Here is a link to the photo album of what I am working on. It is a 47 Studebaker truck. It will have a 6 inch rod 350 , manual shift turbo 400 , 10 inch 4000 stall converter , Moser 60 with a 4:10 and a spool. https://goo.gl/photos/jtzZLo1vGqsGYxLz5
Here is my build
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
Joined
·
2,938 Posts
Cool ...so are you using a one ton body on a half ton frame??? looks like you have the shop and tools to get her done....truck will have that fat look...I like it
That is what I am doing, I have shifted the body around till I think I have it just right. I have channeled it and am building the floor system to put the rake in the body and for the most part will not have to alter the suspension. But I am moving the rear springs inside the frame rails and will be putting Chrysler Super Stock springs on the rear. I have some nice step side bed sides and will be building the bed. I will probably slid the rear end ahead 6 to 12 inches depending on how it looks with the bedsides on it. And probably will build some trailer fenders for the rear.
Joined
·
2,938 Posts
So it will also be bobbed at the back...there was one like what you are talking abound on ebay a few years back it really looked good....looking forward to seeing it come along
Well maybe , I really won't know until I get farther along. I am thinking the bed will end up being 5 ft long . So not much of a bob
Joined
·
14,015 Posts
Great looking body! If I remember correctly, the only difference in the 1/2 ton cab and yours was the front fenders? I believe cab and hood are the same as a 1/2 ton? Shorty PU's make pretty cool looking gasser trucks! I like them when they're bobbed off behind the fenders, and use trailer fenders instead of factory fenders. As long as the axle doesn't crowd the cab too much it looks great. Like this Willys:
![]()
Joined
·
2,938 Posts
That is really a short one...but really looks cool...leaf spring wheelie bars?? and safe way shopping cart wheels on them??
That is kinda where I am going ? no ladder bars though as I will be running leaf springs and driving it on the street. I am building it from parts I have accumulated over the years. The initial run will in the rough as far as the body. The emphasis will be on safety and the main structure of the cab. As you can see in the photos there is no floor left so I am building the frame work for that first. I have a pretty good start on it. I have rotors for the front spindles but will have to fab up some caliper mounts. The rear axle and brakes are modern so that should cover that. I want the headers dumping behind the front wheels in the wheel opening , so I will have to build those. But I have 2 sets of new fenderwell headers and 2 boxes full of vintage Hedman headers mandrel bends. There is no time frame I just live a day at the time. Plus I buy and sell old car parts and that is always cutting into my time. My build photos https://goo.gl/photos/jtzZLo1vGqsGYxLz5Great looking body! If I remember correctly, the only difference in the 1/2 ton cab and yours was the front fenders? I believe cab and hood are the same as a 1/2 ton? Shorty PU's make pretty cool looking gasser trucks! I like them when they're bobbed off behind the fenders, and use trailer fenders instead of factory fenders. As long as the axle doesn't crowd the cab too much it looks great. Like this Willys:
![]()
Joined
·
14,015 Posts
If you need some caliper brackets, the Chevy 70's or 80's disc brake calipers work very well for most swaps. Depending on whether you got 70's std. or 80's metric, Speedway sells brackets that I've use numerous times for disc brake swaps. They are for 3" axle weld on, but I cut them to fit the spindles, and then drill them to bolt on. $10 ea., so easier than making them too!
I trace them on cardboard, and then cut the cardboard to fit the spindle. Then transfer that back to the bracket to trace where to remove metal. Once bolted on with two bolts, I cut steel and weld it on to get the 3rd bolt hole. These are the brackets:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Weld-On-1969-77-GM-Flat-Mount-Caliper-Bracket,3348.html
I trace them on cardboard, and then cut the cardboard to fit the spindle. Then transfer that back to the bracket to trace where to remove metal. Once bolted on with two bolts, I cut steel and weld it on to get the 3rd bolt hole. These are the brackets:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Weld-On-1969-77-GM-Flat-Mount-Caliper-Bracket,3348.html
Thanks for the tip on the brackets, I am using 75 Camaro rotors as they use the same wheel bearings as the Studebaker drums so I plan on using GM calipers.
I am going post as I go, but I have included the link to some of my photos ( I assume it is working ) my pictures were to big to post here so I have set my camera on a smaller setting and I have not tried it since. With Mario' advice I have resolved that issue. Here is a motor I helped my son set in a 82 Dodge 250 yesterday. We are always in the shop !
Attachments
It has been snowing here in NC today, so it was a nice day to be in the shop. I have been working on building a floor and having the cab securely mounted. The factory only had 2 bolts in the front and 1 in the center rear , so improving on that has been easy. Right now everything is just tacked in place. I have some seat brackets bent up and that is the next step to get those mounted.
Attachments
Joined
·
14,015 Posts
I like the box tubing framework on your floor! Looks great!
Thanks Vall,
I am taking a lunch break right now. I am pleased with how it is looking. It will be easy to bend up some sheet metal to cover it all up. Plus I will have good mounting points for the seats and the belts. I have a main hoop CE roll bar I am putting in it also.
JW
Got back at it after lunch, worked on the seat brackets and mounted a set on one seat. I tried the brackets both ways and am undecided as to which way looks best. The flat edge to the outside or turned the other way and have it under the seat. The brackets will bolt to some square tubing also
Attachments
Joined
·
14,015 Posts
When I saw the first image with closed edge out I said, "That's the one I like!"
Then I saw it with the open edge out, and I liked it better. Only thing I'd add is nice rounded corners on the risers.
I guess my decision would be based on whether I planned to use the area under the seats for any storage, a radio, or??? If no plans for storage space, then I'd leave the open edge out.
Then I saw it with the open edge out, and I liked it better. Only thing I'd add is nice rounded corners on the risers.
I guess my decision would be based on whether I planned to use the area under the seats for any storage, a radio, or??? If no plans for storage space, then I'd leave the open edge out.
No storage , no radio , just something to light the tires up ! But I am undecided which way. Good observation on the corners the first rule is NO SHARP EDGES ANYWHERE
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
