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I've never used roller tip rockers but I'm going to on the small block if they work just as good. Is there a significant price difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #523 ·
OK, tried to officially start it this weekend. everything is hooked up, made my spark plug wires, made sure I had fuel coming up from electric fuel pump. Oil is dead on, has coolant back in and found out 1 thing-

Battery is too small to turn the motor over. Got 1 or 2 burps out of the pipes, but it is just not spinning the motor fast enough. It is the smallest cheapest battery I could find at wal-mart to finish my electrical. I knew it was too small but wanted to give it a go anyway. I am assuming the compression is a little high as it barely made it around the dial 10 times before the battery quit. What size do you all run in your high performance car? Those 2 burps through the headers sure sounded good!

Next issue may be timing. This is the harmonic balancer I have. I times the car and set the valves based on the 0 mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the timing tab. Although you cannot see it, if you roll the damper over some more, there is another line that says TDC. Is that what I should be setting the valves and timing off of?


Peripheral Automotive lighting Watch Automotive tire Communication Device
 

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What size battery cable did you run for hot and ground? That could be restricting amperage, and more likely than too high a compression.
I never scrimp on battery size, or battery cable size. And I also make sure my battery cable is the extremely fine strand as coarser strand has more resistance, even in equal sizes. I run 2/0 welding or battery cable for all my cars. Battery size rarely changes the price much, and at my local BiMart store all the batteries are $79, so I buy the largest one that fits my battery boxes. That's usually one specified for a early 70's Camaro, Chevelle, etc. I like them because they have posts, and bolt on side mounts. I use the bolted connections for all my cars also, as I can crimp on lugs to the cable for an even better connection that wont corrode.
If it's having trouble starting, you should be able to jump it from one of your other cars, and that should do the trick IF everything else is sized correctly. The starter wont know the difference and will get it's cranking amps from the jump battery.
 

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Also make sure you have a good ground from the battery to the chassis, from the chassis to the engine block, from the block to the body and that they're all tight. Last week I got a call from my cousin because his gasser had developed starter problems; cranking way to slow. I told him to double check all the cable connections. He got back to me and told me one of the cables going to the master shut off was loose and after he retightened it everything was good again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #526 ·
I am running 1/0 car stereo amplifier cable. The cable was not even warm from that little battery trying to push them amps through the cable. I have grounds all over the cat and a 1/0 from battery to the frame. It was so exciting to hear it bup a bit
 

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I am running 1/0 car stereo amplifier cable. The cable was not even warm from that little battery trying to push them amps through the cable. I have grounds all over the cat and a 1/0 from battery to the frame. It was so exciting to hear it bup a bit
I use 2/0, but 1/0 is OK. Do you also have a good clean ground where it's bolted to the frame, and a 2nd 1/0 from the front of the frame to the block? If it doesn't have a good ground size, and clean connection at both ends it wont get full amperage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #528 ·
I use 2/0, but 1/0 is OK. Do you also have a good clean ground where it's bolted to the frame, and a 2nd 1/0 from the front of the frame to the block? If it doesn't have a good ground size, and clean connection at both ends it wont get full amperage.
As a former car stereo installer, I have grounds all over the place! All are the same size. I ground the metal down with a flap disc and bolted to the frame.
 

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As a former car stereo installer, I have grounds all over the place! All are the same size. I ground the metal down with a flap disc and bolted to the frame.
The number of grounds isn't as important as the 1/0 ground at the rear from battery to frame, and front from frame to block. So I assume you have that among the "ground all over"? Not trying to pick on you Dave, but just looking to help you figure out why it's not cranking well.
Does your battery have a listed cranking amps on the label? I'd want it to be at the least a 625 cranking amps, or more. I have 725ca on both of my cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #530 ·
Yes, all are the same gauge from motor to frame and battery to frame. I will have to look at the battery when I get home.
The number of grounds isn't as important as the 1/0 ground at the rear from battery to frame, and front from frame to block. So I assume you have that among the "ground all over"? Not trying to pick on you Dave, but just looking to help you figure out why it's not cranking well.
Does your battery have a listed cranking amps on the label? I'd want it to be at the least a 625 cranking amps, or more. I have 725ca on both of my cars.
 

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OK, tried to officially start it this weekend. everything is hooked up, made my spark plug wires, made sure I had fuel coming up from electric fuel pump. Oil is dead on, has coolant back in and found out 1 thing-

Battery is too small to turn the motor over. Got 1 or 2 burps out of the pipes, but it is just not spinning the motor fast enough. It is the smallest cheapest battery I could find at wal-mart to finish my electrical. I knew it was too small but wanted to give it a go anyway. I am assuming the compression is a little high as it barely made it around the dial 10 times before the battery quit. What size do you all run in your high performance car? Those 2 burps through the headers sure sounded good!

Next issue may be timing. This is the harmonic balancer I have. I times the car and set the valves based on the 0 mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the timing tab. Although you cannot see it, if you roll the damper over some more, there is another line that says TDC. Is that what I should be setting the valves and timing off of?


View attachment 107877
How are you choosing cylinders? To set valves. I just did a sure fire way told to me by an engine builder and it works with any motor firing order. In your case on zero set #1. 1/4 turn clockwise then set #8, 1/4 turn and set #4 and so on. On the 8th 1/4 you will reach back to zero again and #8.
adjustment like this : roll the push rod as you tighten the rocker nut. When you can’t turn the pushrod anymore stop and give another 1/4 turn on the nut. If you have any questions ask now before you hurt a valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #532 ·
How are you choosing cylinders? To set valves. I just did a sure fire way told to me by an engine builder and it works with any motor firing order. In your case on zero set #1. 1/4 turn clockwise then set #8, 1/4 turn and set #4 and so on. On the 8th 1/4 you will reach back to zero again and #8.
adjustment like this : roll the push rod as you tighten the rocker nut. When you can’t turn the pushrod anymore stop and give another 1/4 turn on the nut. If you have any questions ask now before you hurt a valve.
I did it just like you described Mario.

I checked my battery last night and it is 500CC.
 

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I did it just like you described Mario.

I checked my battery last night and it is 500CC.
Like Vall said that is too small in CC. I usually shoot for at least 750. If you run a battery jumper/charger on your 500 you should be able to crank her up. Even a jump like Vall mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #534 ·
Like Vall said that is too small in CC. I usually shoot for at least 750. If you run a battery jumper/charger on your 500 you should be able to crank her up. Even a jump like Vall mentioned.
I tried to add my 50 amp charger and that is when I got the chugs out the headers, but then it just slows down because the battery is dead. I have some thicker wire I might wire in.
 

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Mario, you set your valves tighter than I do. I have found that twisting pushrods will allow the lash to be quite tight before they stop turning. And adding a 1/4 turn after that usually results in them being even tighter. So when I tried that method there was no oil flow out of the ends when the engine fired and lifters pumped up.
I personally have more luck using the up-down method to check pushrod clearance. I wiggle them up and down until there's no movement, and then add 1/4 turn. I adjust my valves by cylinder, and watch the exhaust just start to open, then set the intake. Then watch the intake just begin to open and set the exhaust. Seems to be the most precise for me.

Dave, If you get the engine running be sure to stop and pull a valve cover to see if it's oiling the rockers well! Don't want to do a cam breakin with the top not oiling well, and end up tearing up rocker arms, and valve stems if they're not oiling well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #536 ·
Mario, you set your valves tighter than I do. I have found that twisting pushrods will allow the lash to be quite tight before they stop turning. And adding a 1/4 turn after that usually results in them being even tighter. So when I tried that method there was no oil flow out of the ends when the engine fired and lifters pumped up.
I personally have more luck using the up-down method to check pushrod clearance. I wiggle them up and down until there's no movement, and then add 1/4 turn. I adjust my valves by cylinder, and watch the exhaust just start to open, then set the intake. Then watch the intake just begin to open and set the exhaust. Seems to be the most precise for me.

Dave, If you get the engine running be sure to stop and pull a valve cover to see if it's oiling the rockers well! Don't want to do a cam breakin with the top not oiling well, and end up tearing up rocker arms, and valve stems if they're not oiling well!

I lifted my pushrod up and down as well. The guy was very adamant about not twisting in the video
 

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Discussion Starter · #537 ·
well, I found the culprit of my starter issues. Looks like I got scammed with Chinese wire. I got to thinking about what to watch for back when I was installing and I remember asking people where they bought their amp wiring. well, the wire I used had almost twice the amount of jacket on it making it look like it was stuffed with copper wire, but was barley larger than 4 gauge from a real wire manufacturer. So, I made a set of short wires for my new battery and man does it turn great until my starter either moved or broke but now all it does it make that bendix gear spinning noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #538 ·
Well, my starter keeps moving back out of contact with the flywheel. I spend 4 hours on Christmas eve trying to get it lined up. I used shims, no shims and for whatever reason, it spins the motor great for a few seconds and then ZING! So I got pissed, did some research and bought a mini starter from Speedway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #539 ·
well, got the mini starter on and I cranked it a few times with no luck. Had a buddy stop by, told him what was up and he was checking for spark and the MF'er started right up. got the #1 plug wire on and then the front carb input started leaking!. But man o man did it sound bad ass!
 

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well, got the mini starter on and I cranked it a few times with no luck. Had a buddy stop by, told him what was up and he was checking for spark and the MF'er started right up. got the #1 plug wire on and then the front carb input started leaking!. But man o man did it sound bad ass!
Awesome Dave. You gotta make a video of it running when you can.
 
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