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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A previous owner had cut out the floor, wheelwells and firewall so 1st I had to build a framework for the new floor. I used 1X2 14 ga tubing for this. I also set it up for a Tanks Inc early Mustang style gas tank. This car is a no trunk model, so the tank hole in the floor gives me an access hole in the back of the car to work through until I need the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wheel wells were a challenge. I cut the inner blank, rolled the beads in them with a Harbor Freight roller and home made dies and then hammer formed a radius on the inner edge. The buck is particle board with a 1/2" radius routered around the edge. Then I welded the outer piece to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got a 700R4 today and mated it to a 283 I bought a couple of weeks ago. I set the combo in the frame for a 1st mockup. Everything looks like it will fit together pretty good. The headers are a swap meet buy and needed to see if they were going to work. I'll have cut the curve of the collector loose and rotate them a little bit,but other than that, they'll work good.

Blue
 

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........ rolled the beads in them with a Harbor Freight roller..........
Very NICE WORK. The "rolled beads" look GREAT!!!! Proving not ALL stuff from Harbor Freight is junk.

The fenderwell exit headers also look great !!!!


Even though the "block hugger" headers on our Opel work I still want to come up with some sort of custom headers for it one day. With all the "engine setback" the headers would have a very "unique look". Once I redo the firewall & get rid of the "setback BOX" the engine sits in I'll be able to get a better idea of what I can do.


So many things on the "to do list".... ha!!!

Thanks for ALL the great pictures !!!!!
 

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I got a 700R4 today and mated it to a 283 I bought a couple of weeks ago. I set the combo in the frame for a 1st mockup. Everything looks like it will fit together pretty good. The headers are a swap meet buy and needed to see if they were going to work. I'll have cut the curve of the collector loose and rotate them a little bit,but other than that, they'll work good.

Blue
Great looking headers, and looks like a pretty simple fix to get the collector pointed the right direction. Might be tricky to fit a firewall mounted master cylinder in there, but under floor should be a snap.
 

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Nice job on the floor framing. Now you have me thinking about cutting out all of my flooring and doing the same thing. What did you use for the flooring tube? Is that 1X2 ? What wall thickness? Do you feel the framing is lighter than the original flooring metal so you saved some weight or do you think it may be a wash. If I do that I want to make sure I lose some weight in the process. If I could find scrap aluminum sheets I would try using that for the flooring to save weight. I've been trying to figure out how to get air into the trunk area to feed the radiator back there. If I go the flooring cut out and replacment route I could build a large air intake duct starting behind the seat and it could feed the trunk/radiator. That is Great work and keep the pics coming. You are doing a fantastic job. (If not more work for me---boo-hoo, LOL). Mark l
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nice job on the floor framing. Now you have me thinking about cutting out all of my flooring and doing the same thing. What did you use for the flooring tube? Is that 1X2 ? What wall thickness? Do you feel the framing is lighter than the original flooring metal so you saved some weight or do you think it may be a wash. If I do that I want to make sure I lose some weight in the process. If I could find scrap aluminum sheets I would try using that for the flooring to save weight. I've been trying to figure out how to get air into the trunk area to feed the radiator back there. If I go the flooring cut out and replacment route I could build a large air intake duct starting behind the seat and it could feed the trunk/radiator. That is Great work and keep the pics coming. You are doing a fantastic job. (If not more work for me---boo-hoo, LOL). Mark l
I used 1X2 14 gage for the floor framework and 18 gage cold rolled for the floor. Probably heavier than original Henry J stuff but I though it needed at least that. A previous dwner had cut everything out so I had nothing to go by.

Blue
 

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I saved most of my floor when I did my car, but the part of the firewall and tunnel I did replace went in with 16ga. sheetmetal. Pretty stout, but I wanted the flat firewall to not have to be overly braced for the brake pedal, etc, and the leftover just built the tranny tunnel. I figured it couldn't cut more than a few tenths off a 1/4 mile time. (if that!)
 

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I used 1X2 14 gage for the floor framework and 18 gage cold rolled for the floor. Probably heavier than original Henry J stuff but I though it needed at least that. A previous owner had cut everything out so I had nothing to go by.
Blue
I am also going to upgrade the floor on the Opel.... previous owner(s) used pretty thin sheet metal for the floor. So thin that the floor below the brake pedal "flexes" when pressure is applied to the brake pedal.

The sheet metal is like new (painted black on both sides) so I am leaning towards "covering" the existing floor with 16 gauge rather than removing it.

Like Vall said "I figured it couldn't cut more than a few tenths off a 1/4 mile time. (if that!)"
 

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I am also going to upgrade the floor on the Opel.... previous owner(s) used pretty thin sheet metal for the floor. So thin that the floor below the brake pedal "flexes" when pressure is applied to the brake pedal.

The sheet metal is like new (painted black on both sides) so I am leaning towards "covering" the existing floor with 16 gauge rather than removing it.

Like Vall said "I figured it couldn't cut more than a few tenths off a 1/4 mile time. (if that!)"
Might even add some bracing around the brake master John. Even with my thicker metal, I still added bracing at the master with some lightweight angle that is sandwiched between the master and the firewall. I ran bracing from there to the dash too, to further stiffen the master mount.
 

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Might even add some bracing around the brake master John. Even with my thicker metal, I still added bracing at the master with some lightweight angle that is sandwiched between the master and the firewall. I ran bracing from there to the dash too, to further stiffen the master mount.
Great ideas/suggestions. With the firewall, seat & roll pan moving back I am going to move the master cylinder under the floor.

With ALL the changes I am going to do the Opel it would have been much easier to "build it fro scratch" rather than having to make all these changes.
 

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I like the floors! The harbor freight stuff can be good. I wouldn't mind some of the metal working tools they have. I really like that you are using a 283. That's cool.
 

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I like the floors! The harbor freight stuff can be good. I wouldn't mind some of the metal working tools they have......
Ol Blue ....... since you posted pics of your bead-rolled sheet metal work I have been thinking about investing in the Harbor Freight bead roller.


Any suggestions or.... ????
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
A friend of mine has one and I saw how it worked so I reinforced mine before I even tried it. The upper and lower parts deflect side to side out at the rollers unless some kind of beefing up is done.

Blue
 
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