Gasser HotRod Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 57 Chevy and am using a Lakewood Bell Housing with my Muncie Transmission. I also have an 11 inch Zoom Kevkar Pressure Plate and Diaphram Clutch. What Throwout Bearing do I use , Shirt or Long , and do Zi need to use the adjustable clutch arm mounting bolt? I have heard that you always need to use the adjustable clutch arm mounting bolt when you use the Lakewood (especially with a Diaphram clutch). What have others done?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,524 Posts
I assume you mean a diaphragm pressure plate Dave? The adjustable pivot ball is an option, but I don't use one with my Lakewood. I honestly can't remember if I used the long or short ball, but there's only two choices. Which you use depends on which clutch fork you use, so they need to match each other. It's a case of bolting the clutch and pressure plate on, then installing the arm, and seeing where it sits when it's in place. Which throwout bearing you have will also factor in, and there are two lengths for those also.
Once you have it all together, you'll be able to see where it all sits, and determine if you have to go longer/shorter on the ball, or shorter/longer on the throwout bearing. Without seeing everything you're dealing with, it's tough to say what you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Val..i took the tranny out today and the old throwout came out in two pieces with a lot of little ball bearings as well! I am pretty sure I had it adjusted correctly as I never heard the breaging at all until it gave up the ghost!
Had a short bearing in there so cleaned out the carnage and installed the new short throwout. I then adjusted the freeplay to between 1" - 1 1/2". The clutch engages great and it shifts smoothly! Hopefully this one lasts!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree on crappy parts.

On the other hand my friend who has a 1955 Gasser with a 383, lakewood bell housing, zoom 11 inch clutch setup, Muncie 4-speed (Same exact setup as mine), but he uses all the stock 1955 clutch linkage (where I use my stock 57 linkage). We took out his throwout as it was not allowing the clutch to engage and not able to shift gears. So we took it all apart, added a Lakewood adjustable clutch fork ball ( set it up for the correct 4.75 measurement from end of ball to the block taking into account the block plate). On my car we used the short throwout bearing..we tried to use the short but there was not enough adjustment in the rod from the z-bar to the fork. So we used the long throwout bearing. That gave us the needed adjustment. However...even though we have the correct free play, when we release the clutch pedal we can still hear the throwout bearing spinning..or at least what we suppect to be the throwout. The clutch engages nicely, the muncie shifts great, and the free play is also set correctly. So any idea what we can do differenty or could it be that his input shaft bearing and clutch are all brand new with only 40 miles on them and could it be it just needs to break in some. In contrast mine has about 1,000 miles on my engine and clutch setup!
Any ideas..comments!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,524 Posts
My gut feeling is maybe the angles. If the fork is not allowing the throwout bearing to sit square on the shaft, then even the proper clearances wont work. If it's trying to angle the bearing on the shaft, then it will always spin. If you have a one piece Lakewood, then it's hard to see if things are square with everything assembled. The arm needs to be parallel to the pressure plate in the static position, and the length of the pivot ball and arm style will determine if the throwout bearing sits straight on the input shaft of the trans.

Here's a really good site that gives you info on getting everything aligned properly:
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Clutch_Linkage_Installation_Tips.pdf
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top