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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What have some of you guys done to level off your cars so that the rear sat higher than stock as well, Im still in the middle of my front axle install and am at a standstill while I wait for more parts so I figured Id look at my rear end.

I really like the way this Chevy sits, at this point my car has leaf springs with coil over shocks which help it too sit highe than stock but still not quite level with the front.

I know I can have the rear springs re-arched but Ive read that the arch wont last long ( dont know if thats true ) and I am not sure how I would measure things to be able to tell my local spring shop to do what with what?
 

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old leafs will not hold a re- arch forever and will sag with time you need to get your stance and tire size where its going to be cause it will effect caster since caster is set to level ground and not the frame...the picture is more of what is refereed to as a street freak....but what matters is what YOU like...like the song goes ...its your thing do what you want to do....
 

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I would bet the '55 in your picture has had the axle relocated to below the springs, vs. above as they were stock. With a leaf spring rear, this is the best and easiest way to gain about 7" of height. If more is desired a new set of springs added at the same time will get it. I did this, plus new springs on my Falcon to get it up where I wanted. Not street freak height still, as I had to radius the rear fenders still to get my slicks to clear.
Early picture during mockup, still with stock springs. I also swapped out the old axle for an 8.8" Ford posi, and later new spring packs.



On a 4 link or ladder bar setup it's simply a case of setting it up when you install these systems to get the height you want.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would bet the '55 in your picture has had the axle relocated to below the springs, vs. above as they were stock. With a leaf spring rear, this is the best and easiest way to gain about 7" of height. If more is desired a new set of springs added at the same time will get it. I did this, plus new springs on my Falcon to get it up where I wanted. Not street freak height still, as I had to radius the rear fenders still to get my slicks to clear.
Early picture during mockup, still with stock springs. I also swapped out the old axle for an 8.8" Ford posi, and later new spring packs.



On a 4 link or ladder bar setup it's simply a case of setting it up when you install these systems to get the height you want.

Is that your falcon? Man that thing looks good, I am jealous. I like that body so much better than the one I am working on, not crazy about the tires sticking out but on that car Im not hating it either. Do you have more pictures you could post, maybe that build thread you mentioned before is showing its pictures now?

My axle on the 67 is already under the springs, I thought that was stock set-up but maybe Im wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would bet the '55 in your picture has had the axle relocated to below the springs, vs. above as they were stock. With a leaf spring rear, this is the best and easiest way to gain about 7" of height. If more is desired a new set of springs added at the same time will get it. I did this, plus new springs on my Falcon to get it up where I wanted. Not street freak height still, as I had to radius the rear fenders still to get my slicks to clear.
Early picture during mockup, still with stock springs. I also swapped out the old axle for an 8.8" Ford posi, and later new spring packs.



On a 4 link or ladder bar setup it's simply a case of setting it up when you install these systems to get the height you want.

I hate to admit what a dummy I am, I just looked at pict. of my car and I can clearly see that my axle is on top of my springs, ( what a dummy ) Ok I know better than that so thats an easy fix
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
old leafs will not hold a re- arch forever and will sag with time you need to get your stance and tire size where its going to be cause it will effect caster since caster is set to level ground and not the frame...the picture is more of what is refereed to as a street freak....but what matters is what YOU like...like the song goes ...its your thing do what you want to do....
I know that is why I was asking now, I figured nows the time........I cant tell you how those words made me felt as I read your post.....street freak, I have heard that before, it was a very long time ago and havent heard it since, oddly it brings back vague memories of something, I just cant remember what but a good feeling nonetheless.

Ok Im building a street freak now, not a gasser and Im lovin it. Thanks for making this post :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
old leafs will not hold a re- arch forever and will sag with time you need to get your stance and tire size where its going to be cause it will effect caster since caster is set to level ground and not the frame...the picture is more of what is refereed to as a street freak....but what matters is what YOU like...like the song goes ...its your thing do what you want to do....
This guy said it best..........

It's kinda like there is a big box in the corner that's labeled "car people". Inside that box is a bunch more boxes and one of 'em is labeled "hotrodders". Inside that box is a bunch more boxes and one of 'em says "traditional hotrodders". Inside that box is a bunch more and one of them says...................................... You get the picture. Just pick the box you like and build your car to those standards. In other words, build it like you want and don't worry about what other folks think. Unless you're building it for the other folks approvel and not your own.
 

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Just my 5 cents and good luck whatever you do... I find it funny when someone tries to tell me what a Gasser is or isn't...! I'm just going to go build it how I want. Not that I'm trying to rile anyone's feathers. Straight axles are cool, stance.....high, but not way high. Do NOT OVERDO the "height" thing or you will just get a cartoon look. Hood on and tilt hoods are cool but not essential. Rear tires should be big but not too far out of the body. Your car might look gasser with your rear fenders cut out for the slicks, small fronts and a little header showing. It's got to be safe front brakes, etc. and everything working as it should. Have fun. Great looking bird Vall.
 

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I personally have always liked the look of old gassers with the slicks hanging outside the body a bit. How much is up to the owner, but my Falcon is just over 1" and exactly what I was going for. I trimmed a fair amount of metal out of the original wheelwell opening, as early Falcons have very small rear openings.



But I wanted a finished look to the opening, so I cut a pair of front fender lips off a wrecked '78 Mercedes and used them to weld on my radiused openings and make a finished look. It allowed me to not have to raise the car too high and still let the slicks hang out a bit. Just what I wanted.





 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just my 5 cents and good luck whatever you do... I find it funny when someone tries to tell me what a Gasser is or isn't...! I'm just going to go build it how I want. Not that I'm trying to rile anyone's feathers. Straight axles are cool, stance.....high, but not way high. Do NOT OVERDO the "height" thing or you will just get a cartoon look. Hood on and tilt hoods are cool but not essential. Rear tires should be big but not too far out of the body. Your car might look gasser with your rear fenders cut out for the slicks, small fronts and a little header showing. It's got to be safe front brakes, etc. and everything working as it should. Have fun. Great looking bird Vall.
I could not agree more
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I personally have always liked the look of old gassers with the slicks hanging outside the body a bit. How much is up to the owner, but my Falcon is just over 1" and exactly what I was going for. I trimmed a fair amount of metal out of the original wheelwell opening, as early Falcons have very small rear openings.



But I wanted a finished look to the opening, so I cut a pair of front fender lips off a wrecked '78 Mercedes and used them to weld on my radiused openings and make a finished look. It allowed me to not have to raise the car too high and still let the slicks hang out a bit. Just what I wanted.





Mercedes? Couldnt you have found something Ford (theres supposed to be a smiley emoticon here )
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I decided this A.M to go ahead and see what it would look like and I couldnt be happier, its amazing that the car sits nearly perfectly level now ( or it will once drivetrain is installed )

The car is sitting now under its own weight.

I have things just sitting there now, nothings welded yet but Ill wait to do all of that after I mock up my engine. I plan to see if i can raise it up some and move it back a little, I know nothing about any of that but cant be too hard.

Anyway I hope everyone enjoys it as well and I have a few questions that Ill post below
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Two questions ( maybe ) :)

How do I measure for new shocks, not sure where to begin now finding what I need, they originally mounted under the spring to the plates shown but now thats not gonna work so not even clear how to mount new ones?

They went on up into the floor like any typical Ford of the era would.
 

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Two questions ( maybe ) :)

How do I measure for new shocks, not sure where to begin now finding what I need, they originally mounted under the spring to the plates shown but now thats not gonna work so not even clear how to mount new ones?

They went on up into the floor like any typical Ford of the era would.
If you want to use the stock shock locations at spring plate and trunk pan, then simply measure from the spring plate shock eye center, to the trunk pan. Then check that against the stock shock, if it's an eye and stud combo. If not, you can go to Monroe's shock chart to identify a shock absorber that has the same length, and ends.

This chart gives all sorts of styles, lengths, and mounting types. Bottom of the reference pages gives codes for each end of the shock.

http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf

I used this chart to find a shock that would fit my Falcon and the new mounting points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you want to use the stock shock locations at spring plate and trunk pan, then simply measure from the spring plate shock eye center, to the trunk pan. Then check that against the stock shock, if it's an eye and stud combo. If not, you can go to Monroe's shock chart to identify a shock absorber that has the same length, and ends.

This chart gives all sorts of styles, lengths, and mounting types. Bottom of the reference pages gives codes for each end of the shock.

http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf

I used this chart to find a shock that would fit my Falcon and the new mounting points.
Thanks, I had not see this, I remember reading something about taking the measurement and doing something with that to come up with just the right size, Ill have to see if I can find that
 
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