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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This picture is when I just got started on it. It had rack and pinion steering should I keep the rack or switch it over to gear box? What ya'll think?
 

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I tried to use a rack on my MG front drop axle front end cause it was there. It just wouldn't work without being a monstrosity. Brackets and angles to make the tie rods work where they needed to be and it was ugly so I went to a vega box off of ebay. got a great deal for 168 dollars and got the box, bracket, and pitman arm delivered to the house , and all brand new. I haven't finished yet so I can't tell you how good it is yet.
Mario
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's got a solid axle(original Crosley) with the rack mounted in front of it. They have been running it like that for some time. Don't know how much of a bump stear problem it would have. The king pins were so sloppy in it I doubt that bump stear would have shown up. I rebuilt the front axle with new bushings and model T kingpins which was the right size. We cut the kingpins off and threaded each end for lock nuts and beefed up the axle. The front spindles I think are reworked Toyota PU to get the disk brakes.
 

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A BIG decision!!!!

The tube chassis I'll be using is setup for some kind "rack & pinion"..... most of it is missing.

So there is the matter of either figuring out WHAT used to be there OR switching to the "straight front axle" of my dreams.

Either way I will have to spend money for either "replacement parts" of a "straight axle kit". Decisions, decisions, decisions.
 

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It's got a solid axle(original Crosley) with the rack mounted in front of it. They have been running it like that for some time. Don't know how much of a bump stear problem it would have. The king pins were so sloppy in it I doubt that bump stear would have shown up. I rebuilt the front axle with new bushings and model T kingpins which was the right size. We cut the kingpins off and threaded each end for lock nuts and beefed up the axle. The front spindles I think are reworked Toyota PU to get the disk brakes.
Not many people have had luck mixing straight axles and rack and pinion. It's nearly impossible to not have steering geometry issues, unless the rack is mounted to the axle, and then a splined slip column used. if it's got an axle already, I'd dump the rack and go to a traditional tierod and steering box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I pulled the rearend apart to check it (9in. Ford) it was a 28 spline with a mini spool and one of the splines had a little twist in. I decided to go back with full spool and 31 spline easy fix I thought. I have regeard lots of 9in. but never got into cross breeding them. I knew the 28 spline carriers had more meat than a 31 so I had to get change over carrier bearings that I tracked down at a parts store. The axle bearings were a different story because I needed the small outer on the flange end with a big inner. All my old cronies at the parts stores have retaired or died, thats another down side to getting kinda old most of the folks I delt with over the years are not there anymore and the younger ones only know what the PC says. I wound up having to get the bearings online but I have numbers now to get them. I might should have trashed the old one and started over but I had a pair of axles that fit. The online bearing cost quit a bit but still have money to put somewhere else on the car that I would have spent on the rearend.
 

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I bought a 9" Ford for my Falcon, but ended up selling it. It came with everything but the third member, and when I started pricing those, I ended up selling the 9" and going to the 8.8 inch. The cost was less than half of the 9" third member for a complete axle.
 
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