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Always fun too watch Bill..thanks for sharing...but I think you need a blower on your ride...The kid didn't piss his pants..............lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #525 · (Edited)
Last night, after working nearly two weeks I finally got the fuel filler hose with the fuel return bung installed so that it worke3s reasonably well. Was able to fill the tank with the pump at half volume without interruption or kicking off. The fuel inlet on the tank is level with the Gas Cap Filler mount on the car. Without extensive body modifications, it is nearly impossible to mount the filler tube to get more than a level position visavis the fuel tank inlet. Adding the return line to the inlet hose created n issue with the fuel flow in the inlet overcoming the capacity as the fuel tended to flow back towards the gas cap and to remain in the tube. With the constant presence of fuel in the filler tube, the joints in the filler tube eventually leaked. I took the line out, installed a new bung in the filler tube that is pointed towards the fuel tank inlet, hoping to reduce the backpressure flow coming towards the Gas cap and to realigne the filler tube so it would drain completely. Was not totally nsuccessful in any endeavor but now at least the tank fills really easily without constantly kicking off the pump, and the backwash of fuel in the filler tube stays at 1/8 inch or lower.

The car seems to run better, less cavitation and aereation in the tank. I am still looking for a way to extend the inner portion of the return fuel bung to the bottom of the tank. I am looking at a new filler tube arrangement that runs the return through and down to the bottom of the tank through the filler inlet. Another approach is to modify the fuel sending unit so the return line does not run through the filler tube at all.

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Discussion Starter · #527 ·
Any interest in a series of builds for 27, 32, 33, 34, and 35 Fords. I have a friend that has the molds and we are starting to built a 34 Tree Window Coupe while he is moving forward on the 32 Ford Roadster that is already mounted on the frame.

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Discussion Starter · #532 ·
Completed Demolding the 34 today. We thought it was a pretty good effort and we’ve certainly taken some pretty copious notes on things we need to improve on. We are excited about the body. We will need to put the floor pan in next and do the doors, and trunk with liners

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Discussion Starter · #533 ·
I was always thrilled at the ZZ Top Hot Rod. My Son-in-law is a talented luthier so I asked him to match my 33 Ford with a Stratocaster style guitar. He built this over a period of time. It was the first time he ever matched the autobody colors and I think his work turned out extraordinary. He still needs to set the guitar up so I haven’t got my hands on it yet but I am seriously stoked about the end result. Some of the details aside form the obvious Ethyl peghead, the 33 on the body also includes the grear shit knobs, and the pick guard made like a 33-34 Ford grill. The electronics are high end. I asm expecting this to be a killer guitar.
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Discussion Starter · #534 ·
We are doing a 100,000 mile refurbish on the 33. 121 Rod & Restoration is painting the side panels Don Ross Fabrication custom built. While we have the paint mixed they are going to shoot the random dings it gets driving the heck out of it.

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Looks great. How does engine fair in temp, now that its closed up?
 

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Earlier pictures showed it had solid side panels before. So should be a little cooler with louvered panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #539 ·
Sorry for not getting back sooner. My Dad fell last winter and has been fighting to recover. I’ve spent a lot of time on the road to be with him. We did get to back to the 50’s and I have recently been able to take the car out and flog it. I have had temperature issues almost from the first start up. I am essentially on my third engine. I rebuilt the first one once then just went to a different motor. There were a lot of casting flaws in the first engine which was a crate motor bought through standard channels. My first issues started when the heads literally began to crumble while trying to torque down the intake. Overheating was already a problem. I could not get the Holley Carburetor set up right and the timing just wasn’t there either. I been dealing with mechanical advance and Holley Carburetors all my life but it was just beating me to death. I ran the car for a while without the side panels. We had constructed the panels with the stainless liners. I loved them but overheating was an issue. I went to a Carb guy and he advised me that the issue was my timing, not the carb, and probably not the motor. In the 60’s we would run a vacuum advance, disconnect it and plug it at the track then advance the timing and run WOT all afternoon, plug everything back up and drive it home and through the next week. We didn’t have electronic MSD boxes and distributors with limited advance for a purely mechanical setup. I learned trying that on the street was wrong. I put in a vacuum advance distributor and things were better. Car was still capable of overheating but generally ran better. Problem was the cylinder walls were getting washed down from over fueling. I Built a set of Vortec Heads for the car and when we pulled the existing SBC heads, which I had already found to be problematic, we found the heads were literally crumbling, the guide seats had quite honestly turned back to sand. Cylinder walls were scoured. So I replaced the whole damned thing with a one piece rear seal block from a 90 chevy. We stroked it to 383, installed the Vortex Heads. Guy helping me and leading the build recommended a Holley EFI. I figured nothing to lose and we put the stealth EFI in. Best decision I ever made. We went the whole route with the computer controlled hyper spark timing controlled by the computer. After getting it set up. I jumped on a chance to get Don Ross to build the panels cause, heck, I love louvers and having Don build anything for the car was a plus. Amazed me that I was unable to get the car to heat up much past 180. Found I had to up the thermostat from 165 to 185. I believe all along that the issue was timing, exacerbated by vacuum leaks from the old crate engine. I drove the car in first gear at low 90 degree ambient temps in Minneapolis for up to 4 hours a day cruising the fairgrounds. Temp never got over 194 nor below 185. I was out today in Dallas with it over 100 and the car never got over 192 nor under 180. I can even run the stainless lined panels in Texas summer. I cannot prove it was the Holley EFI but as we dialed the tune in it ran better and better. So now I can go shirtless, go with the stainless lined panels or go with the louvers. Sorry for the rant, was a real experience for me. Here is a 102 degree afternoon.

 
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