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Ethyl Roars

85390 Views 554 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  wrp
Ethyl is a 2004 GTO I bought her new in November 2004. We put 95,000 miles on her with 80,000 of them being at 450+ rwhp. In May 09 we decided to go completely through it. First off the original LS1 running heads and cam for 85,000 miles only required honing, cam bearings, and rings and is back in another GTO making nearly 500 rwhp with forged internals, heads, and cam. In our build we initially started to put a 91 mm Borg Warner Turbo on but switched to a PD twin Helix Harrop HVT2300 supercharger. After getting it together we decided to go with the 4.0 Liter Whipple to see how far we could take the Texas Speed and Power built 408 LQ9 Engine.

The engine. We started with a LQ9 Iron Block built by Texas Speed. It has Diamond Pistons, Eagle Rods, and an Eagle Forged Crank. The entire rotating assembly is coated and the pistons are a -28cc dish. We put ETP 245 heads on the car and retained the 1 7/8 inch Kooks Headers.

Fabrication. We relocated the ECM to inside the drivers compartment and fabricated a coil pack relocation scheme with some modified GM Performance Valve Covers to clean up the appearance. We fabricated a reservoir with a front mounted heat exchanger. We fabricated the intake for the supercharger and the brace for the snout pulley,

Forced Induction. We started out intending to put a Borg Warner 91 mm Turbo on it but went with a Harrop HVT2300. Our goal was 20 lbs of boost since the engine was built to go to 1500 HP. The Harrop maxed out around 18 lbs so we went with the Whipple Sand Rail 4.0 Liter Supercharger Kit. That Supercharger is a beast. We have seen 19 lbs of boost on the engine on the Serpentine belts with the OEM pulleys. We also replaced the 2004 GTO radiator with a 2005 Radiator to eliminate the large fender mounted catch can.

Cooling Includes an 05 GTO radiator and a Moroso remote mounted electric water pump. We used an aftermarket heat exchanger off a Cobra and a Moroso Heat Exchanger Reservoir which is trunk Mounted. We wired three fans behind the heat exchanger to pull air through them. A Flex-Cool low profile fan completed the setup.

Cog Drive. The Serpentine belts could not hold so we added a custom foabricated cog drive using Procharger and some custom designed and fabricated parts. We had to work through a serise of issues including the snout not holding up to the demands. We designed and fabricated a unique cradle for the snout and top sprocket. Once we were with the cog drive it became apparent the 80 lbs Siemns injectors could not keep up. Also the IAT's were high and the car did not respond well to meth. We installed Bosch/ID 2000 cc injectors and converted the car to E85. We've been able to consistently hold the car at 23 lbs of boost though the Aeromotive A1000 is max'd out. The current setup is a fuill return system using a combination of Aeromotive and custom fabricated parts.

Transmission. We could not get a T56 to stay together so we had RPM transmissions build a T56 Magnum with a GForce 9310 dog cut gear set, micropolished by Liberty Gears. The setup was awesome and scheduled be installed with a Monster Triple Disk clutch. Unfortunately the Transmission took so long to deliver we had already gone to FTI for a Stage 5 TH400 by the time it arrived. Reluctantly we dissassembled the T56 Magnum and sold the parts for scrap. We have the TH400 in now.

Drivetrain. We overpowered the OEM drivetrain so We turned our attention to GForce1320's 9 inch Ford IRS. We are using a Wavetrac 35 spline differential with 200 mm GForce axles. The car has tubs, and a GForce1320 coil over kit, We will be running 14.5 inch slicks on 15 by 10 Holeshot Rims with 15 by 4 inch skinnies on the front. Currently have MT ET DRs, 295 by 55 by 15s on it.

Finishing touches. SNL put a Kook's afterburner 3" exhaust on the car. We added a FireCharger fire suppression system and Prosport AFR/Boost gauges. We've installed an RPM Rollbar and B&M Quicksilver Shifter. We also installed a 100 shot on top of everything as it seems to help IAT's a bit. We have a shop standing by to do the hood when we get everything else finished.

Suspension. Lovell's suspension components from Kollar Racing will replace every component in the suspension with new bushings, and fittings. We are also going to the Lovell's 90/10 struts as the car will work mostly on the strip once completed. We still need to complete the hood, add the Roll Cage, and completely repaint the body to finish the build.

Here she is putting down 969/1110 on the dyno with a failing clutch

A few more pulls with the serpentine belt

Prolly my favorite pulls

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Always fun too watch Bill..thanks for sharing...but I think you need a blower on your ride...The kid didn't piss his
:) I've still got a set of twins
One of the pure joys is to see someone else liking th4e Hot Rod. Bringing smiles is the biggest rrush of all.

Last night, after working nearly two weeks I finally got the fuel filler hose with the fuel return bung installed so that it worke3s reasonably well. Was able to fill the tank with the pump at half volume without interruption or kicking off. The fuel inlet on the tank is level with the Gas Cap Filler mount on the car. Without extensive body modifications, it is nearly impossible to mount the filler tube to get more than a level position visavis the fuel tank inlet. Adding the return line to the inlet hose created n issue with the fuel flow in the inlet overcoming the capacity as the fuel tended to flow back towards the gas cap and to remain in the tube. With the constant presence of fuel in the filler tube, the joints in the filler tube eventually leaked. I took the line out, installed a new bung in the filler tube that is pointed towards the fuel tank inlet, hoping to reduce the backpressure flow coming towards the Gas cap and to realigne the filler tube so it would drain completely. Was not totally nsuccessful in any endeavor but now at least the tank fills really easily without constantly kicking off the pump, and the backwash of fuel in the filler tube stays at 1/8 inch or lower.

The car seems to run better, less cavitation and aereation in the tank. I am still looking for a way to extend the inner portion of the return fuel bung to the bottom of the tank. I am looking at a new filler tube arrangement that runs the return through and down to the bottom of the tank through the filler inlet. Another approach is to modify the fuel sending unit so the return line does not run through the filler tube at all.

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BTW, car does run better, or I am getting better at launching it

Any interest in a series of builds for 27, 32, 33, 34, and 35 Fords. I have a friend that has the molds and we are starting to built a 34 Tree Window Coupe while he is moving forward on the 32 Ford Roadster that is already mounted on the frame.

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Got our 34 glass laid, de-mold later this week.

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Short Video of others playing, kinda cool to catch it.

Late night, all alone, run through the gears.

Started De Molding the 34 Three Window today.

Completed Demolding the 34 today. We thought it was a pretty good effort and we’ve certainly taken some pretty copious notes on things we need to improve on. We are excited about the body. We will need to put the floor pan in next and do the doors, and trunk with liners

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I was always thrilled at the ZZ Top Hot Rod. My Son-in-law is a talented luthier so I asked him to match my 33 Ford with a Stratocaster style guitar. He built this over a period of time. It was the first time he ever matched the autobody colors and I think his work turned out extraordinary. He still needs to set the guitar up so I haven’t got my hands on it yet but I am seriously stoked about the end result. Some of the details aside form the obvious Ethyl peghead, the 33 on the body also includes the grear shit knobs, and the pick guard made like a 33-34 Ford grill. The electronics are high end. I asm expecting this to be a killer guitar.


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We are doing a 100,000 mile refurbish on the 33. 121 Rod & Restoration is painting the side panels Don Ross Fabrication custom built. While we have the paint mixed they are going to shoot the random dings it gets driving the heck out of it.

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Got the louvered side panels painted.
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Looks great. How does engine fair in temp, now that its closed up?
I was wondering the same thing about the temps...
Earlier pictures showed it had solid side panels before. So should be a little cooler with louvered panels.
Sorry for not getting back sooner. My Dad fell last winter and has been fighting to recover. I’ve spent a lot of time on the road to be with him. We did get to back to the 50’s and I have recently been able to take the car out and flog it. I have had temperature issues almost from the first start up. I am essentially on my third engine. I rebuilt the first one once then just went to a different motor. There were a lot of casting flaws in the first engine which was a crate motor bought through standard channels. My first issues started when the heads literally began to crumble while trying to torque down the intake. Overheating was already a problem. I could not get the Holley Carburetor set up right and the timing just wasn’t there either. I been dealing with mechanical advance and Holley Carburetors all my life but it was just beating me to death. I ran the car for a while without the side panels. We had constructed the panels with the stainless liners. I loved them but overheating was an issue. I went to a Carb guy and he advised me that the issue was my timing, not the carb, and probably not the motor. In the 60’s we would run a vacuum advance, disconnect it and plug it at the track then advance the timing and run WOT all afternoon, plug everything back up and drive it home and through the next week. We didn’t have electronic MSD boxes and distributors with limited advance for a purely mechanical setup. I learned trying that on the street was wrong. I put in a vacuum advance distributor and things were better. Car was still capable of overheating but generally ran better. Problem was the cylinder walls were getting washed down from over fueling. I Built a set of Vortec Heads for the car and when we pulled the existing SBC heads, which I had already found to be problematic, we found the heads were literally crumbling, the guide seats had quite honestly turned back to sand. Cylinder walls were scoured. So I replaced the whole damned thing with a one piece rear seal block from a 90 chevy. We stroked it to 383, installed the Vortex Heads. Guy helping me and leading the build recommended a Holley EFI. I figured nothing to lose and we put the stealth EFI in. Best decision I ever made. We went the whole route with the computer controlled hyper spark timing controlled by the computer. After getting it set up. I jumped on a chance to get Don Ross to build the panels cause, heck, I love louvers and having Don build anything for the car was a plus. Amazed me that I was unable to get the car to heat up much past 180. Found I had to up the thermostat from 165 to 185. I believe all along that the issue was timing, exacerbated by vacuum leaks from the old crate engine. I drove the car in first gear at low 90 degree ambient temps in Minneapolis for up to 4 hours a day cruising the fairgrounds. Temp never got over 194 nor below 185. I was out today in Dallas with it over 100 and the car never got over 192 nor under 180. I can even run the stainless lined panels in Texas summer. I cannot prove it was the Holley EFI but as we dialed the tune in it ran better and better. So now I can go shirtless, go with the stainless lined panels or go with the louvers. Sorry for the rant, was a real experience for me. Here is a 102 degree afternoon.

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I think I posted some back to the Fifties videos under another header. Here are some more

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