My 1953 Ford Mainline Gasser Project

22567 Views 29 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Splatt, Nov 29, 2011

TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · Jul 7, 2011 (Edited)

2

I thought it would be a good idea to start my project thread to keep me motivated and for opinions, so I do not make bad choices. I have always loved the body lines of the '53 Ford Mainline and thought it would make a great lookin Gasser. The engine is pretty much ready... it is a 355cid SBC, Edlebrock TR1 dual quad tunnel ram with 500cfm Edlebrocks, 194 camel humps roller rockers, gear drive, cam is 305 duration / .525" lift, TH350 with B&M shift kit & 3200 stall. I do know for sure, I don't want to radius the rear wheel wells but either tuck the rear tires in or have the rear wheel opening above the tires. I really like AWB's but that is very far down the road. I don't have much, this is in the very early planning stages but here is what i'm working with so far.

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1937Austin

· #2 · Jul 7, 2011 (Edited)

Looks like about as clean a '53 Ford as you could find anywhere! I also think the '53 Fords make a super nice gasser! I've seen pictures of a few and with a straight axle and some skinny tires and slicks they look great! The frames seem to lend themselves nicely to accept an axle without major work also.

Marks63PontiacGasser

· #3 · Jul 8, 2011

Perfect gasser material. But like I mentioned in your other post. I think you should radius the wheelwells. Just my opinion here, that low wheelwell opening does not look right once all the other cues are present on that car. The toughest stance on that body style is the wider, taller tire just out to the body line. But that is only my opinion. I'll stand behind anything you decide to do. I'll be a great looking car in any configuration. Dig in, I'll be watching and enjoying. Mark L

Marks63PontiacGasser

· #4 · Jul 8, 2011

Just remember that your Chevy 350 that you talked about will be a rear sump oil pan. That could haunt you with the rear steering box. But no way of knowing until you get the engine dropped into the car. OR!!! Just move the engine back into the front seat. Your front seat into the rear seat and POOOOFFF, problem gone. HEH! Mark L

Str8axle

· #5 · Jul 8, 2011

I have a front sump set up for a small block on the shelf in my garage. When you get to that point, pm me if you need it.

Marks63PontiacGasser

· #6 · Jul 9, 2011

Early Novas used the front sump. Could go that route. Mark L

TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 22, 2011

Str8axle said:
I have a front sump set up for a small block on the shelf in my garage. When you get to that point, pm me if you need it.

I think I may take you up on that offer when I get there...Thanks! Its getting closer and would be a lot further if I wasn't replacing half the floor. I new it had some rust but didn't realize how bad it was till I jumped into it.. Oh well, its nothing that can't be made better.

TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 25, 2011 (Edited)

4

Well I got the engine & tranny out today (223cid I6 & 3spd on the tree). I'm off tomorrow so will start the boxing & cleaning up the frame process, need to come up with a plan of attack & take lots of measurements. So here is some pic's with the engine out & a couple of pic's of the 355cid SBC thats going in it.

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TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 25, 2011 (Edited)

3

Marks63PontiacGasser said:
Perfect gasser material. But like I mentioned in your other post. I think you should radius the wheelwells. Just my opinion here, that low wheelwell opening does not look right once all the other cues are present on that car. Mark L

Mark this is the stance I want..well cross between the two.. I dont want to radius the wheel opening cuz I like the fender opening & the way it flares out and I dont want to take away from that, but ya never know I may change my mind later. I think it will still look right. Look at this '52 Ford and this wagon.

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mt94ss

· #10 · Jul 25, 2011

Something's happening with your picture posts. It's good to see some progress with your car!

Mike

Marks63PontiacGasser

· #11 · Jul 25, 2011

Yup. No pics. Mark L

TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jul 25, 2011 (Edited)

Sorry guys fixed the pic problem, don't know what happened?

1937Austin

· #13 · Jul 25, 2011

That engine will look terrific in your Ford gasser!

TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jul 26, 2011

1946Austin said:
That engine will look terrific in your Ford gasser!

Thanks! I'm probably gonna change the engine block / upper plenium color.

More progress today, I removed all the old front suspension stuff today and started scrapping & wire wheeling the frame. Although I didn't get as far as I wanted (58yr old rusted bolts = torch & PB Blaster), I'm happy with my progress. I'll post some pictures up tomorrow.

1937Austin

· #15 · Jul 26, 2011

Yep those old bolts can be a pain! I was actually glad when some of mine broke, as it ended the ordeal. But some of mine were captured nuts and couldn't access the other side! I had to drill and tap the broken bolts out to be able to reuse some.

TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · #16 · Aug 2, 2011 (Edited)

4

Well..... I played hooky from work today & managed to get a little further & Gees is it HOT!. I guess the hardest part was planning all the cuts & trying to keep it as square as possible at the same time. Here are some pic.'s of the progress.

I need some help figuring out what to do to the front... square box it in?, round bar across the front?, bullnose it? Decisions...Decisions

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TexasRatTrap

Discussion Starter · #17 · Aug 2, 2011

Last pic.

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Str8axle

· #18 · Aug 2, 2011

How heavy is that hunk of crossmember you took out?
Are you trimming any more from those spring pockets?

mt94ss

· #19 · Aug 2, 2011

That looks great. I would trim off the rest of the pocket/perch and box the frame in all the way to the front. You can round off the front of the frame and use a piece of tubing about the same size as a front crossmember. There are several 'universal' engine crossmembers depending on your powerplant. That should make it strong enough. You are running a straight axle, right?

Mike

p.s. Don't mind my mad graphic skills on the photo. But this is what I was thinking to cut off. It would clean it up alot.

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1937Austin

· #20 · Aug 2, 2011

I think I'd cut the heads off all those rivets and then just knock that whole spring pocket out of there. You wont need any of it for the axle or the shock mounting.

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