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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have just started this project i have owned the car for 3 years but have put it off to the side for a while. i bought the car from a local auto wreaker and fell in love with it. it was a bottomof he line 2dr post car with a 250ci strait 6 cyl and a 3 speed standard colume shift car, i have picked up a front axle section from a 1952 chevy 1/2 ton.

october2011 016.jpg october2011 003.jpg october2011 007.jpg october2011 010.jpg october2011 005.jpg

here are a few pics and i will add more as i progress

thanks for looking
 

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I love your car. Looks like you've got the space to build it. Being a stripped model, it should be lighter as well. Nice.

I think those early '50s axles have springs that are not parallel. I'm sure I saw a post on that elsewhere. Or it could be that they are and the later '50s one's are not. I don't know. Hate to see it put on wrong, though.

Where in The Great White North are you? I have relatives all over BC.

Mike
 

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The early ('52) Chevy pickup axles are narrow. Not saying that you wouldn't be OK with them being that narrow but I advize you moch it up before welding it in. The wide body of the Pontiac wil make it look even narrower. I have a '57 axle ('55-'59) axle and it is almost too narrow for my liking. I had a pair of 15X4 skinnies with 1.5 backspacing and it was too narrow for my likes. I've got wider slots on it right now and it almost looks OK. I'll add a pic of both if I have them.
This is the skinnies.



This is with the wider tires/rims.



If I ever get a real straight axle I'll go about 4 inches wider (2 inch per side) and then go back to skinnies. Although the chunkier tires and rims do not look too bad on the bigger car.

I think my wider axle measures 50 inches on center from king pin to king pin boss. Mark L
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you for the advise i will take that into consideration, im not wanting the skiny "pizza cutters" i like the beefy looking tires up front but i wil definitly "mesure twice and cut once" lol

and im from edmonton Ab but i also have family on the coast in nanimo
 

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The 49-54 Chevy truck axles are not parallel springs, they taper in at the front. The 55-59 are true parallel, and are about 1.5" wider than the early 50's Chevy truck axle. Most larger cars will be better off with a Chevy van straight axle as a donor. The first post Corvair Chevy vans had a pretty nice axle under them and was a bit wider than the late 50's truck axle, but the 55-59 is still wide enough if you're using wider tires, and not the skinnies.
I actually think in a full sized car that the little 165 tires on 3.5" rims are a poor choice for the street. I'd go at least a 4.5"-5" rim, and a 205 tire.
The Strato will make a great gasser, and definitely turn heads just because it's so unusual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the info i was origionaly looking for an early van but couldent find one im hopping to make this axle work but if i cant i know what else to look for i will know for sue once i star taking the car apart and musuring up the front end i apreciate all the feed back i have no one to ask up here i have only seen 2 gassers in alberta and its nice to know if i have questions i have some where to look
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
progress

progess on the strato i cut out the engine cradeland bracing im leaving the stock frame rails in but im boxing them and reinforcing the front i took your advise mark and am using a 55 chev truck axle not the origional 52 i was going to use i will keep everyone posted as i go

october 25 2011 015.jpg october 25 2011 001.jpg october 25 2011 007.jpg october 25 2011 005.jpg october 25 2011 014.jpg
 

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With the whole truck frame and axle, might it be easier to graft that frame to the Strat's frame? If it could, it would save a lot of time and work to mount the axle! Probably still need to also box it in to strengthen it though.
 

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That axle will work well. They're nice and stout, and there are plenty of brake + bolt pattern options available to suit your needs. Nice start!
 

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Hey Mike, next time there just kinda get them to look away for a sec and get all of the aluminum front sheet metal from the '63 for me. Could really use the weight savings on my pig, heh. I'll even spring for a McDonalds burger for a thank you. HA! (Really a reward hey??). Mark L
 

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Hey Mike, next time there just kinda get them to look away for a sec and get all of the aluminum front sheet metal from the '63 for me. Could really use the weight savings on my pig, heh. I'll even spring for a McDonalds burger for a thank you. HA! (Really a reward hey??). Mark L
They have a electric fence around it with armed guards! :)
 

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Darn. UH, two burgers for the electro therapy????? Mark L
 

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Yayayayayayayaya---aaahhh. Crap. Popped a breaker again. Must be the wet shorts!!!! Markus Lo'Watticus
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
up date on the project. i have finished cutting out the sections of the frame and have tacked in all the nessisary panels now it is just a matter of grinding everything smooth and welding it in solid then figuring out the shackle placement, is there a way to make the rear shackles adjustable???

i think i am going to call it "Miss" Behaving what do you guys think?
 

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^^ :D I like it!

The only adjustable shackles I saw were ones that had one hole at the top and three on the bottom... is that what you mean? Are you looking for adjustments in ride height for different situations? You could always add air shocks and pump 'em up! My '74 GTO has them so the tires don't rub. Kinda hillbilly but to me it's 1979!


Mike
 

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^^ :D I like it!

The only adjustable shackles I saw were ones that had one hole at the top and three on the bottom... is that what you mean? Are you looking for adjustments in ride height for different situations? You could always add air shocks and pump 'em up! My '74 GTO has them so the tires don't rub. Kinda hillbilly but to me it's 1979!

Mike

I used air shocks on the rear of my '71 Camaro when I raced it to adjust the rear. Not for ride heaight, but to get the launch straight. I plumbed them with individual fill lines and added about 15 lbs. of extra air on the right rear. It sat slightly high on that side, but launched straight as an arrow.
When I rebuilt the suspension this year I was going to remove them and replace with regular shocks, but I decided to just replace the air shocks and keep the separate line fill kits. I still run a little extra in the R. rear, but not enough to change ride height.
 
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