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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My axle is on its way back now from Sppedway, I never did get as far as installing anything other than the knuckle/rotor assy.

Im assuming ( from what they told me on the phone when I placed the original order ) that everything and anything thats needed to get the car steering/rolling down the road is there with the exception of a dropped pitman arm of some sort.

They told me that they do not provide these.

I dont know how much of a drop Im gonna need yet but thinking ahead Id like to hear what you guys have done to get things level?

Ive read vague posts online about the possibility of getting a spline count of my original 67 Falcon steering box and being able to possibly use an aftermarket arm designed for these trucks that have been lifted, Ive read that sometimes to do this cutting out the index spline ( assuming I even have one on this box ) is a must and so be it if necessary.

I do not and will not attempt to use anything other than my newly re-manufactured stock steering box in its stock location which is mounted behind the axle similar in most ways to a Mustang of the same vintage.

Is there a guide out there of some sort that could help me to match up splines of the various pitman arms or how would you guys go about it?
 

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Most cars mounted their steering box on the frame rail and left it sitting high, this causes the drag link to sit at an unusually steep angle. I on my car dropped the steering box down to keep the drag link in the correct geometry. With the bracket hanging down so far, I had to gusset the steering bracket for strength.
 

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Since you've decided to confine yourself to stock box and location, your only hope is someone makes a dropped pitman arm for your Falcon. But if you're stuck on only using stock components, you wont find a stock factory dropped pitman arm.
As Rik mentioned, it is imperative that you keep the drag link level, and either lowering the stock steering box, changing to a different box, or lowering the pitman arm are the only options. If the drag link goes downhill to the backing plate it will have bump steer.
One other thing Speedway doesn't provide with their kit is a steering arm that's separate from the tie rod arms. A 2nd arm mounted above the axle is often required to ensure the drag link has a more level path. But that can also end up having pan clearance issues if the pitman arm, or steering box aren't lowered. But I prefer to use the top bolts of the spindle to mount the arm to keep things level.
Grinding out the locating notch on a pitman arm is only necessary if you are reversing the arm 180 degrees. For example if you used a box that steered behind the axle, but moved it forward of the axle, then the arm needs to be reversed 180 degrees so it turns the right direction. All steering boxes I've had apart have an index spline, and I'd guess yours also does. But it shouldn't need to be worked over.
In the 60's a lot of guys heated and bent their own pitman arms and it worked great. But beware that when you do a lowered or offset pitman arm the length of the arm becomes shorter from attachment point on the box to the end. So the more you lower it, the shorter it is, and the faster it reacts to the wheel. I remember guys with 4x4's getting into trouble lowering pitman arms to get their drag links flatter, and instead of bump steer issues, they got radical reaction issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info, Ill get it one way or another. I have some experience with lifted trucks Ive cut pinned and welded more than one arm and Ill do it again if necessary.

Im hoping to find a common spline count on the box with something that will work and readily available in the aftermarket world.
 

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Don't forget there are extensions for the steering arms that will raise your rod end a couple of inches. Speedway sells them.
 

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Little spacers at the steering arm end, or the pitman arm end can work well to help get the pitman arm lower, or the steering arm attachment point higher, and end up with a flatter drag link. I'd not go more than a 1" spacer on either end, but if a 1" was used on each end it would give a 2" change and that's a big help if it's needed.
Sometimes simply keeping mindful of which side of the arm the heim end is mounted on will make a huge difference too! I had a guy bring a gasser over to my house and ask if I could help him with his bump steer issues. I looked under the car and noticed the drag link mounted on the top side of the pitman arm, and bottom side of the steering arm at the spindle. I told him to swap both ends to the opposite sides they were mounted on, and let me know how it drives later. He called back a couple days later and was pretty excited. said all his bump steer was gone, and the drag link was just slightly uphill! Simple fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't forget there are extensions for the steering arms that will raise your rod end a couple of inches. Speedway sells them.
Im not quite sure what you mean cause I havent got that far but Ill keep it in mind
 

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these bolts come with spacers to come up higher off the steering arm. Im sure they come in different sizes. I think Ive seen other types as well in the catalog.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
these bolts come with spacers to come up higher off the steering arm. Im sure they come in different sizes. I think Ive seen other types as well in the catalog.
Sounds like Im gonna get to a stopping point again then, thanks for the pict
 

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If an Ibeam axle can be cut and welded, why not a pittman arm
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think its a blanket statement to say that it cant just cause chances are great that the average Joe may not have the knowledge or skills to do a proper job and will put others safety at risk
 

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If an Ibeam axle can be cut and welded, why not a pittman arm
Just like with an I beam axle, it depends on the part being welded on. Not all I beam axles are good candidates to be welded on, and not all pitman arms are good candidates either. The problem is knowing the metallurgy of either, and ensuring you are a great welder, or take it to one who is.
I'd weld on certain axles, but only if I take it to my buddy's place as he's got a big Miller. My Miller 140 is minimal for something so large, and so critical to my safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Come to find out the kit dosent come with any sort of steering arm either, what have you guys used for steering arms?

Also they sent Heim joints for tie rod ends when I thought they were gonna send tie rods end like a conventional steering system, I wont use heim joints, especially the ones that they sent which feel like something manufactured for the harbor freight crowd.
 

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I used the heim joints that came with my Speedway axle, and my car has 14,000 miles since built over 7 years ago. They're great, and still no play in them. You wont have a choice to use regular tie rod ens as the steering arms aren't taper reamed to use them.
 

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Come to find out the kit dosent come with any sort of steering arm either, what have you guys used for steering arms?
It doesn't need a separate steering arm! The two arms that come are enough, unless you want to add a 3rd arm to steer to? Simply use the pieces in the kit to attach your drag link to the steering arm on the right side of the car. If you don't use that position, then you can buy a 3rd separate arm from Speedway and mount it on the top two spindle holes. I mentioned this previously in one of your posts.
In this image you can see how my tierod is on the bottom of the steering arm, and my drag link is on top. So the steering arm is sandwiched between, and a spacer also on top to get the drag link level. Mine's front side steer, but rear works the same.



My Falcon is front side steer, but bottom rear side tierod. So I added a 3rd arm to the top of the spindle on the front side, and attached that to my Ford pickup box.



Falcon is also heim joints, and working well for almost 4 years now. Click on the images to increase the size a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It doesn't need a separate steering arm! The two arms that come are enough, unless you want to add a 3rd arm to steer to? Simply use the pieces in the kit to attach your drag link to the steering arm on the right side of the car. If you don't use that position, then you can buy a 3rd separate arm from Speedway and mount it on the top two spindle holes. I mentioned this previously in one of your posts.
In this image you can see how my tierod is on the bottom of the steering arm, and my drag link is on top. So the steering arm is sandwiched between, and a spacer also on top to get the drag link level. Mine's front side steer, but rear works the same.



My Falcon is front side steer, but bottom rear side tierod. So I added a 3rd arm to the top of the spindle on the front side, and attached that to my Ford pickup box.



Falcon is also heim joints, and working well for almost 4 years now. Click on the images to increase the size a little.
I need to re-read your post but my kit only came with one arm and the axle
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I used the heim joints that came with my Speedway axle, and my car has 14,000 miles since built over 7 years ago. They're great, and still no play in them. You wont have a choice to use regular tie rod ens as the steering arms aren't taper reamed to use them.
If you look at the bottom of these instructions they have two avail options ( unless Im misunderstanding ) a Ford spindle with Tie rods or a Ford spindle with Heim joints

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/916-3903.pdf

I know its Christmas but if you have a better picture of your steerin set-up that would be great, even after blowing your picture up its still hard to see cause of the colors blending in with each other
 

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Did you buy a speedway axle with Ford spindles? If so, then you do have two options. But I got the other spindles as I didn't like the bulky early Ford spindles look. So for mine there was no option except heims. But I like them.
Every axle has an arm for the tie rod ends to attach to. If you got the setup with heim joints, then you simply attach the drag link to the same passenger side arm as the tie rod, as I showed in the front view of my Austin. You can see them sandwiched with the tie rod on the bottom, and steering drag link on the top. One bolt through it all to hold them together.
You had to get two arms, or you couldn't use a tie rod with only one arm? Look at the instructions you linked to. See the 3 images with "Ford spindle with heim joints" written underneath? It clearly shows the two arms, tie rod, and the drag link sandwiched on the passenger side arm. Doesn't get much plainer than the instructions show.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Did you buy a speedway axle with Ford spindles? If so, then you do have two options. But I got the other spindles as I didn't like the bulky early Ford spindles look. So for mine there was no option except heims. But I like them.
Every axle has an arm for the tie rod ends to attach to. If you got the setup with heim joints, then you simply attach the drag link to the same passenger side arm as the tie rod, as I showed in the front view of my Austin. You can see them sandwiched with the tie rod on the bottom, and steering drag link on the top. One bolt through it all to hold them together.
You had to get two arms, or you couldn't use a tie rod with only one arm? Look at the instructions you linked to. See the 3 images with "Ford spindle with heim joints" written underneath? It clearly shows the two arms, tie rod, and the drag link sandwiched on the passenger side arm. Doesn't get much plainer than the instructions show.
Ok I get it, yes two steering arms, Im gonna get the tie rod deal hopefully coming tomm, I just prefer the look of the tie rods although Im sure the heims are perfectly fine
 
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