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Discussion Starter · #183 · (Edited)
Been working on getting the Gas Gauge to work..I think I have it narrowed down to the Sending unit but I have to take it out of the fuel cell so I can bench test it to be sure...has anyone ever taken the sending unit out from a fuel cell before? I do have a spare for the fuel cell however Its for a summit fuel cell not a jegs so I think i will have to cut a 2 inch hole in the fuel cell for the summit sender to work in the jegs fuel cell. Problem there is cutting a hole in a fuel cell...using a hole saw to cut the hole in a fuel cell that used to contain gas...would the hole saw create a spark in aluminum??? Hopefully i can take the sender out too test it..and fix it if there is an issue, or maybe jegs sells the needed fuel sender that fits their aluminum fuel cells. Guess those questions will be answered tomorrow! Ugh!!!

Other than that...as an update the wheel bearing I replaced has not leaked a bit..so success there at least!

So whats next... I had saved enough to buy the Aluminum heads so I can rebuild the engine for more power..heheh hoo hehe ( sorry that was my Tim the Tool-man impression). But as life tends to do I used the money instead for some house renovation projects and to buy some more parts for my 1957 Seeburg 100JL restoration. As for the house renovation stuff its actually Garage stuff. I bought more shelves and a Garage-pak Air Compressor 1/2 line setup to run air throughout my garage. I have been using my Craftsman 110v Air Compressor, but have a nice Ingersoll-rand 80 gal 220v compressor that I have yet to hook up! Have also been doing a major cleaning on my garage so I can move around in there and have the room to pull the engine when the time comes.

So not much happening on the build at this time..not to mention that both myself and my wife work for the Government and as such we have to each take 11 days off " with out Pay"... Thanks to Mr Obama! So thats a total of 4 days a payday without pay..a 20% reduction in our pay... So have to watch the money so we can pay the bills and such! As you can tell I am none to happy about it! Love the day off..hate the no pay!!
 

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I wouldn't do any cutting of the fuel cell. Fresh fuel in a cell is flammable and explosive. Best work on the sending unit. With the key on First test the wire from the gauge. See if it has low voltage going through it. If the wire has voltage then go to the dash gauge and check for E or F on the gauge. Is the indicator at empty or Full with the wires all connected. Empty indicates an empty tank or a ground resistance in the wire going to the gauge or maybe a Pinched wire grounding on the way up to the dash if tank is full. If the gauge is on full and the tank is not full then you have an open circuit either in the wire going up to the gauge or the sending unit itself has an open circuit. If the guage in the dash does not react to pulling a wire on and off or a ground condition then the dash gauge is bad. Tank sending unit is simple to fix unless its damaged. Just take and ohm meter and connect to it on a bench. move the float and watch the ohms increase and decrease as you move the float. Some times the coil windings get tarnished and need cleaning or the lever that slides across doesn't contact the coil enough. Carb cleaner and or a light scuff with a scotch brite might work to save the coil windings. Hope this didn't confuse you. I've done this quite a few times with success when the tank sender was not working on an few older cars I bought. Val also encountered the same situation. Hope this helped.
MM
 

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First test should be an ohm meter to see if it has resistance from terminal to ground. Then move the float arm to see if it changes. That will tell if it's good, and also give you the range to ensure it's correct for your fuel gauge. It will also show if it makes good contact throughout the travel. I'd remove it from the tank for these tests.
I don't think you'll get sparks on aluminum if you cut on it, but you can dump the gas and fill it with water while cutting, and it surely wont cause a problem then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Thanks all..I have tested the gauge and it tests out correctly, so its not the gauge. Looks like this week I will replace the wire leading to the sender from the gauge so I will know thats good. If I still have the same issue I will then take out the Sender to bench test and hopefully fix that as that will be the last problem ( or cure??)! Will keep you all updated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Thanks all..I have tested the gauge and it tests out correctly, so its not the gauge. Looks like this week I will replace the wire leading to the sender from the gauge so I will know thats good. If I still have the same issue I will then take out the Sender to bench test and hopefully fix that as that will be the last problem ( or cure??)! Will keep you all updated!

Final update to my non-working fuel Gauge... "It Works!"

So after all the testing of the gauge and replacing the original wiring with new wiring the fuel gauge still would not read correctly. So I took the fuel sender out of my fuel cell. And was going to do a bench test when I noticed a wire hanging from the sender (looks like it was busted). The rheostat portion was also broken and what looked like a rubber insulator was also torn and dry rotted. So no sense in trying to fix that piece of junk. I had a spare fuel cell sender sitting on the shelf, so i adapted the Summit fuel sender to the Jegs fuel cell and it works like a champ. First time in over five years that the fuel gage has worked..thank for the helps everyone!
 

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Final update to my non-working fuel Gauge... "It Works!"

So after all the testing of the gauge and replacing the original wiring with new wiring the fuel gauge still would not read correctly. So I took the fuel sender out of my fuel cell. And was going to do a bench test when I noticed a wire hanging from the sender (looks like it was busted). The rheostat portion was also broken and what looked like a rubber insulator was also torn and dry rotted. So no sense in trying to fix that piece of junk. I had a spare fuel cell sender sitting on the shelf, so i adapted the Summit fuel sender to the Jegs fuel cell and it works like a champ. First time in over five years that the fuel gage has worked..thank for the helps everyone!
Awesome, I always sleep good after a happy ending. LOL
Great Job.
mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
So whats next????
Well...for now just going to enjoy driving her for the summer..when it cools down I am going to pull the front dog-house (front fenders and hood), and pull the radiator. Then pull the engine and tranny. i pan on rebuilding the engine and give her a complete refresh and paint. Then while the engine is out I plan on detailing the firewall/ engine bay and since i have the room i will work on the tilt front-end.. Then bolt everything back together ... Tilt front-end, newly detailed engine bay/ firewall, and freshly rebuilt and detailed engine ( but with the new tunnel-ram and dual 4 barrels!!!). Gonna bea fun rest of the summer and a really fun winter time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
I have been pretty busy at the start of winter. Been mostly posting on the Tri-five site but I thought I had better post here as well on my current updates. I finished up on the 383 engine install today. The last thing I had to do was to cut the hood and install the Hilborn style scoop.

I am still not done with my build and will keep posting updates as they happen. I need to hook up my Tach and Voltmeter. Also need to get the fuel level gauge working..."AGAIN"! Still have lots to do in the interior and I am always going to be fine tuning both the new engine and the suspension! Lots to still do..but then again they are never really done!

Pictures of the completed Engine Bay:




A Coming right atcha' Picture:


Some Nice Side Pictures:




 

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Looks awesome. Great job.
Mario
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
Was in the mid 70's here so took the car to a friends house just to put some miles on the new engine. Drove terrific with the new 600 cfm carbs I switched to from the 450 Holley's! I also switched out the old rusted front turn signal bar, hood rockets and head-light trim rings!
Right now I am under the weather but as soon as I feel up to it I plan on adding new dash trim and carpet to the interior!

New picture of the 600 CFM vacuum carbs installed:

 

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Very cool, looks awesome. What Holley part number are those carbs. Just curious as to whether you put them on without having to touch them or not. Mounting sideways can sometimes be a tuning challenge.
mario
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 · (Edited)
Very nice looking Dave! Getting to be a very showy gasser there!
Thanks Val..with your extremely cool Falcon and Austin I appreciate your input!

The 600 cfm Holley's are the stock Vacuum secondary carbs..that have mechanical chokes. I had to dissemble the forward carbs choke and wire the choke wide open to clear the rear carb for clearance. I also wired the rear choke wide open altho I do have the room as it cleared the firewall, but the main difference is I left the choke assembly intact in case I decide to run the mechanical choke cable. We really don' need to use the chokes here in San Antonio, TX. They are as they came directly out of the box and as I said i currently idle at about 800 rpms which allows the cam's thump to really come through. Will probably try it at about 900 rpm's to see how it reacts off idle! The small bog I am feeling might be cured by testing my vacuum and getting the correct Power Valves, but as I said its so small I can live with it! Man.....does the engine show a lot of Power though with those 600's.

So now I am saving for the next big purchase, which will be a new stronger Rear end. I currently running the stock 57 rear 3:73 without Posi. Would love to find a period correct Olds rear, but will settle for a Nine inch with 4:11's... Its not period correct but they are fairly cheap and you can't deny their strength!
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
I added a set of Gas Nozzles to the 600 CFM carbs. I checked the old set and they were #31's so I went up 4 sizes to a #35. They are easy to install if I didn't have a huge Tunnel Ran that he Carbs are sitting on..LOL But after climbing into the front between the Grill and Radiator I could lean over far enough to get to the rear carb and remove the Phillips screw and then use a pair of needle nose plyers to remove the Nozzle . Then I gingerly removed the Gasket betwen the Carb and Nozzle. I then replaced the Gasket with a new one and used the needle nose to slide the new Nozzle in place and tightened them down and was set! I took the car out for a test drive and it was probably 99.9% better! I have not adjusted the carb Idle set screws yet and I think That will probably get the other .1%!

SoI had time to adjust the Carbs and as a test I drove the Gasser to work today so I could use the Garage we have there (Its a 6 car stall Garage!). The drive was awesome!! No surging, No off idle Bog..drove as well as when I had the single 4 barrel. But even better was the instant acceleration I had when I floored the car..way better then the single 4 and man does she fly!! The car is again a pleasure to drive!

Now I have a small heat issue that I need to work on. I am running a Fiberglass fan and the car runs cool down the road...I can put a sheet of paper on the front of the radiator and it stays put so I know its pulling air. The Thermostat is a 185 degree one. It runs about 185-187 while driving down the road but if I reach any traffic stop or a stop light, The car quickly climbs up to 200 or more (enough to make me feel uncomfortable), but comes back down as soon as I drive again! So that to me means that I am not pulling enough air while stopped. I have a Fiberglas Shroud that I am going to install and see if that helps..If not then I am thinking about a small pusher fan. Problem with a pusher fan its in the front of the grill and restricts exactly what I am trying to gain more of..mainly air flow!! So a few hav stated that I should run a Puller fan without the engine fan...What do others think?
 

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Hey Dave , can you post a pick of the fan and radiator setup? Vall and myself both had some similar issues.
Mario
 

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Those small fiberglass fans usually don't move much air, so I too would like to see your setup. Pusher fans are not the best choice, and can even restrict air flow if used in conjunction with a mechanical fan, since they wont always be at the same speed. Sometimes this means it might cool a little better at low speed, but get hotter at cruise speed.
A shroud might help, but that depends on how much room you have, and where the fan sits in the shroud. It needs to have smooth transition, and blades need to sit right even with the shroud exit opening. I put a shroud on the Falcon, and it actually ran way hotter. Had to stop and get the tools out and remove it so I could get home!
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
I had to cut the bottom of the shroud as the fan hit it there...but had enough shroud to fit and it looks great. I also took the car fora test drive and even let it idle for about 45 min and it never got over 180!
Last weekend I took the Gasser for a short 2 hour drive to Austin TX to attend the Lonestar Roundup! The car did great on the highway ( it ran really well around 65 mph). Made it there without incident! The show was outstanding...prob around 1000 cars in attendance...lots of Gassers too! On the way home we ran into some stop and go traffic and again the Gasser did great...temps outside were about 72 degrees and the car even in stop and go heavy traffic the temps never got over 175 degrees! I think my worries about the heating issue are gone now that I installed the fan shroud!
I also got to see the new speedometer I rebuilt and the speedometer cable I oiled run! This time there was no jumping around of the needle and no noises coming from the speedometer and/or cable. It worked great except for one issue..it reads 15 mph too slow. When going 30 mph it's actually 45, and at 45 it's actually 60 mpg. A friend had an adapter that screws into the speedometer at the transmission and the cable screws into the adapter. Said when he had it on his car he was 15 mph too fast. So he gave it too me to give its try. If it doesn't work I will then have to figure out which plastic gear I need in my Muncie to give me the correct reading!
I also replaced the old faded Belair dash moulding with a new set I got for Christmas! Man does it look much better!

So I still need to get my darn fuel gauge working. I think I have a short in the wire to the sender so will try by replacing that line. Hope it works..that new engine a tunnel ram uses a little more gas so if I make anymore long runs like to Austin I would love to have a dependable gauge to see how much fuel I have!

Next after that is the swap from side to side and front to back of the disc brake rotors on my gasser to get a better angle on my drag link!
 
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