And... I hate to be a bearer of bad news, and I'm not trying to sound like Mr. knowitall. BUT.... you need to run that tie rod BEHIND the axle. I noticed in your pic it looked like it was in front, that's why I asked. Hopefully you are still mocking stuff up and haven't committed a bunch of fab work to this setup yet. If you run it in front with those steering arms, your ackerman will be all messed up.
A brief explanation - The distance between the tie rod holes is LESS than the distance between your kingpins. If the steering tie rod is located behind the axle, draw an imaginary line from your kingpin to the tie rid end on each side, those imaginary lines should intersect somewhere right around the 3rd member on your rear axle. This helps the car turn correctly.
If you mount that tie rod in front, draw those imaginary lines again. The lines will splay out somewhere OUTSIDE the rear wheels. No good. There are specific steering arms to use the tie rod in front of the axle, but on those the distance of the tie rod holes is GREATER than the distance between king pins.It's a safety and driveability issue.
Again, I am meaning to be helpful not critical. That's what we are here for.
Here are a couple pics to help explain, Maybe google "ackerman steering" to do a little research. And I am going to put a thread linked here in the steering section so we can all help you out.
I'm afraid I can't be of much help since my tie rods are also in front of the axle, and I'm using the same Speedway brackets. Handles great, and I haven't had any strange issues with it. Runs down the highway nicely at any speed, and corners well too.
In reality once the angles are setup, the front axle doesn't know which side the tie rod and brackets are on. If the front wheels and the angle from kingpin to tie rod end is determined, the tie rod and brackets can be on the front or the rear with no difference.
When I set mine up (prior to mounting the steering box) I had it in the rear, and figured all the angles. After realizing I had no room for the rear mounting point, I moved the box forward and flipped the brackets to the front.
There are numerous examples of solid axles and independent front suspension with steering rods in front of the axle or spindles. I know the Ackerman theory says the brackets should be wider than the kingpins when in front, but I have yet to see that in practice on factory setups I've looked at.
Hope this makes sense.
It's true that not all hot rods are built following the exact rules for suspension and steering geometry. I however feel that if there is an opportunity to build it correctly it should be done so. Attempting to follow the ackerman rules at least as close as possible will create proper dynamic (changing) toe and prevent tire scrubbing and increased tire wear. This is probably least noticeable on skinny front tires, however.
Anyhow, it's something that I felt should be pointed out and corrected if possible. Cheers
I totally agree Craig! If at all possible the traditional Ackerman should be used, and rear steer is best, but if it can't be used then the front steer shouldn't stop someone from building. I don't know about tire scrub and wear yet, as I've only got about 9,000 miles on this setup, but time will tell.
The brackets for either side can work, but slight modification might be needed to use on the other side when flipped. I have a friend who used them that way and cut the tabs off and flipped them over. Then had a good welder weld the tabs back on, and add two gussets to increase strength even more. It's been working well for years.