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You can see the lid on the pump. no vacuum plug like Vall and Steve have. I guess I can get new lids then?
dsb's chevy gasser build
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The accelerator pump that you’re talking about is actually a vacuum Actuator for the vacuum secondaries. It opens the secondary throttle blades when the vacuum relaxes inside. Under full throttle it loses vacuum and releases the secondaries to open them. Right now you have another issue so don’t worry about the vacuum secondaries right now let’s fix the problem you have with the high Idle.
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Also, check to make sure that your secondaries are completely closed at an idle. If either carb has a secondary butterfly that is somehow being held open, even a little, it will increase your idle. Double check the vacuum line going to your distributor again. If it's getting vacuum at an idle it'll advance your idle exponentially depending on how much vacuum it's getting. Getting back to basics, did you back off completely the idle screw of both carbs and not just one. Did you check both of your power valves to make sure they weren't blown; if one or both are, that means the motor is sucking in excess fuel. If your motor has backfired there's a good chance you've blown one or both power valves unless the carbs are newer and came equipped with the factory anti blowout valves or the guy you bought them from installed the after market kits. The easiest way to check, for me anyway, is to pull them out, put the end opposite the end with the spring to your lips and suck. If the diaphragm isn't blown the spring end should be drawn in, if not that's a good indication of a blown power valve. We've suggested looking at the vacuum rating on the power valve body. If with your cam you're only getting say 6 inches of vacuum at an idle and your power valves are rated at say 8 inches or more you're going to have fuel being drawn into your motor. There's a formula for figuring the correct power valve. With your motor warmed up and at curb idle check your manifold (full) vacuum. Say it's 5 inches, I believe you're supposed to go to a power valve rated at about 2.5 to 3 inches.
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OK all, I hope you are sitting down because in a second you will be laughing at me so much you won't be able to stand. I got home last night after work and having thought about this all day I wanted to try one thing. I took the linkage off the carbs so they would be totally independent and lo and behold, the front carb slammed shut! I was like WTF just happened. I had paid very close attentions when I attached the bar that holds the carbs together. Some how I must have pulled the front carb open while I was attaching the heim joint. I did not start it because it was late and my neighbor lady gets pissy when I start it too late. but it must have been open 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch open so that would explain the high idling! It really is something simple! Now, I will start and check for leaks to see if what I did stopped it. Thanks for the help guys, and stay tuned!
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It works! started it yesterday and no leaks! I got the idle down to 1100 with the anticipation of it going down while in gear. I did not touch the air/fuel screws because it seemed to be doing just fine where it was at. every time I burped the throttle it responded without hesitation. so I am going to leave it alone until I can drive it. I also finished my steering wheel. I will post pics once it is all put back together.
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Glad you got it going Dave! Great perseverance, and it resulted in you getting it fixed.
On the tops for the vacuum canisters that Steve and I have. Those come as a synchronizing kit when you buy the balancing kit for dual quads. Single carbs never have them as they aren't usually purchased as pairs specifically for dual quad setups.
On the tops for the vacuum canisters that Steve and I have. Those come as a synchronizing kit when you buy the balancing kit for dual quads. Single carbs never have them as they aren't usually purchased as pairs specifically for dual quad setups.
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It's a great feeling to get a problem like that figured out Dave. We've all been there, and had to wrack our brains to try and figure out what was wrong.
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You might get by forever without ever needing the balancing kit. A huge number of cars with dual carbs don't have them and work OK. It's a fine tuning thing that does help, but isn't mandatory to use. I'd drive it like it is, and not worry unless you notice some hesitation, or stumble on full throttle hits.
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getting close. I just have to do the finishing touches on the brake lines and then bleed them
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Wheel looks great Dave! I like stock wheels on 50's and 60's Chevys.
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OK, take me to school. My gas gauge appears to be not working. I wired it just like Stewart Warner says, but when I go to the tank, it does not matter which way the wires are hooked up I cannot get the gauge to work. It has about 5 or so gallons in it so the gauge should be at a little above 1/4. I am working on the little things left until payday when I can get the brake lines.
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