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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any ideas out there about how much fender clearance I need for race slicks due to expansion of the tire. Not even sure if thats an issue for a car in the 120 mph range. I put my M&H tires on this week after Vaughn thought it might be a good idea. He was right, it is pretty close on one side. I may need to do surgery, but would rather not if I can keep from it. I have good clearance, except on the bottom rear edge. Thanks.:confused:
 

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My Goodyear Eagles are pretty close Mike, and haven't rubbed yet. Since I'm only running 1/8 mile, I haven't gotten over 100 mph with them. Tire pressure will affect diameter also, and I ran mine from around 25 psi to start, and down to 6-7 psi without an issue. Maybe if you have .5" or less, it might be a concern.
 

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My Goodyear Eagles are pretty close Mike, and haven't rubbed yet. Since I'm only running 1/8 mile, I haven't gotten over 100 mph with them. Tire pressure will affect diameter also, and I ran mine from around 25 psi to start, and down to 6-7 psi without an issue. Maybe if you have .5" or less, it might be a concern.
This is great information Vall. It leads me to another question about tires. I purchased 29X15.5-15 MICKEY THOMPSON SPORTSMAN PRO STREET TIRES for the Morris. Tubes are suggested and I really dislike having to drill my Cragars to insert screws to avoid the tires turning on the rims and cutting the valve stems. Any thoughts on this subject? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Robert, I will chime in on your question. I run the same MT tire on the coupe now. I do not have inner tubes or screws on them. I do on the MH slicks. From everything I have seen, the MT's do not really need the inner tubes. If you race them, just mark the rim and see if they move. Then you may have to put in screws, and if you do that I would recommend inner tubes due to air leaking.
 

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Slightly different situation with me, as my M&H's say that inner tubes are recommended on the sidewall but I was not aware of that when I purchased them. So I called up M&H and asked them if I needed to use tubes and they said I didn't. Just food for thought.
 

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Robert I have used M&T on most of our pro street cars we've built, and I know that has to be some where around 30 sets. I have never once used tubes. Now a few sets of softer side walls we had minor issues with a bit of a leak over the winter storage. But all others were just fine. If your using more of a pro series M&T I don't really think there going to hook hard enough to spin the rim. Please, someone chime in if they found different. :)
 

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My M&H drag radials don't have tubes, and they've never had a problem. I ran my Goodyear Eagles without screws, but later decided that I better add them after I saw how well they hooked; plus I started lowering tire pressure to hook even better. I would think some of the concern with tubes and screwed rims depends on tire pressure that you run. If you run them at the strip and try to lower the pressure to get good grip, then I think you need both tubes, and screws. But if you keep the pressure above 20 lbs., and mostly street driving, then I don't think you need either screws or tubes.
My experience with the Sportsman tires showed me they aren't a very soft compound. They didn't hook up as well as the M&H tires, and when I ran them on my Austin I could break them loose much easier than the M&H do. They were the cause of a few scary moments on the 1-2 shift, when the short wheelbase car snapped sideways under full power shifts. The M&H don't break traction at all on the 1-2 shift, or so little I don't feel it.
 

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I kinda thought running higher tire pressure may not require the tubes or screws but wasn't sure. I almost assuredly knew you all could tell me.... Thanks Guys!
 
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