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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure where this goes so figured I would put it here. I have a mini starter on my 383 in my 1957 chevy with a Lakewood bell housing. It bolts to the bell housing not the block. I had to knock a piece out of the block plate to mount it to the bell housing (the block plate is stamped to allow either the engine mount starter or the bell housing mount which i knocked out the plate to mount mine). When I go to start it it kicks the motor really bad ( thats the only way I can describe it). It will turn over quickly like it should but it also at times catches and sort of kicks the engine really hard. It is a late model engine with a roller cam and the one piece rear seal. Is this the wrong starter mounting (bell housing mount) for this year block..did I need the later model starter that bolts to the engine?
 

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I haven't mixed with later one piece main blocks yet. But I really don't like the idea of the starter mounting to the bell housing and not the block itself. I wish I could help on this. I was using a mini starter and it kicked and chipped the flywheel teeth so I went back to the factory starter and it's fine now after changing my damaged flywheel.
Mario
 

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My results with a mini starter echo Mario's. I had on eon the Austin and it also took out the teeth on the flexplate. So when I replaced the flexplate, I also replaced the mini starter with a full sized starter. There's a lot of torque there, and even more with your 383, and I'd definitely go with a block mounted starter, and a full sized too, if you have room for it.
 

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One of my problems was the bolts I used didn't have the wide shoulder on them so the starter must have moved on me while using it.
Mario
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I called the company that built my engine and also pre installed the starter and they are sending me out a new starter free of charge. I think thats pretty cool, but it also throws up a flag to me that maybe they have issues with the starter they use. Will let you know how the replacement starter works. Should be here by Friday!
 

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Are they sending a block mount or another bellhousing mount? Problem with a bellhousing mount is not just flex, it's alignment. Tough to get them perfect when they can't be shimmed. Make sure you inspect the flexplate well too! Those kick outs can damage teeth!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sending me a block mount! I went under the car to see if possibly the starter was loose. When I grabbed it to try and move it I felt the solenoid release and go back into the starter! So it seems like the one that came with it it sticking!
 

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That's usually a sign of misalignment between the starter and the flexplate teeth. I've had that issue where I could tap the starter, or wiggle it a bit and the solenoid plunger dropped back out. It needs to be shimmed to align, but the bellhousing type mount wont allow shims to fix misalignment. The block style will work better, and it can be shimmed. A bit of a paint on a mini starter, as the solenoids don't come off easy, and it's tough to push them in to see how the teeth on starter and flexplate fit together. I've found a 1/16" allen wrench will fit up in the space at the bottom of the teeth if clearance is acceptable. If it wont, it needs shims to open the gap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure how I am going to check for alignment with the bell housing and tranny in place.. Crap!
 

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It's not easy, but sometimes you can feel for alignment. If you can pull the solenoid off the starter, you can manually pull the plunger and feel how it engages the teeth. A quick pull will engage it into the teeth if all is well. If it wont pull into the teeth, then try a shim, and test it again until it engages. Then put the solenoid back on it, and you're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So i can pull the plunger out and try sliding the starter in..if it goes in ok then probably do not need the shim..if not then try again with the shim and see how that works. Does that sound like a plan?

Hope so because I got the replacement starter in today.. I will see tomorrow! I am sure the kicking back was also a bad starter issue so hopefully all will be cured tomorrow. If not I will just go with a stock starter!
 

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No Dave. Pull the solenoid off, mount the starter snug, then try pulling the plunger in. If it goes in to engage the teeth, then it should be good to go. Give it a couple tries this way, as without the motor turning, they might hang up a little. Once it goes in, then pull it out and back in to double check. If it doesn't go at all, then shim it until it does. Once you can pull the plunger for the solenoid by hand and it engages the teeth, then you can reinstall the solenoid and you should have it fitted true. Once it goes in, you should be able to feel if the teeth are dragging as you pull it in and out.
Hope that made sense? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Kinda confused How I can pull the plunger when I can't get to the gear to pull it after its snugged up?

Guess I will treat it like setting up a chevy rear and put some white grease on the starters gear teeth..snug it up and try starting it a few times..then pull it back out and look at the pattern on the teeth and go from there.
 

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You're confusing the geared drive with the solenoid plunger. The plunger is inside the solenoid, and when the solenoid applies power it sucks the plunger out, and pushes the geared drive into the flywheel. So once you remove the solenoid, you'll see the plunger, and simply grab it and pull to engage the geared drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ahhhh thats clears things up..yes I was confusing the two thanks... That works alot easier..
 
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