run rubber hose including the length I had left over from when I did the Willys. That rubber hose has been on there 5/6 years without issue. It might not look as good as the braided line but at least it hasn't deteriorated.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍😀
You might even consider fuel injection high pressure hose.
 
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👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍😀
You might even consider fuel injection high pressure hose.
I use very little hose, but when I do it's the heavier fuel injection hose. Expensive at local parts stores, but I bought it online about 10 years ago in a 15 ft. roll for $15, and free shipping. It was $3.35 a ft. at Autozone back then.
 

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I use very little hose, but when I do it's the heavier fuel injection hose. Expensive at local parts stores, but I bought it online about 10 years ago in a 15 ft. roll for $15, and free shipping. It was $3.35 a ft. at Autozone back then.
Be careful with future purchases. I noticed one I found was not compatible with ethanol and methanol. Now I’m concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #446 ·
I found this on Amazon today and the description pretty much covers everything. A 10 foot section was on sale with a 20% discount and free shipping so I'm giving it a shot.
  • WIDE APPLICATION ◀ The 6an fuel line is specially designed to meet SAE 30R7 standard and can be compatible with any fuel (including methanol and nitromethane), oil,E85, E10, coolant, brake, transmission, clutch, diesel, hydraulic fluid, pump gas, and nitrous oxide.
 

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Is it this type? I’m thinking that the 6 AN may not be a universal fit to your fittings if you use the fittings. In the past I have found that Summit racing doesn’t fit the lines that Russell sells and also my local Speed shop has their own brand and they’re all slightly different. Some fit tighter than others. Either way it’s worth the try.

 

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When I ordered the hose I specifically ordered hose compatible with ethanol as that was after my regular rubber hose had sprung leaks like Steve's braided hose did after only two years. Walked into the garage one day and was hit with a big whiff of gas smell! Looked under the Austin's gas tank and a short piece of hose about 6" long was leaking like it was sponge! The gas had softened it so badly it was porous!
 

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Discussion Starter · #449 ·
I got the new fuel line today and went with the KISS principle. It definitely doesn't look as nice as braided line or hard lines but it is WAY cheaper. I didn't have any of the right size brackets to attach the hose to the firewall and will be picking some up tomorrow.
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I've got 2 brass fittings that I've modified for a tight 90 degree bend coming out of the secondary fuel inlet that I ave to take to a shop to get silver brazed. Some things I'm willing to pay for and this is one because I don't want the fitting leaking due to a bad joint or breaking because of to much heat. I'll get a photo up after I find somewhere that can do what I need done.
 

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Nice Steve. Now you can go pound the pavement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #451 ·
I'd been thinking about the two fittings I modified in order to have them tig welded together and just wasn't all that nuts about how the finished piece would work ie. would the weld not leak and also would it not break from engine vibration etc. I spent some time on line today and actually found the fitting I needed, couldn't believe someone makes it. It's going to give me even a bit more room for fuel line clearance than the modified pieces would have. A bit pricey (I don't imagine they sell to many) but still cheaper than I would have have paid to a welding shop.

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looks like a nice piece. Its tough searching for stuff like that. glad you found it. I like the black hose look on the 53. looks old school. The braided look is too much bling sometimes. I would rather have the nostalgia look. I missed that when I did mine. It might look nice with braid and AN fittings but old school is cool.
 
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I'm also not crazy about braided lines. Did hard lines on my Austin and the Falcon, but gave in and did braided on my '39, but used black line and fittings. With just a single dual feed carb there's not a lot of it, but if it ever fails I'll bend up hard line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #454 ·
looks like a nice piece. Its tough searching for stuff like that. glad you found it. I like the black hose look on the 53. looks old school. The braided look is too much bling sometimes. I would rather have the nostalgia look. I missed that when I did mine. It might look nice with braid and AN fittings but old school is cool.
Thanks Mario; sometimes putting makeup on a pig doesn't achieve anything. You're right about "old school"; if anything, my 53 is definitely old school. If this line starts leaking it''ll be so much easier to replace the faulty line.
 

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Lets hope that rubber line that is ethanol and methanol capable will last a good amount of time. (y):cool:
PS, THAT IS NO PIG MY HOTROD FRIEND
 

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Discussion Starter · #456 ·
I ended up needing 2 of those fittings so I had to order another and wait for delivery. Both sides are done now and you can see the 90 degree fittings on both carbs and they were life savers. Clean, simple and done!

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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
Yes Dave, there is a pcv valve, you just can't see it. The back of the manifold has a knock out circular piece which accepts a basket that has a wire mesh insert that acts as an oil strainer
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I purchased this piece
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cut off the nipple, drilled the plate for a pcv grommet, inserted a pcv valve and bolted it to the manifold. Then I drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" npt for a male/female elbow. Put a 1/4" nipple in and used a very short section of 3/8 hose running straight down to connect the 2 fittings together. It's really well hidden in the back of motor which is why you can't see it.
I did the same thing with my Willys. It's got an early sbc block in it with the breather vent in the back of the block and the baffle bolted to the lifter valley. I used a brass freeze plug that fit the block with a nipple in it and used a piece of hose with an inline pcv valve to connect it to the large vacuum port on the back of the carb. This setup is also not visible when looking at the motor. It makes for a really clean installation.
 

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I ended up needing 2 of those fittings so I had to order another and wait for delivery. Both sides are done now and you can see the 90 degree fittings on both carbs and they were life savers. Clean, simple and done!

View attachment 108726
Looks great Steve. Old school and functional too. You hit a home Run. Glad it all worked out ok.
 

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Yes Dave, there is a pcv valve, you just can't see it. The back of the manifold has a knock out circular piece which accepts a basket that has a wire mesh insert that acts as an oil strainer View attachment 108727


I purchased this piece View attachment 108728 cut off the nipple, drilled the plate for a pcv grommet, inserted a pcv valve and bolted it to the manifold. Then I drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4" npt for a male/female elbow. Put a 1/4" nipple in and used a very short section of 3/8 hose running straight down to connect the 2 fittings together. It's really well hidden in the back of motor which is why you can't see it.
I did the same thing with my Willys. It's got an early sbc block in it with the breather vent in the back of the block and the baffle bolted to the lifter valley. I used a brass freeze plug that fit the block with a nipple in it and used a piece of hose with an inline pcv valve to connect it to the large vacuum port on the back of the carb. This setup is also not visible when looking at the motor. It makes for a really clean installation.
Now that is creative ingenuity!
 
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