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Are you wanting just the look of ladder bars or to function? If you want them to function I would set it up as if you were racing every weekend. 1st I can tell you ladder bars don't like to turn into like uneven driveways.. they want to keep axle parallel to the ground Ive even herd that they have pulled ladder bar brackets off the axle in that scenario. If street driven you want pinion angle parallel to drive line angle.. in drag car pinion angle down so many degrees drive line angle down so many degrees, because on a hard launch the pinion wants to crawl up the ring gear to where they are parallel. Then you get into center of gravity and all the other fun geometry. Basically you have to setup suspension on the way you will drive it. And having floaters will help set pinion angle a whole lot easier. But every rear parallel leaf sprung with ladder bars I've seen have floaters.. we need to know exactly how you will drive the car to give you correct information. But not being a full race car I would have maybe went with a Cal-Trac type setup but completely understand if you like the ladder bar setup it just has to be setup correctly. But knowing how you will drive it is critical.
 

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You also have to set it up with vehicle weight on axle.. but think Val has mentioned that already. But just to clarify I would set it up like you are racing it . Hopefully I have made sense. And have gave you correct information because I am no expert but have been around it a long time.
 

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It's a little easier to set them if you buy the longer heim joints for the two rear, so you can adjust one in, and the other out, yet still have plenty of threads inside the bung.
I use the same multi hole front brackets on my Austin because I wanted more flexibility for adjusting. them. But for my falcon gasser, and my '39 Chev I did the shackles like offroad trucks use with parallel leafs, as the ladder bars don't get adjusted ever, and the shackle allows the rearend to move back as springs compress, which avoids binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #486 ·
OK, I have an idea and before I do something stupid let me run this past you guys. How about using 4 of these on each arm of the bars at the back by the axle? wouldn't that allow the rear to go up and down across bumps and driveways? plus you can make them go in and out as needed.

Product Automotive lighting Line Font Bicycle part
 

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OK, I have an idea and before I do something stupid let me run this past you guys. How about using 4 of these on each arm of the bars at the back by the axle? wouldn't that allow the rear to go up and down across bumps and driveways? plus you can make them go in and out as needed.

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Those wont work, as they'd let your ladder bars move all over and not restrict your pinion at all. If you had them top and bottom you could just grab the ladder bars by hand and move them up nd down. You need these:


Weld a bung in the end, then screw these into it, and a heim into the adjuster. Then you can simply turn these either way to lengthen, or shorten them. But as Lash stated, you still need the shackle up front also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #489 ·
Ok. I think I got it. I do much better with pictures than with just words, but I found a couple of parts that makes sense. I will pist them up once I make sure they will work. On another note, my head bolts seem to be leaking into the valve cover area. I coated them when I put them in but I guess not well enough. What sealant do you guys use?
 

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Ok. I think I got it. I do much better with pictures than with just words, but I found a couple of parts that makes sense. I will pist them up once I make sure they will work. On another note, my head bolts seem to be leaking into the valve cover area. I coated them when I put them in but I guess not well enough. What sealant do you guys use?
I use Permatex head bolt sealant, even if the head bolts have sealer on the threads.

 

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Discussion Starter · #491 ·

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Discussion Starter · #492 ·
I just want to thank all of you for helping me out. I am not an engineer and I hate math so all of these comments are a huge help to me.
 

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My 2 cents worth, if you don't have a leaking radiator or heater core stay away from those type sealers and go with a thread sealer like the Permatex or equivalent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
I have used yamabond whenever I split the cases on the harleys I have had over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #499 ·
what about the tablets that go into every chevy that goes down the line? Just curious....
 

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what about the tablets that go into every chevy that goes down the line? Just curious....
Never heard of any new cars getting "tablets" in the cooling system? But I'd bet it's more about stopping electrolysis than about sealing new systems. From what I've read about the GM "tablets" they're to prevent electrolysis from eating tiny holes in a cooling system. I never add anything to my cars except 50/50 water and antifreeze. Most antifreeze has stuff in it to help prevent electrolysis these days.
 
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