header cut off
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Joined
·
13,523 Posts
Funny you asked, as I just saw a prototype a friend is getting ready to possibly offer. I think it's something most guys with a little fab skill could make. He bought two collector rings and cut a section of side out of one to allow a plate to slide in. Then made a correct thickness plate that was shaped to slide in the side of the opening notch. He made the plate so it had extra outside to allow a hole drilled in the edge, then welded a tab with hole on the matching plate. This allows the plate to be slid out, plus when installed a small padlock or bolt goes through the hole to secure the plate.
I suppose it could also be mounted in such a way as to be able to attach a cable assembly to push-pull and open them from the inside the car also. They looked like they might not totally seal as well when closed as the electric cutouts, but it is an option if you're on a budget.
Electrics are not all super spendy. I bought mine through Badlandz HPE, and got both cutouts, and all the wiring controls for under $300. I think they were about $275, and free shipping then.
http://www.badlanzhpe.com/
I suppose it could also be mounted in such a way as to be able to attach a cable assembly to push-pull and open them from the inside the car also. They looked like they might not totally seal as well when closed as the electric cutouts, but it is an option if you're on a budget.
Electrics are not all super spendy. I bought mine through Badlandz HPE, and got both cutouts, and all the wiring controls for under $300. I think they were about $275, and free shipping then.
http://www.badlanzhpe.com/
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
There used to be manual cut outs with a cable similiar to a choke cable. I haven't seen them around to much lately. Might check (OMG) jc whitney, Speedway or epay. Good luck!
the other Idea ..I am going to fab some elbow extension tubes from my collectors( camaro style exhaust) and run out to behind the tire...I was wondering if I connected my street exhaust right behind the dump (by the tire) then when I pulled the cap, the exhaust would naturally follow out the dump and only partially flow into the street exhaust. Feesible?
Joined
·
2,277 Posts
Those "old fashioned - manually opened exhaust cutouts are still available.... and more than likely DO NOT work any better than they did "back in the day".
The also problem with them is they are made to "only fit" 2 1/4 exhaust tubing. With todays "standard" exhaust tubing being 2 1/2" or 3" they would not fit anyway.
Like Vall I also have a pair of "Badlanz electric cutouts" which I used for the temporary exhaust I had on the Opel when I was "sneaking out" and going to a few car cruises & shows (no head lights - brake lights - turn signals - Lexan windshield & most of all NO inspection sticker) .
When I get to fabbing an exhaust system I plan to somehow "hide" the cutouts under the car much better than I did for the "temporary exhaust" seup I had before. Another idea is not use the 2.5 electric cutouts at all and purchase the 5" ones that could be installed in the collector dump tube with an exhaust coming off a Y-pipe prior to the cutout???? Another one of "those I have to think more about this.
Another cheaper option for you could be having an old school "cutout" or a flange with a block off plate here in place with "tumb screws" which would make it "easy" to "uncap" and allow the exhaust to exit thru the collector instead of going thru the exhaust system/mufflers.
Joined
·
13,523 Posts
The straighter the exhaust flow is when open, the better they will work. If the exhaust route is straighter towards the closed system, then the exhaust will try to take that route, even when the cutout is open. They will get louder and flow a little better, but a straight collector dump is always the optimum.
I've tried other methods, and I could go to the tailpipe and still hear/feel exhaust exiting the tailpipe. This is why I welded my exhaust system into the side of my collector on my Austin, so when the headers are open they're straight out the collector.
![]()
I've tried other methods, and I could go to the tailpipe and still hear/feel exhaust exiting the tailpipe. This is why I welded my exhaust system into the side of my collector on my Austin, so when the headers are open they're straight out the collector.
Joined
·
13,523 Posts
One thing I forgot Bob. The flange ring in the middle needs to not only have one side cut out, but also needs to be relieved a littly internally so the blockoff plate can rest on something and not leak or rattle. Just a cut on the opposite side of the opening, so it can wedge into the cut when secured in place.
Joined
·
2,267 Posts
CCI Inserts
I swear by my CCI inserts. They're available in various chamber configurations, they are tuneable for noise, you don't need to run an exhaust system (much less weight), the car looks like it's running with open headers, they slide into the collector and are held in place with the three collector flange bolts.
To bad you didn't see the 3" pair I had for sale in the classified section. They sold to a guy on Ebay just last week.
I swear by my CCI inserts. They're available in various chamber configurations, they are tuneable for noise, you don't need to run an exhaust system (much less weight), the car looks like it's running with open headers, they slide into the collector and are held in place with the three collector flange bolts.
To bad you didn't see the 3" pair I had for sale in the classified section. They sold to a guy on Ebay just last week.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Join the discussion
