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I see you’re sharpening your fabrication skills. :) looks great.
 

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Thanks Mario! I was just screwing around one night and found that my exhaust reducers were the perfect size to slide the gauges into.
Dave the more you create things and fabricate the better you get. At the end of the build you’ll kick yourself as you look things over and say to yourself I should have done this and I should have done that. So in short create have fun and take your time. Don’t rush. You get better as you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #464 ·
Lots of progress this weekend. Got the new electric fan in, throttle cable, gauges finished, tach installed and all wiring under the dash buttoned up. even got the motor to bump over. radiator hoses are on. maybe next weekend I can start. will have to see how the money situation is.

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This picture above is after cleaning the garage so all the junk is not around it.
 

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Looking very finished or close to it Dave!
I hope those through the core wire ties don't damage the core of the radiator! Been there, done that myself. I ended up putting straps across the radiator to use the mounting tabs on the 4 places when I replaced the radiator. Bolted the straps to the outer edges, and spaced them off so the heads of the bolts wouldn't touch where they bolted to the fan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #466 ·
not much to report, got the transmission cooler and lines in, gas line to tank all done, oil is in the block, just need to prime it. The only thing left is to hook up the gas to the varbs and radiator fluid. do you guys run 50/50 on the radiator fluid? how many gallons does it usually take?
 

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not much to report, got the transmission cooler and lines in, gas line to tank all done, oil is in the block, just need to prime it. The only thing left is to hook up the gas to the varbs and radiator fluid. do you guys run 50/50 on the radiator fluid? how many gallons does it usually take?
50/50 is what I usually run, but sometimes I dilute it more if I have an engine that runs hot. Water cools better than antifreeze, but I also don't want it too diluted, and risk freezing! Most systems take about 16 qts. total without a heater core. 17 qts. with heater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #468 ·
OK, lots going on behind the scenes but this is where I am at. radiator is topped up, trans fluid is in, and all I really have left is the plug wires and she is ready to fire. Last weekend I finally tackled the ladder bars. Made a cross member and stuck em in. The cat is my nemesis. He insists on being in the garage and when I lay down under the car he comes over and rubs his face all over mine. Every damn orange cat I have had is like that.

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Ladder bars look good Dave. But without a shackle up front, or adjustment on the ends, the rear suspension will be in a constant bind and ride like a buckboard. And could eventually break the mounting points, or the ladder bars. And front end points should have a safety loop in case they ever broke, or the front could drop down and pole vault the rear of the car into the stratosphere!
A shackle angled back will allow the rear axle to travel up and down, and move rearward as the springs compress. Without it the rear axle can't go anywhere. Adjusting heim ends at the front and rear will allow for length, and pinion adjustment, so you can alter them as you add air to the air shocks. Without adjustment you can add air forever until the shocks explode, and it wont change ride height.



 

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
They do have heim joints at the front. should tighten them up and put shackles in there? I can also make some loop to stop launching the car.
 

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I use 3/4-16 heat treated chromoly heim joints
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See how I have 5 mounting options.. the axle is not at ride height in that picture, but I have center hole - ladder bars are parallel to ground then I can go up 2 or down 2. The higher up the harder the tires get planted.. called separation. And I think you need sliders on the leaf springs. VERY nice hotrod!
 

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Dave, the adjustment is important at both ends. You can get by without the inline adjuster on one of the rear points, but without it you'll need to drop the ladder bars out of the rear mount to make any adjustment at all. I don't have inline adjusters either, but last time I adjusted my Austin gasser it was a PITA to drop the back connecting points, adjust, and reinstall, and hope it was correct, and not need to do it two or three times to get it! I should have ordered inline adjusters while it was apart, but was in a hurry and didn't.
QS Components has them in stock, and they seem to have better prices than anyone else I've purchased from on all sots of heim ends, adjusters, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #474 ·
UGH, that means I have to redesign the whole F**cking thing. I built this according to the blueprints I bought off ebay. Dammit
 

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Discussion Starter · #475 ·
OK guys, I think I can salvage what I have made. I will leave the plates welded where they are on the axle and shorten the tubes on the ladder bars and weld bungs in for adjuster. I will leave the front ones alone and do a right hand and left hand on the rears and drill some holes in the welded bracket for adjustments and add shackles to the front. Make sense?
 

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I'm not completely familiar with your setup.. but makes somewhat sense. My Nova was setup with rear leaf springs and ladder bars but didn't have shackles in the front. The ladder bars front mount had 3/4-16 heim joints in a 3 hole inline up or down adjuster. The rear of the ladder bar mounted to the axle bracket with an upper and lower 3/4-16 heim joint and floater leaf springs. It was a very old school setup. Theses are floaters
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Discussion Starter · #477 ·
I am having a hard time picturing how those brackets work. Here is what I do not understand- this sells on Speedway's website which is pretty much like mine. This is my setup except mine is more heavy duty and missing the heim joints at the rear. The problem I have is that I welded the hell out of the rear brackets and I am trying to save all that work.



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Dave, I think you can salvage both front and rear mounting points if you just rework the ladder bars. You may need to do some tweaking at the rear to end up with the same spacing on the two tubes so the heims line up with the two holes in the brackets though.
You'll need to first remove the ladder bars and build up the shackle system and add that up front, which will require the shackles to be on the outside of your front mount vs. heim inside as it is. So some spacers will needed on the heims to be made to match the outside width at the frame mounts. Once you've got that done you can determine how much to cut off the two rear legs to add the weld bungs and heim ends so the shackle up front is angled back about 45-60 degrees. Then you can line the top leg up with the weld bung and heim just slipped in the tube, and trim it until it's got the shackle angle.
At that point you can also see how long the lower leg needs to be, and also see if it needs to be adjusted to line up with your lower mounting point. If it does you can put a pie cut in the tube to let it move until you can slip a bolt through the heim end. Then tack it, and pull the bars off to do final welding.
Of course you'll need the car sitting at ride height when you do all this, or it will not be set correctly until it is sitting at ride height. All this is much simpler with the floaters that Morris Munster linked, as they allow the axle to float on the spring pack, vs. bolting solid to it. So not shackles then, and just heims at the 3 points to adjust pinion angle, and length.
 
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