[mmhotrod]

That's an interesting "rule" that from my experience isn't true across the board. I had solid motor mounts and a solid trans mount (4 speed) in my 64 Chevelle. When I sold the Chevelle as I roller I put the 350 motor and trans in a 67 Camaro I got. Never had any problems in either vehicle.

Not even the yoke seal leaked? Wait a minute, did this trans have fluid in it. Why I oughtta. Lol

 

[Morris Munster]

I use to own a 1953 Ford Mainline...took the 215cid out after it grenaded and installed a 223 out of a Ford Galaxie, milled head.. decked block.. bigger valves.. offenhauser dual intake.. split manifold.. Miss that car.. '53 was 1st year for overhead valve and last year for flat head I believe.

 

[1946Austin]

That's an interesting "rule" that from my experience isn't true across the board. I had solid motor mounts and a solid trans mount (4 speed) in my 64 Chevelle. When I sold the Chevelle as I roller I put the 350 motor and trans in a 67 Camaro I got. Never had any problems in either vehicle.

Don't recall where I read that Steve, but I've always used rubber or urethane trans mounts, and didn't "test" this theory myself to see if a solid trans mount would work?

 

[Morris Munster]

Don't recall where I read that Steve, but I've always used rubber or urethane trans mounts, and didn't "test" this theory myself to see if a solid trans mount would work?

I think a solid mount will eventually crack the transmission case unless you have a trans cross member that flexes considerably. A solid trans mount has no advantage. All the engine torque is transfered through the solid engine mounts / engine plates.

 

[sbauman2]

I picked up my new drive shaft this morning and installed it, no problems. I got most of the wiring done, the speed sensor, the wiring to the in/out solenoid and wiring to the foot switch just needs the hot line connected. I went with a big foot switch because I didn't want to be searching around with my foot looking for a small switch

 

[mmhotrod]

Very nice. Now I know why the shaft cost so much. Slip joint and shaft in one. The drive unit yoke is right up against the seal and doesnt move, so I’m thinking that’s why you need the one on the shaft. Will it stand the wrath of the big block?

 

[sbauman2]

Mario,
The drive unit yoke is bolted to the output shaft. I never realized it until I unpacked the unit. When I got it, all I did was open the box, looked at the contents (saw the yoke all the way in and just thought it was a slip yoke that was pushed all the way in for shipping) closed the box and shoved it under my bench for a (much) later date. So when I finally installed it I was a bit surprised to see that. Obviously I knew I was going to have the drive shaft shortened but certainly didn't expect what I ran into. As for the punishment the 428, 4:56 gears and full spool will be dishing out to it, the driveshaft shop said the new set up will easily handle up to 600 HP but as we all know; nothing is ever really bulletproof. The old shaft definitely had years of abuse and suffered some damage so this one I probably won't worry to much about.
I did find a really cool OD indicator light that I've ordered.

 

[sbauman2]

If you're reading this Santa I'd really like this is my stocking

Ford Fe 427 Algon injection | eBay

<p>Ford Fe 427 Algon injection. Has been glassbeaded and cleaned up for display, to be used I think the hoses are original so they would have to be replaced because they have deteriorated. Simone did modify it with what looks like a drill back in the day going down next to the intake Bolt holes...

www.ebay.com

 

[sbauman2]

So I went outside to hook up the last bit of wiring and it didn't happen. Right now at 3:00 pm it's 95 degrees and probably 100-105 inside the car under the dash; screw it, the wiring can wait!!

 

[sbauman2]

0

 

[1946Austin]

So I went outside to hook up the last bit of wiring and it didn't happen. Right now at 3:00 pm it's 95 degrees and probably 100-105 inside the car under the dash; screw it, the wiring can wait!!

You poor guy. Send some of that heat up here!

 

[sbauman2]

Right now at 8:30am it's 65 degrees and not supposed to get in the 90s today so I should be able to get in the car and finish the wiring. We're having our annual "chemical round up" here today between 9 & 11 that I don't want to miss, I've got a 5 gal. bucket of old carb cleaner and a 5 gal. bucket of parts cleaner I want to get rid of so I'm off to do that first.

 

[mmhotrod]

Ha did I remind you of that on my post. Lol

 

[sbauman2]

AN UPDATE
I think half the city was there today dropping off chemical waste. I just got home and it's 91 in the shade, probably 95-96 in the direct sunlight where the car is parked. The weatherman lied again. So I'm off for a motorcycle ride down Pacific Coast Highway for some lunch somewhere; maybe I'll get to it tomorrow morning since I have no where to be.

 

[manicmechanic]

If you're reading this Santa I'd really like this is my stocking

Ford Fe 427 Algon injection | eBay

<p>Ford Fe 427 Algon injection. Has been glassbeaded and cleaned up for display, to be used I think the hoses are original so they would have to be replaced because they have deteriorated. Simone did modify it with what looks like a drill back in the day going down next to the intake Bolt holes...

www.ebay.com

Neet setup. but the questions are Where the timing cover, fuel pump and cam to pump hook up? I know. Had to spoil your day with that.

 

[1946Austin]

Wouldn't work on the street anyway, as those were great injection units for wide open throttle, but not much for driving around town.

 

[manicmechanic]

Wouldn't work on the street anyway, as those were great injection units for wide open throttle, but not much for driving around town.

No sense of adventure.

 

[1946Austin]

No sense of adventure.

Plenty of sense of adventure. But have known a couple guys who tried stack injection for the street and it didn't work out well. First having to squirt fuel in the stacks to start it; so you need a squirt bottle of gas hauled around in the car. Then the issue of it not wanting to be driven easy as you would other street induction systems.
The only way to make it work well is have it converted to electronic control so it's more manageable, and that costs moree than the injection system.

 

[Road Angels]

You have to scholl down to the description...says it comes with naked chick with squirt bottle...lol

 

[sbauman2]

FOR MARIO
I should listen to my own advice about checking basics first. When I got home from my ride yesterday I decided to finish the wiring. I get it all done and it's not working; the shift solenoid isn't getting energised. I did a little trouble shooting but it was getting dark so I quit for the day. Went out this morning and started back in. I checked, double checked and triple checked everything; even replaced the relay, and nothing; the solenoid still wasn't getting any juice. I connected a hot line direct to the solenoid and it clicked, WTF. I'm laying there, on my back thinking I've really gone completely senile. As I'm looking at my terminal block (the photo was taken after I built it but hadn't installed it yet)

something catches my eye, I hadn't connected a jumper wire to the terminal that feeds the relay (don't ask me why), you can see it missing from the 4th relay from the left where the yellow wire connects to the terminal block. I made a short jumper, installed it and wolah, it worked!! I filled the unit up with the recommended ATF and took it for a short ride around the block; it's very cool. I do need to hook up the OD indicator light I got though. The owners manual recommends not having the OD engaged under 20mph. In case you're wondering the relay on the right is one that isn't needed yet so I never wired it.