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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
006.jpg 007.jpg 004.jpg 005.jpg 013.jpg Hey you guys I'm still waiting to get into the speed shop thats doing my 2004R swap for the Turbo 350 and a bunch of other stuff.

I have not had the chance to really get the tune exact because its been over 100 degrees for 10 days in a row. I now have a solid understanding of G force's pushing you back into the seat! Seems impossible and a little scary, still have not opened it up enough to kick in the secondary's.

I'm still trying to get a grip on that but I only have 9" of tread width in rear for now, it already feels like slicks would get the front end up.
 

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Great looking hot rod! Congrats on such an awesome build. I like what you did with the exhaust, I'm doing something similar on my build. Did you get the tubing coated or such ?

Oh and the car sounds great as well! I've watched your videos a couple times, makes me smile
 

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Yup G's be a bitch when you get older, kind of like tunnel vision on a drag bike, I used to think of it as focus, but any more it makes my butt pucker a little now, so Iam hanging it up, G,s you will get used to in time, I find my self beating the family car to keep in tune....LOL........Lash, oh its been back in the 90's here to, 15* above normal..... Nova be looking good
 

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Nothing more fun than the first time your car hooks up well enough to lift the front wheels! Looks like the right wheel, with correct backspacing would allow a 10.5 wrinkle wall to sit inside the fenders. With it screwed to the rim, I'd guess your chances of hooking hard would be improved greatly!
A drag radial like an M&H would also fit on the same width wheel you have, and most likely hook almost as good as a slick too. Mine sure hook well.
 

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Hi Craig,
Be sure to have someone take a video after you get your new rear tires so we can all enjoy your first burn out. Do you have a line lock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great looking hot rod! Congrats on such an awesome build. I like what you did with the exhaust, I'm doing something similar on my build. Did you get the tubing coated or such ?

Oh and the car sounds great as well! I've watched your videos a couple times, makes me smile
Thank you so much sir for the kind words, I am very proud of the car and feel like a little kid again. I'm 61 years old, and the only gasser I ever had before was a couple model cars I built in high school. Except for replacing the intake and carb and valve covers the car came just like it is. Another old guy built it on his ranch and that's about all he does, build them and sell them. Yes sir the Dougs Headers are ceramic coated as is the exhaust, really spruces things up and just a little polish with a soft cloth keeps them clean and shiny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nothing more fun than the first time your car hooks up well enough to lift the front wheels! Looks like the right wheel, with correct backspacing would allow a 10.5 wrinkle wall to sit inside the fenders. With it screwed to the rim, I'd guess your chances of hooking hard would be improved greatly!
A drag radial like an M&H would also fit on the same width wheel you have, and most likely hook almost as good as a slick too. Mine sure hook well.
Well the car is set up for 5.5" backspacing and is mini tubbed. I am having the speed shop take measurements and see how fat a tire I can get under it. I had considered Mickey Thompson Sportsmans. But the drag radials honestly sound like a better bet. Also I am switching to Cragar S/S's all around, I just love the look and they go with this kind of car just great.
 

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The new mickey pros are the top of the line for hook in a drag radial. A friend just bought a set and at 20 mph he can't spin them, they hook and go. He has a 434 that runs 10.50's. He could light the 275/ 60 street tires anytime he wanted. Very nice car, that thing is art. Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Craig,
Be sure to have someone take a video after you get your new rear tires so we can all enjoy your first burn out. Do you have a line lock?
Hey Steve, no I don't have a line lock. I briefly considered a trans brake, but it sure looks to be hard on your drivetrain, and no matter how great of a BS story I came up with NO local cop will allow a "Street Outlaws" style take off. I'm no expert, but I have the strong feeling, that my 4 point roll bar wont be enough to let me run at the drags, un less I can hit the brakes or coast a bit. And even then that will most likely be it till I can afford to have all the safety equipment needed to be legal to haul major ass at our strip. My car is too low in the ass end for wheelie bars of the type I know of, and with slicks, my rear bumper is too close to the street with out wheelie bars to not bang the hell out of the bumper and stuff back there.

But most importantly, I really only intend to go to car shows and of course nostalgia drag races. I already have a 200 horse nitrous set up, the tank is mounted in the truck, I fully intend to smoke some of the local guys I have know here for years on the streets. The nitrous is mostly for show, I know these guys so well here that just the sight of my car next to them shaking there car with my exhaust, and snorting nitrous high in the air from the purge vents, will de ball 90% of the all mouth empty shirts that roam around here!

I will have them beat in there heads before I rip them a new one. So since I have the only gasser it appears so far, the word will get out. "Don't mess with old dude in the weird looking Nova"! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The new mickey pros are the top of the line for hook in a drag radial. A friend just bought a set and at 20 mph he can't spin them, they hook and go. He has a 434 that runs 10.50's. He could light the 275/ 60 street tires anytime he wanted. Very nice car, that thing is art. Have fun.
Wow thank you for the heads up! I don't have anything close to the 434 running 10's. Man that's hauling some ass. I will look the Mickeys up...
 

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Hi Craig,
IMHO a trans brake is really a drag strip piece of equipment. That's what's really great, again IMHO, about a line lock on a street car that sees occasional use at the drags; not to mention it's a whole lot cheaper than a trans brake and much easier to install. You have to remember that line locks have been around for a long time now. Even though they were originally primarily for sticks they gained huge popularity and wide spread use in automatics. One of my favorite things to do sometimes at a light is to set the line lock and just smoke the tires and not move, except sideways.
As far as you being 61, shit, me and Vall both have some years on you. If you get stopped by a cop just tell him you had a senior moment of brain fade and got your pedals mixed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi Craig,
IMHO a trans brake is really a drag strip piece of equipment. That's what's really great, again IMHO, about a line lock on a street car that sees occasional use at the drags; not to mention it's a whole lot cheaper than a trans brake and much easier to install. You have to remember that line locks have been around for a long time now. Even though they were originally primarily for sticks they gained huge popularity and wide spread use in automatics. One of my favorite things to do sometimes at a light is to set the line lock and just smoke the tires and not move, except sideways.
As far as you being 61, shit, me and Vall both have some years on you. If you get stopped by a cop just tell him you had a senior moment of brain fade and got your pedals mixed up.

Hey Steve, can you tell me how a line lock works? I mean I know about the switch on the shifter to lock the front brakes to keep you from creeping on the starting line, but I don't know how it goes about it.
I have 4 wheel disc brakes and just don't know how the line lock physically sets the front brakes. I want one!!!

Gary
 

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The line locks work by interrupting the line to the front brakes with an electric solenoid that's switched from the shifter. You pull to a stop at the line, step hard on the brake, hold the push button, and release the brake pedal. At this point the front brakes remain held on until you release the push button.
One thing to remember on a line lock. It doesn't hold as well as your brakes hold with your foot on the pedal! Don't depend on it to keep your car from rolling through the staging lights, or you'll red light! Also, do not easy into the throttle when heating up the tires with the line lock set! You need to hammer the throttle, and keep the button held until the tires are smoking. If you ease into the throttle it will either roll the front tires, or slide them if they hold. On my Austin (with an automatic) I hit it, and shift to 2nd and then 3rd to get tire speed up, but not bump the redline on my engine. On my Falcon (with a 4 speed) I start in 2nd gear, and hammer it. Then leave it in 2nd to get tire speed up, and not over rev the engine.

One other thing I forgot. I use the line lock at the starting line on my stick car. Set it before I stage, and then get ready to launch by bringing up the rpm's, and easing the clutch up until I feel it pull me into the lights and they both come on. On my automatic car I don't use the line lock to stage. Instead I use my brakes to stage, and then hold them hard while I bring the rpm's up against the torque converter. This lets me sort of power brake the car, but not so much as to spin the tires. It allows the rpm's to be higher at launch, and hit my power band easier, for a better launch off the lights.
 

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Hi Gary,
Vall pretty much summed up the workings of the line lock. I personally have never had a problem with red lighting I think because it helps that I don't "deep stage". The one thing he didn't hit on was installation. First you find a spot to mount the solenoid. Next the line coming from your master cylinder to the front brakes is removed and a new one routed to the "in" side of the solenoid. Next a line is then routed from the "out" side of the solenoid to the T where you removed the original line. For this step a double inverted flaring tool is really needed unless you want to coil the new lines which invariably will be to long. Next you mount the button. Two types are readily available. The type that is mounted to the shifter handle or the type that is a replacement shifter knob with a button built in. Make sure you use a relay and fuse for this installation. Don't forget to bleed your front brakes and go terrorize the neighborhood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well Steve, and Vall I certainly thank you both for taking the time to detail the line lock set up. I actually get it! You all have been a world of help to me, and I don't take it for granted, I thank you again.
 

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My local (non chain store) auto parts store carries lines in a variety of lengths, so I've been lucky and not had to use my flaring tool to make up lines for the various line locks I've installed. It's a little more money to buy a line already flared, but they also come with fittings, so not bad on the price. Usually need adapters to connect to the brake master and the solenoid, but my auto parts store has those too. I've gotten where I know one guy there is very fluent in line fittings, so I wait for him and get it all correct the first time.
I just installed a line lock in my friend's '56 Chevy gasser, so he'd have it to use at Gasser Mania last weekend. Only took a couple hours, even with going to the parts store for fittings. I always take all the parts and fittings along, so ensuring it all fits is easier. On the '56 we also converted it to a dual master, so took along the master, solenoid, brake line fittings, etc. Makes it so easy to test fit everything at the store, and then head home and assemble it. All the lines to convert it to dual master, plus fittings for the line lock, and adapters to fit the new dual master, only came to a bit over $30. That included running a new brake line to the front brakes to split them out for the dual master.
 
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