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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Might as well ad another post, seems I'm leading in post here lately. Could anyone tell me what disc brakes I need for my 57 chevy 1/2 ton truck axle? Everything I see is for earlier chevy trucks. I was going to see if speedway had the starter kit, and buy rotors and calipers else where, unless they had a complete kit cheaper. I'd like 11 in rotors, and also which steering arms fit these spindles? I seen what I want in Speedway's catalog but they also are listed for the earlier trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Done a google search and found an ad from Speedway 47 to 59 brake kit, so apparently they're the same.
 

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I found the same thing, are going to use a power brake set up and are you going to change out the rears for wider and larger rear brakes every thing needs to be a balance to function right, master cyld., proportioning valve, blah blah blah there is some good reading on the web,
 

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Yes, a lot of interchangeability within the early Chevy truck axles. Depending on your fab skills, you can save a lot of money putting together your own kit. If you simply buy the caliper brackets and hubs from Speedway, you can buy the calipers, rotors, etc. from a auto parts store, and save a little.
If you can scrounge parts, you can swap on '49-'54 Chevy passenger car drums/hubs. The drums are riveted, but can be removed, to just use the hubs. Then buy a pair of universal Speedway GM brackets for $20, and cut/drill them to match your backing plate bolt pattern, and use GM rotors and calipers. Last one I did cost me about $140 complete.
The steering arms will be an issue, but not too bad. The backing plate spacing is an oddball for Chevy that Speedway doesn't see fit to sell. I bought a pair of steering arms for another model, and then cut one tab off and welded it back on to match the width.
Another option is finding old 50's Chevy passenger car arms and using them. When swapping '55-'57 Chevy cars to a straight axle, I use the driver's side lower arm, and flip it over to use on the passenger side upper location. Keeps the drag link level, and it's free. The hole in the end is tapered, so either need to use a stock tie rod end, or drill it out, and use a bolt and heim end. Lots of old Tri 5 Chevy arms for sale new or used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tell you what I have, complete straight axle, 57 chev trk, explorer 8.8 rearend with disc brakes. I got a alum corvette style MC with a 1in bore. Planning on manual brakes. Axle has steering arms now, planning on heim joints. I was going to install a adjustable P valve for the rear.
 

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Don't see why not. Might even work without the prop valve, but I always put them in, even if they're sometimes not needed.
 

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I just got the prop valve for my '55 cause I got the same 8.8 disc rear and disc fronts. I have a Vette MC and got the prop valve from Cliff's. It's a CPP part for 4-wheel discs. Got my front kit from a guy I saw at the Puyallup swap meet. Has brackets and kit to use 2nd Gen Camaro/Firebird rotors/calipers. Worked really easy. I will check to see if I can find it. Are you making your own lines? I want to try... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, I'll do my own lines. I've been using the new line, copper and nickel content, on a lot of chevy trucks and others around the garage and that stuff is great. Double flares good and bends nice. Plus it doesn't rust. I have found steering arms, Speedway and ebay, I can get the right side with double holes to mount drag link. What I'd like to find is a v3rd arm that I can mount at the top of the spindle to mount the drag link. I would think that would help on keeping it level. Hope that makes sense.
 

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Yes, you'll want the steering arm that the drag link hooks to on the top, to keep it level. If you found the lower arms, then get one more to put on the top. The driver's side lower can be flipped to the passenger side top. That will allow the same arm to work. Might need to cut some bushing spacers and longer bolts to allow it to mount on top.
 
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