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Discussion Starter · #741 ·
I wonder if your springs have settled a little and your caster angle has changed Enough to bring on the wobble. I had that problem too. After you check caster angle and the toe in, Reach under the car and pull on the tie rod and see if it bends when you pull it. If it does then buy one that is larger diameter or chromoly steel. I got mine from Art Morrison. If all else fails you can always install a VW steering stabilizer from the tie rod to the axle tube. That’s what I did. All gone.
Thanks Mario, can you take some pics of the stabilizer and how you connected it to the front end? I was too tired to get out in the garage last night, but will see if I can make it out there tonight.
 

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I've had nothing but bad results with the typical 1" tierods that most kits come with. Especially so the wider the axle is, and your Chevy is wide enough to be an issue. I make my own from 1.25" tube with weld bungs on each end. They have zero flex, or deflection, and eliminate any chance of death wobble.
I buy tubing locally, and weld bungs from QC Components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #743 ·
Thanks guys! Both great ideas. I have a local metal supermarkets close to me so I can pick up the tubing. I will check all measurements tonight and get going on the upgrades since the 50 mile away car show is coming up quick.
 

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I just ordered these from speedway they seem very sturdy. I got the chrome stuff.
They have just about every length u need.
View attachment 108590
I hope yours work, but I'd expect you also may have issues with death wobble, as the Jeep is wide enough for these small diameter tierod and drag link tubes to flex. You will also likely have some bump steer issues with the angle on your drag link.
 

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Thanks Mario, can you take some pics of the stabilizer and how you connected it to the front end? I was too tired to get out in the garage last night, but will see if I can make it out there tonight.
Ok Dave I have to find it on my build thread. If you buy one with u bolts they will clamp on both the tie rod and the axle. Give me some time to find pics. I bought a truck steering stabilizer before I could hunt down a VW stabilizer.
 
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I hope yours work, but I'd expect you also may have issues with death wobble, as the Jeep is wide enough for these small diameter tierod and drag link tubes to flex. You will also likely have some bump steer issues with the angle on your drag link.
hopfully not lol. i had made a set when it was 4wd with weld in bungs and large dom tube, it had bad bumpsteer with the factory setup and the crossover steering completely eliminated it. The speedway tubes are definetly smaller but use the same 5/8 heim joints. 🤞🤞
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Thanks Mario, can you take some pics of the stabilizer and how you connected it to the front end? I was too tired to get out in the garage last night, but will see if I can make it out there tonight.
Ok Dave. Here are the pics I took tonight. Up front on the driver side I have an L bracket On the axle with U bolts. Pic doesn’t show it well enough. Also on the right side. Unbolts hold it in place on the tie rod. This is like a ranch o suspension stabilizer. The vw one is smaller and more discreet. You might
want to order that one Instead of mine.
Black Automotive tire Grey Wood Gas

Gas Trigger Bicycle part Machine tool Automotive tire

Automotive tire Bicycle tire Rim Wood Tints and shades
 

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Discussion Starter · #750 ·
Ok Dave. Here are the pics I took tonight. Up front on the driver side I have an L bracket On the axle with U bolts. Pic doesn’t show it well enough. Also on the right side. Unbolts hold it in place on the tie rod. This is like a ranch o suspension stabilizer. The vw one is smaller and more discreet. You might
want to order that one Instead of mine.
View attachment 108593
View attachment 108595
View attachment 108594
Thanks Mario! That helps a lot. I have my local metal superstore looking for 1.25 tubing.
 

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Thanks Mario! That helps a lot. I have my local metal superstore looking for 1.25 tubing.
The larger tube will make a difference but the stabilizer will guarantee you won’t get that again. I don’t know about you but after having that shakedown happen I kinda like the guarantee if you know what I mean. 😄
PS try and grab the tie rod in the middle and it will work great.
 

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hopfully not lol. i had made a set when it was 4wd with weld in bungs and large dom tube, it had bad bumpsteer with the factory setup and the crossover steering completely eliminated it. The speedway tubes are definetly smaller but use the same 5/8 heim joints. 🤞🤞
Jim it's not the heim size that's the issue, and if your previous setup had issues it's not likely it was from having too large diameter tubing. Maybe big tires were more likely causing issues.
The diameter of the tubing is a big issue, and the small tubes that Speedway sells can easily flex when the tires hit a bump, which is what causes death wobble. If you can grab the center of the tierod and push or pull it and it flexes, then imagine how easily the road and tires can cause it to flex. I've gone through this on my own cars, and on many other's cars. I hope it doesn't happen on yours, but I think it will happen to most cars with a wider wheelbase. A small car like my Austin, or Mario's MG can get away with the smaller tubing as the length wont allow the flexing a longer tierod has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #753 ·
Ok, I checked camber last night and it is at 6 degrees. so my next step is to order a new 1.25" OD x .75" ID x 60" tube. I order the bungs and heim from QC Components
 

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Ok, I checked camber last night and it is at 6 degrees. so my next step is to order a new 1.25" OD x .75" ID x 60" tube. I order the bungs and heim from QC Components
Do You know that 6* is minimum. You spring up and down and your into 5* which is a problem especially if your around 30-40mph. That could bounce you into another lane. I was given a range of 6-9*. You may need more. Or just replace the tie rod and put in the stabilizer.
 

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Do You know that 6* is minimum. You spring up and down and your into 5* which is a problem especially if your around 30-40mph. That could bounce you into another lane. I was given a range of 6-9*. You may need more. Or just replace the tie rod and put in the stabilizer.
I've always heard 5-7 degrees Mario, and I shoot for 7 degrees, unless it's a short wheelbase car like our two British cars. I'm at 10 degrees on my Austin. Had 6 degrees on my Falcon, and my '39 is at 7 degrees.
 

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Dave, you wont find .75" weld bungs for 5/8" heim ends! You need 1.0" ID tubing, not .75" ID tubing.
speedway gave me that range. the MG was at 6 and it bounced like crazy as soon as it got light up front. You’re probably right about the short wheel base. I’m happy with the handling on entrance ramps to the highway so stabilizer it is.
 
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speedway gave me that range. the MG was at 6 and it bounced like crazy as soon as it got light up front. You’re probably right about the short wheel base. I’m happy with the handling on entrance ramps to the highway so stabilizer it is.
The steeper 10 degree angle helps keep the wheels pointed straight. It does require a little more effort to turn them since they want to go straight, and when backing up I can't turn the wheels too far or it scrubs the front tires. But I can drive down the track at very high speeds and let go of the wheel and it stays straight.
 

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The steeper 10 degree angle helps keep the wheels pointed straight. It does require a little more effort to turn them since they want to go straight, and when backing up I can't turn the wheels too far or it scrubs the front tires. But I can drive down the track at very high speeds and let go of the wheel and it stays straight.
Well glad im following this. I was going to set myin at 6 degrees as thats what it was before i cut the front up, but might give it more camber.. Great info on this guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #760 ·
well, I got the new tie rod in and it does way better but on some serious bumps, it still gets wobble. So, I am going to get a stabilizer and be done with it once and for all. I still need to add shocks to the front end.
 
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