Gasser HotRod Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Started to Modify the Front Steering as I am experiencing a little bump steer on a hard bump! Probably can live with it but why should I have too..LOL
The first picture shows the current setup with the extreme angle of the Drag Link as is goes from the Passenger side Steering Arm to the Pitman arm coming off the stock 57 Chevy Steering box. Notice that the Steering Arms are on the lower two bolts of the spindles which creates the extreme angle. Also notice how low the Tie-rod is!


The next photo shows the current setup with the Drag bar and the Tie-rod link both attached to the Lower mounted Steering arm on the Passenger side Spindle. Again creating an extreme angle to the Drag Bar in order to attach to the Pitman Arm.


This picture shows the new angle after I switched the Disc Brake mount to the front (Vice the rear where it was before), and I also switched the Drivers side Steering arm to the passenger side, and mounted it to the two Top Spindle Bolts. (**The Bolts like the one holding the Drag Link and the Tie-Rod is only there for mock up, I need to buy new Grade 8 bolts and nuts but having trouble finding a 5 inch 3/4 fine thread bolt with at least a 4 inch threaded area!).
The Steering Arms are Threaded where the Tie-Rod attaches to the Arms. Can anyone see any reason why I can't just drill them out thus allowing me to use a Long Bolt with a Longer shoulder and that way I won't need as much Threaded area!, nor will I need to use Fine Threaded Bolts!!


I have to move the shock mounting locations because the new steering setup allows the Drag Link to hit the shock and won't allow full lock to lock steering. I can use the Original Stock Upper shock mount on the 57 Chevy frame, but will need to weld up new lower shock mounts on the Straight Axle...I am holding them in the correct position. The Shocks will be angled slightly towards the inside (about 4 or 6 degrees). I think that will be just fine. I plan on making the lower mounts about 1/2 taller then needed to allow about 1/2 inch shock compression at full suspension travel, thus avoiding stretching the shock fully out and causing damage to the shocks. I still have to cut off the old shock mounts as well


This photo just shows the Steering Arm on the Drivers side (again where the Tie-Rod mounts to the Steering Rod is threaded so does anyone see any reason why I can't just drill it out in order to use Grade 8 Bolts that have a shoulder on them and not fully Threaded, as I am having trouble finding those!!!) (***Also, all the bolts in the photos are just there for mock up, I will buy the correct sized bolts for final build). The Angle is not as extreme as this photo shows..See the last photo and compare that too the first photo to see how much better the new angle is!!


In This photo you can see the new Shock Angle (The top of the shock is already mounted to the stock 57 Upper Shock mount). I also had to move the Disc Brake mount to the front vice the rear so I can get the room to use the Upper two bolts on the spindle for the Steering arms to mount. Since I swapped the Disc Brakes from side to side it allows the Bleeder screw to stay on top of the caliper when mounted, for easy Bleeding of the front brakes.


The Last photo shows the new Angle of the Drag Link and How much it has been reduced. Compare the 1st photo to this one and you will see the huge change.


I have a few more things to do before I can start final assembly. Hope I can find a Nylock in 3/4 fine thread or I can just use a standard Lock Washer. Again the Reason I need to use fine Threaded 3/4 inch bolts is because the Steering Arms are Threaded where the Tie-Rod attaches. Is there any reason I can't just drill them out and use Course threaded Grade 8 Bolts which are easier to find?? Still need to purchase the following:
One 3/4 x 3" fine threaded Grade 8 Bolt and Nut (attaches the Drag Bar to the Pitman Arm)
One 3/4 x 4" fine threaded Grade 8 Bolt and Nut (attaches the Tie-Rod to the Steering Arm on the Drivers Side)
One 3/4 x 5" fine threaded Grade 8 Bolt and Nut (attaches the Tie-Rod and Drag Link to the Passenger Side Steering Arm)
Two -03AN x 18" or 20" Braided steel Brake Lines and 4 copper washers
Cut off the old Lower Shock Mounts and weld on the new Lower Shock mounts in the new location.

After the above then all I need to do is bolt it all together, Bleed the Brakes and head for a test drive. I have a good feeling my bump-steer will be gone!!!
I will add new photos as I get the parts and asembly done..stay tuned!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Glad to see the change in that. And how my set up is eerily similar to yours now. Makes me feel like I am on the right track.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,427 Posts
Looks great! I would stay with fine thread, and nylock nuts, but you can surely drill out the threaded arms and not have a problem. I wouldn't use lockwashers by themselves on steering, as these components have a lot of stress continuously, and will work themselves loose. Also wouldn't use coarse thread bolts, as they don't hold as well either. Even if you have to order the bolts somewhere and wait, I'd still stick with the fine threads. I also use blue Loctite on my steering and suspension components, even with locking nuts, as I've had issues with things slowly working loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,425 Posts
Here in Long Island our ace hardware stores carry a good selection of 3/4 hardware. Do you want me to check on your size bolts. More than happy to ship them to you.
Mario
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top