Thanks, Iam taking it down to steam clean the front of the frame, and begine the task of building perch spring pads for the straight axle, has a nice boxed frame witch should make the task easy. I am just wondering If I should push the front wheels forward a bit so it doesnt look to stuby, I have lowered the back another few inchs since the posted pictures
Thanks for the advice,I am going to put the shackles up front, so would it be wise to assume that it will move the axle forward about 1/2" when the engine and drive components are dropped in, the axle center will be marked using a plum bob with out the engine in the truck
Not sure it would move that far forward, unless the shackles were extremely long, and the springs settled an awful lot! I'd expect more like 1/4" than 1/2". But I'd be inclined to put the axle pretty close to where you want it, since there's so little change usually. I also try to start with shackles straight up without engine weight, as once the springs are loaded, it's usually good. But I tack weld the perch for the shackles until the full weight is in, just to ensure I wont need to do it twice. I've even blocked the engine in the frame rails temporarily with wood, just to have the weight on it, so I can ensure all is well before permanently welding the axle mounts.
Dropped the back 3 inchs I want the frame as close to level as possiable with 4 inchs over stock front lift it should be about in the photo, also felt like doing some welding today so I got my frame mounted exhaust welded up with there elbows and cut some brackets for them, they will be Siamesed to together under the truck, and no there not side pipes there under the truck
before i went to a unileaf straight tube axle i had an econoline i used a trick from the mud truck guys used a 3x6 sqare tubing abought 7 incch long and a 10 dollor boat spring and shackle kit they are standard 4 inch long and they work beutiful in the front and standard shackle mount in the rear if your ad enough drop on the rear mounts to were the axle slightly tilts back around 1 oclock it will steer straight as a ruler found that out along the way to
You may have gotten lucky setting kingpin angle by the hands of a clock! 1:00 o'clock is probably around 30 degrees, so it sure would make the car go straight, but turning would really fight the wheel! The farther back you angle the kingpins, the more the wheels want to lay over when turned, and they'll constantly fight to stay straight up.
Should actually set the kingpin angle using an angle finder, and in the range of 5-7 degrees. That will still make the car want to go straight, but not so much angle as to fight the wheel when turning.
i think your right this new set up i have was on something else it seem to have it built in all i had to do was bolt it in but i havent got to drive it yet were do get this tool at sounds like something that could come in handy thanks for that info