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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, boy things are moving pretty fast around me right now and it's exciting! Also a bit disappointing. I finally had the chance to about 90% look over my Nova front to back under and over. I guess I have to say I am very pleased with the car in general, and I would be worlds more happy about it all if the man that sold it to me had been a bit more honest.

I paid a lot of money for the car mainly because it just triggered something in me that took me back to when I was kid building model cars. I had for so long been in the high tech computer operated automotive world, that was sterile and mostly only allowed a man to mess with the "yellow colored items" under the hood like the dip stick.

My now sold 07 Mustang GT was like that. Couldn't even give it the gas from under the hood since it is all drive by wire and a little electric motor moves the throttle body thru a gear drive when the computer tells it to move.

The slight disappointment came in that the engine in my Nova was supposed to be new. In the pictures of it sent me before I bought it you could see some sort of bracket had been bolted to the Edelbrock heads. Then he told me he had the engine in a 67 Chevelle and broke it in for 1000 miles. So now a different story.

I don't know why a person would do that really, but again the sum total of all the hard to find items and goodies were there in one place for me so I didn't sweat the engine.

I see that the front seal is beginning to leak, and as well I think the rear one too. I have only driven the car about 50 miles. Went out one evening with it. All I know is there was some oil on the carport floor. I think some may still be leaking from the valve covers as well.

It could be that I have a one piece rear seal, we all know what that means come time to change it compared to a two piece one. I don't have enough money left in my one time allotment for Gary's big toy to do the other things I want to do and tear the engine down to fix leaks. The engine is in excellent running condition, and all the plugs read just perfectly no smoking at any time out the exhaust. It just has leaks to fix.

And this will seriously diminish my idea of the car being what I intend. So as I have a little place with way too many vehicles in and around it I did what I didn't think I could and let my Mustang GT go to my brother in law who has been wanting it for years.

He just about flew over here before I changed my mind and brought me cash. Monday morning, I will have this set up built to bolt to the new Stage 3 2004R already waiting for it at the speed shop. http://enginefactory.com/434CSB575HP.htm

There are less expensive engines out there of this sort, but I have talked with and researched The Engine Factory to death, and I come away with a great feeling that I will have an engine to be very proud of and to not need worry about. And they keep you up to date daily! Email you pictures and or video of the build as it goes along and you can watch them work on it if like on camera.

And they will soon "I hope" have a similar video like the like the link I sent here with my name on the sign and a live run test.

This set up should get it done.
 

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I'm a BBC guy myself, hadn't had a sbc in yrs. I got a Motown block, with a set of dart 230, ported heads in on trade when I SOLD MY RACE ENGINE, NOBODY WANTED TO GIVE ME ANYTHING FOR THEM SO I BUILT A 434 for my 72 chevelle. Now this thing weighs way more than your nova, and couldn't believe the torq this thing has. I got a pretty stout solid roller in it with a 850 QF Q series carb. It has ran awesome for 3 yrs. You'll be very happy when you hit the go pedal! Good luck, really niceb car. Sorry, damn caps lock.
 

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Some types of leaks are due to worn pistons and rings, bad or worn gaskets, oil plug not secured or worn, oil filter attached incorrectly or missing gasket, high oil pressure, degraded engine gaskets, oil seals or bad connections. Crawl under the car and check the oil pan seals. While you’re there also check the oil pan drain plug. Next check the timing cover seal. Problems here require repairs don’t panic you can always fixing oil leaks yourself it's not hard. A rear seal is a little difficult to see this one but you will know if you have a leak due to blue smoke coming from the underside of the car at the rear of the engine. Look forward to cruising with you when I get done with my ride… Warlock, Good luck and have fun. Would be nice to watch a minute by minute account. Hey the last month I pass a fellow coming I-37 US-281 N to San Antonio from the other direction and on a motorcycle he was patting himself on top of his head! What the heck was that about? About a mile down the road, there he sat, radar gun. Is that what that fellow was trying to tell me? Never seen that before !!! New to me
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some types of leaks are due to worn pistons and rings, bad or worn gaskets, oil plug not secured or worn, oil filter attached incorrectly or missing gasket, high oil pressure, degraded engine gaskets, oil seals or bad connections. Crawl under the car and check the oil pan seals. While you’re there also check the oil pan drain plug. Next check the timing cover seal. Problems here require repairs don’t panic you can always fixing oil leaks yourself it's not hard. A rear seal is a little difficult to see this one but you will know if you have a leak due to blue smoke coming from the underside of the car at the rear of the engine. Look forward to cruising with you when I get done with my ride… Warlock, Good luck and have fun. Would be nice to watch a minute by minute account. Hey the last month I pass a fellow coming I-37 US-281 N to San Antonio from the other direction and on a motorcycle he was patting himself on top of his head! What the heck was that about? About a mile down the road, there he sat, radar gun. Is that what that fellow was trying to tell me? Never seen that before !!! New to me
Well Howdy!! Ya first there was the problem of the Edelbrock valve covers that were sitting on Edelbrock heads, that clanked up against the runners on my new and expensive Edlebrock intake as to not let me bolt them down properly and left a 3/8" gap on the top side! Bought this stuff at Summit, and I bought a lot of other stuff too from them and added my reviews on the site for each piece. All my reviews were approved but for this intake and valve cover matter.

When I called tech support at Summit, I was put on hold quit a while then this guy comes back and tell me I should take a belt sander to my over $200.00 brand new valve covers and try to get some clearance that way. His alternative solution was to laminate two valve cover gaskets together and see if that would work!

Nobody at Edelbrock returned my calls nor emails. I told the Summit guy that #1 I would not think of grinding away on my valve covers that spent two full days detailing and painting along with the super expensive Edelbrock over $200.00 air cleaner. And his idea of trying to glue gaskets together didn't exactly blow my skirt up either!

Still that was it, no solutions no nothing. I for what it was worth filed a complaint and detailed there response. Never figured to hear back, but it made me feel better. Next day some big shot at Summit called me and said he wants to do something for me to help mitigate my woes. I have not got back with him yet but he would not post on the web site that these particular Edelbrock parts don't work together as they come from the factory. We will see what happens.

After looking at the under side of the engine now the front seal is beginning to leak. And it was tightened down by a monkey. A cheap sort of chrome looking timing chain cover is on there and the bolts push the cover flat against the engine but in between the cover is bowed. And the front seal is on its way out as well. The rear seal is also now beginning to leak and I have only driven the car 50 miles or so. The oil pan does not leak, but has huge blobs of gasket sealer sticking out in places like a little kid put it on and was having fun playing with the goo.

I know for certain that this is all minor stuff and would not be too hard to fix but this was supposed to be a new engine. And its obvious that its in excellent running condition its the "scariest fast" car I have ever driven. Its got a monster roller cam and lifters in it don't know the specs past 500 and something lift. All the plugs look perfect and read the same no smoke any where at all.

All this adds up to muddying up my initial plan for a serious fast car that was dependable and good looking. At least in my mind the "dependable" part. I have to think long term on this car as its going to be a life long project. I want to get the biggest bang for my buck while I have the bucks because when its gone its gone. The 434 Dart engine should be plenty of grunt for me.

Oh, yes sir the biker patting the top of his head is the signal to other bikers a cop with radar is ahead or some other major malfunction you need to know about. I use my left pointer finger when I'm on my bike and make "circles" in the air pointing up and then use my thumb to point over my shoulder behind me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm a BBC guy myself, hadn't had a sbc in yrs. I got a Motown block, with a set of dart 230, ported heads in on trade when I SOLD MY RACE ENGINE, NOBODY WANTED TO GIVE ME ANYTHING FOR THEM SO I BUILT A 434 for my 72 chevelle. Now this thing weighs way more than your nova, and couldn't believe the torq this thing has. I got a pretty stout solid roller in it with a 850 QF Q series carb. It has ran awesome for 3 yrs. You'll be very happy when you hit the go pedal! Good luck, really niceb car. Sorry, damn caps lock.
I honestly think for me a big block would be over kill. I'm not near mature enough to be able to contain my self when it comes to speed and hard acceleration. I'm already amazed by the power to weight ratio my little 62 Nova has with the 383. The Dart 434 makes 550 horse and about the same torque. It being completely new from the block up with nothing but the best parts in the best places hooked to the stage 3 2004R which was just built by Bow Tie for me, should haul the mail. I do have the extra leaf springs needed that came with the front end kit to support a big block. But unless I turn it into a strip only race car I'll get along with the small block. But I sure appreciate you telling me how well you liked your 434 and like you said my Nova is a bunch lighter than a Chevelle.

Thank you sir...
 

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Steve, have you thought about taking the motor out of the car and building it the way you want it? You could use the money you save from building another motor to make other mods on your car...such as a turbo...and once you build the motor, you will know exactly what you have when any problems are encountered. Just a thought for consideration. Have a great day wildman.
 

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Warlock, I agree with 38Plymouth Gasser. Last year a friend of mine told me about his sbc 400 these are becoming harder to find in my area and I want to build a strong mouse trap. I had been thinking about pumping steroids into what was perceived as a weak-kneed small-block and heard about the 400 cooling problems. Gave it some thought and did not take the step. I ran into my friend again and asked about the 400, he still had it and I got it cheap. Take your time, be patient, shop, for the best bargains, and get competent help. As for making mistakes.....I have made my share, I learn from mine. I like to play with my car and do all my own work, I had to farm out some work such as balancing rods, pistons, crank, etc an also have a good friend help better welder than I and down the road another friend that lets me use his lifts. I have made mistakes but its not the end of the world. Good Luck crazy teenager!!!! Have to get back with my lesson plans and objectives for mañana first day of school....
 

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If the trans is coming out do the rear seal an pan gasket.....easy to do then, front cover buy a OEM... after market are mostly crap, the only problem I can see is if the crank rear seal area is damaged or the harmonic balancer seal area is bad there are service kits for both the crank and balanier, you got enough motor for the nova...........just my 2 cents.....but i am cheap............. one last thing be sure the crank case is well ventilated to reduce back pressure in side the engine witch can cause leaks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Man you guys are so cool and so helpful. The idea of taking the 383 I have now and stripping it down and going thru it completely would be a lot of fun and like you said a hell of a lot cheaper too. I have all the special tools and all to do a complete rebuild and then know exactly what I have. But I only have a little one car, car port. Its open on three sides and faces the front toward the street.

7 little dogs roam the yard, and love carrying little things away to play with and or bury in the yard! Someday soon I hope we will have the carport made into a garage where I can work. And it galls me frankly that the supposed new engine is leaking from all over. I, like the senile fart that I am, thought today was Saturday. I called the Engine Factory and Matt answered!

That confirmed in my head it WAS Saturday. We went over the things I wanted, and I have sent a deposit today.. Then Matt tells me he has to move today and needed to go, and told me it was his house he was moving from. Then said that tomorrow "Monday" he will call me.

Because this car is my life long project and don't know if there will be another, and because for the first time in my 61 years I have the money to go a bit long and get something impossible for me in the past to have, I decided on the 434. It has some really good stuff inside:


• All New Dart SHP Block w/Splayed 4 Bolt Main Caps

• Eagle 4340 4.000 Stroke Forged Steel Crank

• Eagle 4340 6.000 H-Beam Connecting rods

• Forged Pistons 10.25:1 Compression

• Moly Rings

• Double Roller Timing Set

• Dart Aluminum Cylinder Heads 2.080/1.600

• Stainless Steel Valves

• 1.500 Hydraulic Roller Springs w/ Steel Retainers

• Comp Cams Custom Hydraulic Roller Camshaft

• Hardened Seats for running Unleaded fuel

• Hydraulic Roller Lifters

• High Performance pushrods (1-piece)

• Comp Cams Roller Rockers

• Canton Race Prepped Oil pump w/Tig Welded HD Pickup

• Clevite 77 H Series Rod & Main Bearings

• Fel-Pro HP Head Gasket with Pro

• High Performance Harmonic Balancer

• Automatic Flex Plate
(Standard Flywheel extra $250.00)

• Canton Street/Strip Oil pan

• Chrome Timing Cover

• Polished Aluminum Valve Covers

• Dart Air Gap Intake Manifold

• Holley 750 cfm Mechanical Secondary Carburetor

• New High Flow Water pump

• New Fuel Pump

• MSD Race Prepped High Energy Ignition

• Distributor w/ 53,000 volt coil Pak

• New Spark plugs gapped and installed

• Taylor 8mm High Temp Resistant Silicone Wires

• New Chrome Thermostat Housing

• 14 Inch Chrome Air Cleaner

• PCV and Breather Installed

• New Hard Tube Fuel Line with Filter

• Braided lines to Filter and Pump - Add $110.00

• Oil Filter, Dipstick and Diptube

• Mini High Torque Starter

• Ignition Timing Set, Carburetor fully adjusted

• Hot Run tested and dialed In place

• Free 40 minute installation DVD

• Internally Balanced , Blueprinted and Painted with a High Temperature Enamel Paint


And it sounds good https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152727695348990&set=vb.119427678989 My engine will have the finned valve covers and intake like I have on my 383. And I will sell the 383 and new built Turbo 350 and my wheels because Cragar S/S's are going on it. Also the B&M pro shifter will be sold I got a new Billet B/M Pro that's 4 speed capable. Even a custom built transmission cross member and mount to install the 2004R in place of the turbo 350 and use the stock mounting point no hole drilling, no modifications.

But and this is a big BUT it wont be till the end of next month till the engine will be ready.
 

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Even if you didn't do so yourself; I'd think paying a shop to fix the oil leak would be about $12k less, and easy with the engine out to install the overdrive too. The rest could go towards a lot of neat parts for your car, or use on gas!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey Vall. Of course your right about the huge money savings. But the idea was to go big and get all the monster I can and one that will stand up to what ever it encounters. Its probably over kill, but its built to run and last me as long as I need it. And like I said, I will recoup a decent bit of money when I sell my engine and transmission etc.. I also have a Edelbrock Victor Jr. with a 750 cfm Quick Fuel carb for sale. The wheels are being sold as well.

I am going to need to address the rear tire situation. Thinking on M&H drag radials or something like that. At the strip, once I get it set up and with slicks, I am guessing mid 10's in the quarter. And it should be more than up to a road trip with 3.70's and lock up converter in 4th.

That's my guess..
 

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If your going big then its a 6-71 blower or nothing, on a big block....may as well look like you got something in your pants other than a pair of socks.......got balls. be prepared to up grade your radiator and the marks and dings that come with fooling with things. or build a garage with the money.... I could not leave it out side with out 30 feet of chain attached to the car and my ankle.........lol.... or by a beater drag car and learn to race with it first to see if its your thing...... just some thoughts not to criticize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If your going big then its a 6-71 blower or nothing, on a big block....may as well look like you got something in your pants other than a pair of socks.......got balls. be prepared to up grade your radiator and the marks and dings that come with fooling with things. or build a garage with the money.... I could not leave it out side with out 30 feet of chain attached to the car and my ankle.........lol.... or by a beater drag car and learn to race with it first to see if its your thing...... just some thoughts not to criticize.
Hi. Well the big block is only out in my mind for now. I have the extra two leaf springs on each side to put on my front axel to take the extra weight. Room is no problem. But to me now I would only have a race car for the strip. I have a huge new aluminum race type radiator in it now and don't have any over heating problems but could easily add an electric fan if needed. We are having our carport turned into a two car garage extending the house out. My buying this engine has no bearing on that, and I have been drag racing on the street and strip for the greatest part of my life but acknowledge this Nova is on another level and indeed will take a bit of getting used to.

But I would not have bought this car if drag racing wasn't my thing. As far as it being stolen it could happen. But since I'm here all the time it would be difficult to do. At night I have 7 little yappy ass burglar alarms that go off if a cricket farts out of tune! And thankfully I live in Texas where we all carry guns and I have a Super Red Hawk 44 Magnum. Not only is it legal to shoot a thief dead here, its encouraged!

But the best thing I have going for me in that department is two or three Mexican Mafia big shots live in my neighborhood. And before they were those idiots they were little kids with beat up bicycles and toys. For over 20 years I have been rebuilding and repainting bicycles for the kids here and never charged a cent, and I am on good ground with them all because they all remember me. The punks that don't know get told "I'm told".
 

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As much as I love a BBC, your 383 or the new 434 are as close as you can get to a BBC, and still have the SBC format. As for a blower, I'd not go to one unless I really was prepared to learn everything needed to tune a blown engine. Those who have them seem to really know blowers and blower tuning, so they can keep them running smoothly. I've always wanted one, but beyond the cost of the blower engine, and blower, I didn't want to spend the time to learn blower tuning, and wont pay someone else to do it for me.
I understand what you're saying on getting something that's really big, and bad. But it will also require a bit of tuning, and hands on to ensure it stays big and bad. Additionally it's pushing a SBC to it's very limits, and I wouldn't expect the longevity of the 383 from a SBC of that cubic inch. My personal feelings have always been to build engines that don't push the limits, and will give me many decades of service.
As for money coming back from the sale of engines and transmissions; it's very little compared to what they cost. Most people are very lucky if they get anything close to .50 cents on the dollar. And usually it's more like .25 cents on the dollar. Unless you find a friend who knows you, the engine, or the engine builder; it rarely gets much return.
 

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I agree with you Vall you get nothing back...........just go on craigslist you will find really great deals on motors bought for projects that never get finished.. why guys buy motors in stead of a bare junk block for set up is beyond me....at least 75% never get completed buy the original buyer, and consumes a larger amount of money that usually puts a halt to a project......there is a big block with blower ready to run in my area for 12k......alot of times I see guys selling there project for the cost of what they paid for the engine alone you get the car for free and all the other stuff free............ back to the subject. Glad your having the garage built. the mafia cant control the weather, guns we got guns we are a open carry state as well........But hey its your project so I wish you the best
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey Vall, I had the same idea in mind in that I have the weight savings and all running a big bore small block compared to the big block. And fairly comparable power. I have to think that the Dart racing block with splayed 4 bolt mains and every single top of the line internal component running in harmony together will last a while. Matt at The Engine Factory said straight out no worries about this engine taking cross country trips or anything else you want to do as long as you keep gas in it.

Of course what else can he say? I am happy looking and listening to other peoples superchargers I never had a big desire for one since it was always completely out of my price range. And the idea of new pistons and lower compression to be able to even think about it puts me off quite a bit. And with out tuning knowledge for a supercharger you can have disasters that I'm not ready for.

Going to be the end of next month before my engine is done. Daily pictures of its progress will be sent me I'll post them. As for my 383 and transmission etc. A guy working at the speed shop has a 67 Nova and is more than willing to take my stuff off my hands for it. If the dollar amount is not right Craigslist will get it sold. As well, if some one here wants any of this stuff we can work out something, I can deliver it my self.

The wife says just keep it for another project or parts. I can build a shed in back of my other shed to store this stuff and may do just that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I agree with you Vall you get nothing back...........just go on craigslist you will find really great deals on motors bought for projects that never get finished.. why guys buy motors in stead of a bare junk block for set up is beyond me....at least 75% never get completed buy the original buyer, and consumes a larger amount of money that usually puts a halt to a project......there is a big block with blower ready to run in my area for 12k......alot of times I see guys selling there project for the cost of what they paid for the engine alone you get the car for free and all the other stuff free............ back to the subject. Glad your having the garage built. the mafia cant control the weather, guns we got guns we are a open carry state as well........But hey its your project so I wish you the best

Just got off the phone with Kenny at the speed shop where my car is being transformed. He offered me $2.000 for my engine and trans and all my work done free in the shop. Think I'll take it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey you guys. I am still waiting on the engine. I emailed them last week and asked what was up and got told it was going to be a couple weeks till the Dart block and heads come in, and "were on schedule"! I just figured they had all that stuff in house, I was wrong.

The 200 4R and all the other stuff are in a couple crates in the shop, and have been for a month. Soon as the engine gets here then I guess I will have to wait my turn for them to get to me. There always busy. Only thing in my favor to speed things up is they want my 383 and trans badly for some new project that just came up. And as well I'm getting the work done no charge so to speak. I have not been paid the $2,000 owed me for the stuff. And I just spent $1,500 on the intake and carb, air cleaner, and valve covers. I don't as yet know what the charges would be for the engine and trans swap, but I do get $2,000 and the shop labor for the engine and trans.

Falls short for sure, but I'm building the car I want and have high expectations for the end results. When the car leaves the shop the windows with have been tinted red and as much rubber as humanly possible stuffed under the rear of the car mounted on a new set of Cragar S/S's . I think its going to need it.
 
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