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OK, take me to school. My gas gauge appears to be not working. I wired it just like Stewart Warner says, but when I go to the tank, it does not matter which way the wires are hooked up I cannot get the gauge to work. It has about 5 or so gallons in it so the gauge should be at a little above 1/4. I am working on the little things left until payday when I can get the brake lines.
Are you sure it has a good ground? You should be able to take the wire from the SW gauge and remove it from the tank to see if it reads with power turned on at the key. Then ground the wire and it should go to full on the gauge. If it doesn't move unhooked, or grounded with key turned on, then the problem is at the gauge, not the tank.
 

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The gauge works on resistance that is created when the sender float raises or lowers thereby giving the reading for fuel level ergo the resistance rating for the sender and the gauge must be the same. If you're not using a SW sender and you still have the instruction sheet for the sender you're using check the resistance rating that should be stated on the sheet. It may also be stamped on the mounting flange of the sender. As the instructions show do not send 12v to the sender. As Vall mentioned, make sure the sender has a good chassis ground because that's where the resistance reading comes from; a faulty ground equals a faulty or no reading.
One last thing. You mentioned that you had 5 gallons in the tank. When you were installing the sender did you follow the instructions for positioning the float on the arm. If the float is currently sitting above the fuel level it will show an empty tank.
 

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OK, take me to school. My gas gauge appears to be not working. I wired it just like Stewart Warner says, but when I go to the tank, it does not matter which way the wires are hooked up I cannot get the gauge to work. It has about 5 or so gallons in it so the gauge should be at a little above 1/4. I am working on the little things left until payday when I can get the brake lines.
Dave the positive wire from the gauge S side goes to the positive side of the sending unit. You should have power from the fuse block with ignition on. Your sending unit has a ground connection that should go to a known good ground. You can’t mix those wires up. What does your gauge read when you turn the key on ? Is it moving or is it dead as a door nail?

what they said. I’m a day late and a dollar short.
 
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How did you make out?
 

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I remember his thought was wait for now on spending. I know how that is. That’s the time you take to look things up and learn more about what you’re doing. Take advantage of the wait time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #647 ·
OK fellas, I did not know you were on the edge of your seats! I got it working Saturday night! Here is the funny part- I am not sure how I got it working. I started by checking my ground wire. It checked out perfect. I checked out the wire from the gauge and it was a little dirty, meaning the test light was dim. So I cussed at it for awhile, sat down and thought about it for awhile nd not knowing any better, I took 12 volts from my trunk light and connected it to the wire from the gauge and went into the fuel cell. then the needle jumped to Full. Well it was time to cuss again and sit down again so thought what the hell, I hooked it back up like it was supposed to be and Viola! it moved to just over 1/4 of a tank as predicted earlier. Not sure what happened but it seems to be OK. I also got my rear view camera installed. I have a small monitor I used for my camera. I cannot decide on whether I wanted a janky mirror cobbled up to mount on my center windshield divider or go with a camera. yea, people are gonna hate it, but if I can use some technology to help me stay out of trouble, I am gonna use it. I got one caliper put together for brakes and am working on other corners too!
 

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I had a similar problem with my Falcon gasser Dave. Every so often the gauge went wonky. Then I'd be driving down the road and it would begin working. I had all new wiring, and my connection to the sender in the tank was twisted, soldered and heat shrunk, so figured it had to be good. But I finally decided to cut the connection, and test the wire. It tested good, so instead of soldering it again I butt spliced it. Gauge began to work, and never quit again, so it must have been a cold solder joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #649 ·
I had a similar problem with my Falcon gasser Dave. Every so often the gauge went wonky. Then I'd be driving down the road and it would begin working. I had all new wiring, and my connection to the sender in the tank was twisted, soldered and heat shrunk, so figured it had to be good. But I finally decided to cut the connection, and test the wire. It tested good, so instead of soldering it again I butt spliced it. Gauge began to work, and never quit again, so it must have been a cold solder joint.
Mine was the same way. I ended up cutting all soldered ends off and redid them. feels awesome solving something!
 

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Way to go Dave. Good job.
 
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Discussion Starter · #651 ·
OK, For your new assignment. For my rear brakes I have a 1/4 inch brake line heading to the back. I have is stationed right above the pumpkin on ,y shocks crossmember. What is a way to not only get a rubber line down to the axle, but change it to 3/16ths as well? I am guessing a 20 inch or so rubber line will be enough to go up and down with the axle, but I cannot really find anything that will work.
 

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Usually the 1/4 line ends in a flex hose with bracket and a retaining clip. The hose can end on the rear with an end that T’s into 3/16 left and right so you can run your lines to both wheels.
 

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OK, For your new assignment. For my rear brakes I have a 1/4 inch brake line heading to the back. I have is stationed right above the pumpkin on ,y shocks crossmember. What is a way to not only get a rubber line down to the axle, but change it to 3/16ths as well? I am guessing a 20 inch or so rubber line will be enough to go up and down with the axle, but I cannot really find anything that will work.
If your axle has the T fitting to split to both sides then you just need the hose to fit that fitting. Other end of the hose will need a fitting to fit the 1/4" line. So if the line has no end yet, you can choose a 1/4" flare fitting to fit it. Then a coupler fitting to go from the hose to the flare fitting on the 1/4" line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #654 ·
OK. All that makes sense, but where would I have the best luck finding the rubber line and the fitting? I was looking on line and they were using AN sizes crossed with others. Very confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #655 ·
One of the main issues is that the calipers have like a 4 inch rubber house that attaches to a hard line that goes to the splitter.
 

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Why would the flexible hoses to each caliper be a problem Dave? If this is the standard 8.8" Ford rear axle then getting the hoses, and hard lines should be very easy. You can choose to either get them from a local wrecking yard, or order them new. Wonder why they got removed from the axle you bought?
 

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Discussion Starter · #658 ·
Vall, sorry if I was confusing. I have hard lines for my Trans am axle, I just needed the rubber line to make the jump from a moving axle to a frame.
 
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