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OK guys, took the car out twice yesterday and she did great. I have almost all leaks fixed, I got my steering sorted but man is it sloppy. I assume I have to adjust the screw on top of the steering box to tighten it up? I now know what it is like for you guys to go get gas and have to play 20 questions. I pulled into my local gas station and had about 15 people walk over and take pics, ask questions. It was kind of fun, but I was like, hey I gotta get home. LOL
Always fun to talk to folks anywhere we take our cars. But as you said sometimes it takes more time than you have.
Yes on the steering box lash adjustment screw! But be very careful not to overtighten it too! I use a stubby screwdriver, just so I can't get a solid grip on it, and only use my thumb and index finger to tighten the screw.
Back off the locknut, and then turn the screw down gently until you feel resistance. Then put a wrench on the double D shaft for the steering column and turn the column back and forth as you gently turn the screw in further. Never crank on it hard, or you'll ruin the gear box. Once the play is gone, hold the screw while you tighten the locknut, so the screw doesn't get tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #683 ·
well, spent this weekend trying to figure out where my transmission was leaking. Turns out it was a fitting on the cooler and the pan gasket was leaking from a couple of stripped out screws. that I missed while putting the pan on. So, I bought some heli-coils and went to work. It tightened up pretty good and I let it sit for a day before I put fluid in. Seems to be OK. I ordered a mechanical fan since it was having issues at long traffic staying cool. so I am gonna give it the double wammy treatment. Took it to a car show Friday night and I humbly say it was the talk of the show. We will see this coming weekend just how well it shows as the largest car show in St. Louis happens on Saturday. 400 plus cars show up. I will take some pics.
 

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Me too Dave. Can’t wait to see the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #686 ·
OK guys, I have a weird question. I cannot get my idle down to a reasonable RPM. Out of gear at a light it idles around 1700-1900 and in gear it sits at 1100-1000 it seems awfully high to me. I even have the idle set screws all the way out so they are not even touching the throttle. does that make sense?
 

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Dave,
If I remember sometime back you were experiencing the same type problem and several of us recommended various things to check. I believe that I recommended the same thing as Crazy Horse did above. You responded that you had someone you trust go through the carbs. Aside from another vacuum leak check the closure of your secondary butterflies. To do this you normally have to remove the carbs from the manifold to access the small screws that go up from the bottom. Back the screw off until the butterflies are completely closed then tighten it back up until the tip just touches the linkage arm. This also keeps the butterflies from over centering. If the butterflies on either carb are open in the least bit it will cause the idle to go up because the secondaries are sucking air/gas.
By the way, did you ever replace those missing machine screws that attach the main body and throttle plate base assembly together that I suggested you do?
 

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Be sure to check your carb butterflies to the gasket, and intake to assure they're not hanging up on that area first. That too will require pulling the carbs off to turn them over and hold the gaskets to the carb base to see. Then set the carbs on the intake without bolting them down, and try to work the throttle and watch the base of the carb to see if it lifts, or feels any friction or resistance.
Surprised you've been able to drive the car with such high idle and not tear the tranny out when you drop it in gear at that rpm range?
 

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1st thing I would check is for a vacuum hose off a port somewhere like everyone else mentioned. Then the float levels. Does it smell rich? Look down the carbs and check for fuel running in because of a stuck needle open. A vacuum leak can cause the same symptom that’s why we all mentioned that first. Did you disconnect the throttle? See if it will rest closed? Is the fast idle cam off the choke in the up position on one of the carbs. Hope you find it Dave.
ok I see you don’t have any choke linkage anymore. Did the motor pop back or backfire recently?
 

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Discussion Starter · #692 ·
I checked the throttle cable and that is OK, it has never back fired. I will look for a vacuum leak before I pull the carbs off. insert heavy sigh. LOL By the way Steve, I did replace those screws that were missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #693 ·
well, did not get much done to the car this weekend. temps were in the low 100's the fan was was not helping much but I did get my temperature issue figured out. Once I replaced the blown fuse, it runs at 170 all day long. so this whole time I had no fan running at all. Jeez, glad I did not blow the motor up. I am such an idiot. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #694 ·
took the car on its longest trip to date, 20 miles to a car show. ran great on the interstate 65 mph at 2500 rpm. got there too late to be judged but a local Facebook page took a picture and put it on their page! I was the only gasser there.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle
 

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yup, it is to mess with people. Most who hear it say right away it sounds to healthy for a 283.
The real giveaway usually is what heads you use on the motor. Old Power Pack or Camel Hump heads add authenticity to pulling off the look. But using modern heads with accessory bolt holes in the ends of the heads will always tell sharp eyed Chevy guys it's not a real 283.
Of course I messed up all of that when I went to the Dart aluminum heads, but I don't mind if people know it's not really a 283 SBC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #700 ·
Well, my idle has gone down a little- It appears that the distributor hold down plate was only half on the distributor. I fixed that, timed it and now it idles in gear just around 1200. I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere. The carbs look great and are closed when the are supposed to be. What is the best wat to check for leaks. All ports on the carbs have caps on them.
 
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