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Discussion Starter · #361 · (Edited)
Hi Mario, thanks for the thought but unfortunately the 429 and 460 parts are not interchangeable with the FE parts. I never understood why the manifold manufacturers never made a tunnel ram for the FE of which there were a bizillion made but went ahead with the 429 & 460. PSE offered a set up where you purchase an adaptor that bolts to the FE heads then you use a tunnel ram manifold for a 351 Cleveland and bolt it to the adaptor. They come up once in a great while and bring stupid money.
Here's a photo of the adaptor and one with what looks like a possible injection set up.


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I am fortunate that I was able to get a Ford, not a Dove repop, Tunnel Wedge factory manifold that really works well.
 

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Sorry, I didn't know that. I have a lot to learn about ford hot rodding. Sounds to me they did a lot of leap frogging from block to block over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #364 ·
You're so right about all the different engines Mario. Like I said though I've never understood the deal with none of the aftermarket people offering a tunnel ram for the FE; God knows there were hundreds running in just about every class.
 

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You're so right about all the different engines Mario. Like I said though I've never understood the deal with none of the aftermarket people offering a tunnel ram for the FE; God knows there were hundreds running in just about every class.
I wonder if someone did a patent and the design was locked up in legalities. that would snuff out the flame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #366 ·
I FINALLY STUCK IT IN!!
No Lash you pervert, not what you're thinking!! We've been having beautiful weather and I figured after way to many years of having the Gear Venders unit taking up space to get it installed. I won't go into all the problems I ran into just in getting things ready but I almost said the hell with it. Anyway it took most of the day but it's finally in. I haven't checked yet but it looks like I'm able to use the the old rear trans crossmember which will save some work. I do need to fabricate a cross brace for the very rear of the unit to add some additional support for the overdrive housing that's bolted to the end of the GV tailshaft housing (you'll see what I'm talking about in the photos), relocate and modify the driveshaft hoop, make new mounts for the ladder bars and hook up the in/out switch; but hey, it's in. The unit is set up with a beefy Spicer bolted in drive shaft yoke so there's no slip yoke. Since the driveshaft has to be shortened about 14" the driveline shop is going to install a slip yoke. I wasn't expecting that so there's an additional $200 for that work but it's worth it because I wouldn't even know how to begin a modification like that.

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Looks good..at 4 bucks a gallon just the gas savings in a short while will pay for the slip yoke, dont forget the fluid.....speaking of pervents...I just had 3 young women look at my skinny ass while a camera was being shoved up my ass...I bet it made them fear their husbands getting old and wanting sex..whats that hanging down from the bottom of your gown, its my balls.........lol...oh yea it is on its way..it is bad ass
 

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Wow how cool is that. Is the cross brace going to be rubber mounted To lessen vibration. I had a solid mount on my automatic shake the tailhousing loose and leak fluid. I love that unit.
 

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That's a great upgrade Steve, and you'll love it when you hit the freeways and shift it into OD! And your big FE will really thank you for it too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #370 ·
Well hell, it appears that my driveshaft wasn't up to the task of my burnouts. I got a call from the driveline place letting me know that when they were checking it prior to cutting they discovered that it had begun to twist. I've sort of always thought it was a bit on the small diameter side and I should be happy that it was discovered before it completely twisted on me and the damage it could have caused. I guess the $550 to have a new one built is cheaper than what the potential damage would have cost. It's going to be a 4" tube, beefyer u-joint ears and solid u-joints rather than the ones with zerk fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #371 ·
That's a great upgrade Steve, and you'll love it when you hit the freeways and shift it into OD! And your big FE will really thank you for it too!
You're right about that Vall. The GV unit will drop my 4:56 gears down to 3:56 for a very liveable cruising rpm.
 

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Good thing you had it checked. That torque monster can do some quick damage.
 
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You're right about that Vall. The GV unit will drop my 4:56 gears down to 3:56 for a very liveable cruising rpm.
So what are you doing now at an idle? 60mph? Lol
 
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$550 well spent...loop or no loop a drive shaft that lets go can make a real mess
 

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Discussion Starter · #375 ·
I've saved myself $100, temporarily. Of course it figures the speed sensor for the Autometer speedo I had in the Ford tailshaft housing won't work with the GV unit. I go on the Autometer web site to find the one I need and as I'm looking at it and the price, $106, I think to myself, "self, don't you have a new one of those for the Willys that you haven't installed yet?" I go out to the garage and sure enough I find the box with the part!!
 

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I've saved myself $100, temporarily. Of course it figures the speed sensor for the Autometer speedo I had in the Ford tailshaft housing won't work with the GV unit. I go on the Autometer web site to find the one I need and as I'm looking at it and the price, $106, I think to myself, "self, don't you have a new one of those for the Willys that you haven't installed yet?" I go out to the garage and sure enough I find the box with the part!!
You have a parts heaven too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #377 ·
Wow how cool is that. Is the cross brace going to be rubber mounted To lessen vibration. I had a solid mount on my automatic shake the tailhousing loose and leak fluid. I love that unit.
Mario, with very minimal modification I was able to reuse the brace with the rubber tailshaft mount. Thanks for the heads up though because I was going to make it solid mount since I have solid motor mounts. It also looks like I don't need to build a mount for the OD unit as the manual says "don't".
 

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Mario, with very minimal modification I was able to reuse the brace with the rubber tailshaft mount. Thanks for the heads up though because I was going to make it solid mount since I have solid motor mounts. It also looks like I don't need to build a mount for the OD unit as the manual says "don't".
Good deal. I’m glad what I wrote made you think. I don’t like to act like a cocky know it all. Sometimes I regret writing my opinion. My turbo 400 was solid mounted and the tail shaft bolts came loose and leaked fluid all over my underside. I vowed to never do that again.
 
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The "rule" I read somewhere years ago was you can use solid motor mounts with a rubber, or poly trans mount, or use rubber or poly at engine and trans. But it went on to say to never use a solid trans mount regardless of what motor mounts you chose.
Both of my cars have solid motor mounts, but urethane trans mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #380 ·
That's an interesting "rule" that from my experience isn't true across the board. I had solid motor mounts and a solid trans mount (4 speed) in my 64 Chevelle. When I sold the Chevelle as I roller I put the 350 motor and trans in a 67 Camaro I got. Never had any problems in either vehicle.
 
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