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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so my latest quest to build a gasser I have decided to build my 77 Olds Cutlass into a gasser I know it's unconventional but I figured just work with what I got so my question is do I keep the front stub clean everything off that in not needed or do I just cut it all off and start with a new stub? Mind you this is going to be a shoestring budget .
 

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The metal for stubbing the frame wont add a lot to the cost of your build money wise. It will add some fabrication time, but that's time well spent, as once it's in the axle/springs, and motor mounting will be easier and cleaner! If you have the skills to stub the frame, and tools to do so, I would certainly stub it. It will also lighten the front.
Be sure if you stub it that you don't do so until you've chosen your axle/spring combination. You'll want to be sure you end up with the rails matching the spring width. Motor mounts can be made to work with almost any frame width.
 

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Agreed. Going with the original will just create more problems and expense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So right now as the car sits the track from center of tire to center of tire is 61 1/2 is that what I need to shoot for with the straight axle ? Or do I go from backing plate to backing plate for the measurement?
 

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I thought when you order a tube axle they measured from king pin to king pin. Center to center. It's been a while for me. Speedway techs are available for questions weekdays till 5pm central time. I'm sure the veterans here have you covered.
 

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Yes, axles are measured from kingpin to kingpin, and then add a set amount for spindles to get the backing plate measurement. That's the measurement you really want, as wheel offset will affect track width. On Speedway's axles they list adding 8" to the kingpin measurement to get to the backing plate to plate width. If you pull your wheels off, you can measure plate to plate, and deduct 8" to get kingpin centers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so now I got a pretty good idea where I'm heading with the front now how about the back on this car it has a factory 4 link with coil springs my question is do I build around a coil spring set up or take it all out and go leaf springs and ladder bars?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I had a little bit of luck I was able to find and buy a complete front stub that was cut off a 1957 Chevy Suburban. The guy I got it from cut it out so he could put in a Camaro subframe .And from my measurements I should be able to use the complete stub on my car short of fabing up some pieces to make a flip front this ahould save me ALOT of time on that. Now got to usee if I can find some coilovers that someone didn't use or use much make some ladderbars find me a 8.8 or 9" rearend got a line on a guy who can do a rollcage etc.etc. could possibly have this back to a roller by the end of the year LOL.
 

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Hey its a start Steve. keep it up and before you know it the year would have flown by.
 

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Steve, check out the local wrecking yards that carry some import cars. The Jaguar sedans used a heavy coilover shock, and they would be a very close match to what your car will need. Make sure you buy or build an adjustable lower mount, so you can set ride height exactly where you want when it's done. I bought the jaguar coilover shocks for my Austin from a local rod builder who was buying old Jaguars to rob front and rear suspensions. He had piles of good coilovers in his barn, and sold me a pair for $40. They turned out to be too stiff for my light car, and I eventually went to QA1 coilovers.
Be sure to go through that old Chevy axle before putting it under your car, so kingpins, and tierod ends are in good shape and not loose!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was planning on it not to mention I'd like to switch over to disk brakes. Does that guy still have any of those coilovers or do you still have the ones you had being down in the back right now prevents me from doing alot I can't even drive right now.
 
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