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Bet in California can can no long have that plate with the word white....
 

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Discussion Starter #342
So I

hope I'm not posting this to soon. Everyday since I got the car running again when I'd check the radiator it's needed some water so I'd put some in and check the oil for signs of water and there'd be none. Finally today when I checked it the level was right up at the top; I guess it just took a lot of time to purge itself. It also appears that the small amount of water that was in the oil system has been expelled as steam because there's no more vapors coming from the valve cover breathers, whew........................... I had it idiling for about 15 minutes today and the temp got up to 185 which is good news because there is a group of hot rodders who want to do a cruise tomorrow of the homes of an Army and Marine vet who both have the virus. I guess I can always take the Willys though.
 

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Sounds like you got it Steve. Have some fun and take her out on the cruise. Just check your carb spring return or bring extra diapers. Like i will tonight. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #344
It's the

little things that'll kill your motor. I had the 53 out today, the weather was hot 95 degrees, but the car's been running cooler since I got the heads done. I take a look at my temp gauge and it's up to 235 and I'm like WTF. My first thought was a slipped or broken belt but the volt meter is showing 14 volts. I pull over to check it and the fans aren't working. I check the circuit breaker with the fuel pump and it's fine ditto the relay so then I flip the 2 way switch from the sensor to manual on and the fans come on so I'm figuring a bad sensor as Val and I both commented on having problems with. When I get home and let the motor cool down I pull the sensor out and replace it with a new spare and it still doesn't work, turns out it's a bad 2 way switch!!!!!:mad: At least I had a spare new one in my 12 volt electric box of parts.
Yep, no lie; if it's got wheels or tits it'll give you trouble. :(
 

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235 is a scary number Steve. I’m glad you caught that and were able to use the 2nd position to manual mode so you could get home. That happened to me too before I finished my setup in the MG. I had poor cooling in my case and not a fan fail. Is your switch tripping the negative on the relay or direct to sensor and ground causing a load and burn on the switch? Reason I ask is because I have yet to loose a switch that is a ground to a negative trigger 30 amp relay.
 

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I have relays on both of my cars, but I also have override switches that are direct current carrying switches when I need to override if a relay or sensor fails. I don't think in today's world of poor quality parts we can afford to not have a way to bypass critical systems like the cooling fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #347
Mario

Mine's wired with the power going to the fans through a relay and 20 amp circuit breaker. The two way switch, typical 125/250 vac 20 amp, is one side goes to a chassis ground and the other side to the sensor.
 

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I have mine wired direct 12 v. positive to the fans, and ground switched through the relay contacts. Same thing, just a different side of the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #349
To hopefully

eliminate this problem from happening again I ordered a miniature blue LED indicator light. I'm going to mount it under the fan switch and hook the lights ground lead up to the center post of the 2 way switch. That way when the switch is on manual it'll light and when it's on the sensor it'll light when the sensor grounds.
 

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eliminate this problem from happening again I ordered a miniature blue LED indicator light. I'm going to mount it under the fan switch and hook the lights ground lead up to the center post of the 2 way switch. That way when the switch is on manual it'll light and when it's on the sensor it'll light when the sensor grounds.
Steve, I bought bat wing toggles with a light in the end of the bat wing. They have 3 wires so two do the switching, and the 3rd terminal is to illuminate the light in the end of the bat wing. So I just took the power lead from the fan and fed it back to the 3rd terminal, so if it's lit up there's power to the fan. Saves adding another hole in the dash, and another lamp.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-C1-Red-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 

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Discussion Starter #351
For me

that type switch doesn't go with my interpretation of the car; they're to dressy. I like the simple steel toggle design because it looks more industrial which I believe suits the theme of both cars. The way I'm wiring the light is the light ground wire goes to the center post of the switch which closes the ground circuit of the fan. This way if the switch goes bad, again, or the sensor goes bad, or the relay goes bad the blue indicator light won't be illuminated which will alert me to the problem. I'm also going to have a short jumper wire with alligator clips so that if the whole switch goes bad I can bypass it going direct to a good ground.
 

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Whenever there's any chance of a toggle switch carrying much current, I buy the highest amperage toggle switches I can find. I one time was in an Army surplus store nearby, and they had bins full if old toggle switches. Likely mostly used, but condition looked new. I bought 20 of them for $10, and wish I'd bought 3 times that! I've actually used them or given some away, and have none left. But never had any of them fail me. They all had some very unusual heavy black nuts that appeared to maybe take some oddball spanner wrench to tighten them down? I just used pliers since I never found anything to fit the serrated lock nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #354
Same here

Vall. There used to be a place on Colorado Blvd. that was some type of surplus store. They also had bin fulls of various switches for less than .50 cents apiece. They also carried sheets of aluminum, surplus stainless hardware, just all kinds of cool stuff. I miss those type of stores. They were fun to just walk through and look at everything because you never knew what treasure you might find.
 

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Surplus stores always smelled like old canvas inside too! I can still remember that smell! Have a friend who owns a Army surplus store on the other side of town.I should call him and ask if he has any HD toggle switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #356
IT'S NOT A LOT
but I got something done, finally. Ever since I redid the carb linkage it's been really stiff. I figured out, some time back, that it was the tight loop
106946
I had to put in the cable because (you can see the cable where it exits the firewall below the lower fuel line and then wraps around both fuel lines and makes a less than straight entrance into the ferrel) I was using the same hole in the firewall as when I had the cross ram on the motor. This past weekend I got out there took it all apart and figured what it needed. First I drilled a new hole directly in line with the carb linkage bell crank then I cut the gas pedal arm, took some measurements so I knew how high I had to raise the arm to meet the cable, found a short length of 3/16 X 3/4 steel flat stock, bent a dog leg into it and welded the aarm back together.
106947

Now it's a straight shot for the cable from the linkage rod to the bell crank.

106948


You can see the old hole down about 4" and 3" to the right of the new location. It sure does work smoother!!
 

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A lot going on with cables, bell crank, and angles. So anything to reduce drag will sure make it better! Little things like that make it more fun to drive it!
 

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Nice Steve. Straight on and direct has to be a good thing. Nice to tweak things down the line.
 

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Now get out and burn some fuel......lol...now don't you feel better that you got that done....lol..engine looks bad ass...I love the mag
 

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Hey Steve I saw this and your Hotrod Ford came to mind. Saw it on Facebook.
106973
 
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