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Discussion Starter · #501 ·
OK, let's see if this passes muster. On the top you can see the plan for adding a mounting part for the 4 heim joints. These will be right by the axle. The bottom pictures are just showing 4 heim joint welded on the bars and will connect to the part on the axle. I will keep the current mount up front and add a shackle. question is, how long of a shackle do i need?


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Discussion Starter · #502 ·
Interesting read-

Courtesy of Eric & AJxtcman.

From GM Techlink March 2004:



Cooling System Seal Tabs What’s made of ground-up ginger root, almond shells and binder? And causes confusion in auto service departments?

Some people call them coolant pellets, but the proper name is Cooling System Seal Tabs. And we hope to clear up some misunderstandings about them

How They Work
Seal tabs are dissolved in the engine coolant and the resulting fibres circulate through the cooling system. At a microscopic level, the tabs break down into irregular, long, thin fibres. When a small leak or seepage occurs, the coolant carries the fibres into the opening, where they cluster up and jam together. (Think of logs and branches in a beaver dam.) This mechanism is very effective at stopping leaks. Any fibres that make it to the surface will crust over and enhance the seal.

This sealing method is useful only for small-scale leaks and seepage, and tends to work best in conditions where the surrounding parts aren’t moving. The seals tend to break down in areas between metals that are expanding and contracting with temperature changes, for instance.

A Secondary Benefit
The traditional green-colored coolant, used until DEXCOOL® was introduced in 1996, contained silicates, which deposit on cooling system surfaces. The tiny fibres from the seal tabs acted as scouring pads, removing silicate deposits from the water pump seal faces, which contributed to longer water pump seal life.

Side Effects of Seal Tabs
In addition to the benefits of sealing small leaks and scrubbing silicates from water pump seals, seal tabs also have some side effects.

After awhile, a brown, dirty-looking stain may form on translucent coolant bottles. Residue may form on the backside of the radiator cap. And deposits that resemble rust may be found in the cooling system.

These are not problems, in the sense that they cause no physical harm. But their appearance can be alarming, especially on a new vehicle. Both customers and well-intentioned technicians can be misled by these deposits.

Another side effect comes from overuse. When seal tabs are used in the prescribed amounts, they will not cause restrictions or plugging in an otherwise properly operating cooling system.

But, if a little is good, a lot must be better. Wrong!! Overuse can lead to plugging, especially in the relatively small tubes used in heater cores.

Some History
There was a time when seal tabs were installed in every new vehicle, at the factory, to account for the inevitable small leaks that occur in castings, joints, and so on. By the mid ‘90s, manufacturing and machining techniques had improved to the point where the seal tabs were no longer needed on a universal basis.

With the introduction of long-life coolant, silicate deposits were no longer a concern, so the scrubbing action from the seal tab fibres was no longer needed.

TIP: GM plants, as well as other manufacturers, still occasionally use seal tabs to address specific concerns.

Today’s Recommendations
In short, GM no longer endorses universal use of seal tabs. Procedures in SI have been specifically written to discourage their use in most cases.

When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be beneficial, a specific bulletin is released, describing their proper use. One such bulletin is Customer Satisfaction Program 03034, dated 7/7/03. This applies to specific 3.8L engines only, and is in effect until July 31, 2005.

TIP: After performing the procedure in the bulletin, be sure to install a recall identification label to the vehicle to indicate that the seal tabs have been installed.

TIP: If seal tabs were installed in a vehicle at the factory, it’s OK that the proper amount of tabs be installed if the coolant must be drained and replaced.

What’s a Recommended Dose?
TIP: Use this information only when instructed to do so by bulletin or SI procedure.

The proper number of Cooling System Seal Tabs depends on the capacity of the vehicle’s cooling system. Use between 1 and 1 1/2 grams of tabs per liter of cooling system capacity.

TIP: Cooling System Seal Tabs are packaged in two sizes.12378254 Small tabs (4 grams each) 5 tabs per package
3634621 Large tabs (10 grams each) 6 tabs per package
 

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Discussion Starter · #503 ·
I also have 2 of these brackets. I may see if they will work on the bar section on the axle part .
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Never heard of any new cars getting "tablets" in the cooling system? But I'd bet it's more about stopping electrolysis than about sealing new systems. From what I've read about the GM "tablets" they're to prevent electrolysis from eating tiny holes in a cooling system. I never add anything to my cars except 50/50 water and antifreeze. Most antifreeze has stuff in it to help prevent electrolysis these days.
That's why Chevrolet developed Dex-Cool orange antifreeze.
 

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OK Dave lets see if I can describe this. Up front I'd want something more than 1/4" plate, with a shackle on each side. I'd use some rectangle box tubing, so a shackle on each side of it would be as wide, or wider than the single front heim end. If it's wider you can always used spacers between the shackles and the front heim to make it fit the shackles.
I'd keep shackles to around 3" on hole centers. No reason it needs any longer. I used 1.25" x 1/4" bar stock to build mine, and of course grade 8 bolts and hardware. Use nylock nuts so you can leave them just snug, and not create a bind.
I'd want a double shear mount at the rear, so one of those plates wont work. You need a pair for each side, so the ladder bars slip into the plate in double shear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #510 ·
OK, I think I understand all of your ideas and instructions. So, on the rear, I will need 4 plates with adjustment holes to slip the heim joints into and weld them to the part of the bars welded to the axle. Let me do some shopping and I will post up what I think I need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #512 ·
welp, I resealed all of the head bolts and while I was doing it, I think I figured out how the seeping occurred. I drove the bolts in too far. so I did some measuring and figured how many turns into the block I should have and sealed the shit out of them. I am letting is set for a few days before I pour the coolant back in.
 

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Dave, I'm curious as to what you mean when you say you drove the head bolts in to far. SBC head bolts have a torque specification of 65 pounds and I don't know how you would be able to drive them in to far. Since there are 3 different length bolts you would know if you had accidentally put one of the medium length bolts in one of the shorter holes at the front and rear of the middle row of head bolt holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #514 ·
Dave, I'm curious as to what you mean when you say you drove the head bolts in to far. SBC head bolts have a torque specification of 65 pounds and I don't know how you would be able to drive them in to far. Since there are 3 different length bolts you would know if you had accidentally put one of the medium length bolts in one of the shorter holes at the front and rear of the middle row of head bolt holes.
I have screw in studs for the heads.
 

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OK, my bad. I didn't remember you saying in your thread that the block was studded. But that makes it even stranger because the studs are meant to be installed to the end of the threads so they can torqued even though the heads will have nuts to torque the heads down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #516 ·
OK, my bad. I didn't remember you saying in your thread that the block was studded. But that makes it even stranger because the studs are meant to be installed to the end of the threads so they can torqued even though the heads will have nuts to torque the heads down.
That is what I did. I used a nut on the bolt to see how many turns I would have to do before until the bolt was all the way in. I torqued them all down just fine!
 

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I had studs in my BBC in the Falcon, and did as Steve mentioned. I coated the threads with sealer, and simply hand tightened them down until there was no threads exposed. Mine were ARP and that's what the instructions stated. Then I slipped the heads over, and followed up with their torque sequence. ARP stated with aluminum heads to tighten them in 3 stages, and after running the engine to go back and check the final torque setting once more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #518 ·
well, tonight will be the test. I am going to pour the coolant back in and see if it seeps again. While I had everything loosened up, I decided to buys some roller rocker arms to replace the roller tips I had in there. Anyone want roller tip rocker arms cheap? LOL
 

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I never use full roller rockers myself Dave. I like the steel roller tip rockers ass they fit stock height valve covers, even with poly locks, and less moving parts to fail. I've had them on my last 4 engines (3 SBC, 1 BBC) and never a problem.
 
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