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Discussion Starter · #421 ·
Good to know!
Once it's neutralized, they make pinch weld primer specifically to treat the area prior to installing the new weatherstrip. I've used it on both rubber weather-strip, and the newer windshields that get caulked in. Great product that does a good job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #422 ·
I have steering! I had a vision mowing the yard yesterday and tried it out and it works! Is it kind of ugly? Yes. Does it go against everything in the books? yes. But it works. I have to make a bracket for my heim joint to stiffen it up but short of raising the motor up, this was the only way. A couple of spacers on the steering arm and the steering box will level out drag link just fine. I also for grins and giggles stuck my junk yard fan set up on there to see how it looks. Those Honda folks think of everything including a catch can built right into it. Once all that is buttoned up, I can put my other fender on and then the grill and it will look like a real car again! Looking at the pictures, I need to spend some time organizing my garage. what a mess!

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Nice going Dave. Glad you worked it out. Just curious, any reason why you didn’t go to the back of the axle to to be parallel to the axle ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #424 ·
Nice going Dave. Glad you worked it out. Just curious, any reason why you didn’t go to the back of the axle to to be parallel to the axle ?
My oil pan is smack dab in the way.
 

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I hope your heim support isn't an issue Dave! It's quite a ways from the steering joint, and I think you're going to have issues with the distance away from the closest joint allowing the steering shaft to flex as you turn the wheel. If you can build a new support bracket that gets the heim closer to the next steering joint, it will help a lot. If the shaft flexes it will result in mushy feeling steering, and can really create issues while driving. With 3 joints in your steering you need a very good support system that doesn't allow any flexing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #426 ·
I hope your heim support isn't an issue Dave! It's quite a ways from the steering joint, and I think you're going to have issues with the distance away from the closest joint allowing the steering shaft to flex as you turn the wheel. If you can build a new support bracket that gets the heim closer to the next steering joint, it will help a lot. If the shaft flexes it will result in mushy feeling steering, and can really create issues while driving. With 3 joints in your steering you need a very good support system that doesn't allow any flexing.
I am planning on supporting the crap out of it. I have an extra heim joint I can use and the lower one can slide up pretty far. I am just so damn happy it steers for now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #427 ·
By the way, that heim is just laying there now.
 

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If you put a second support between the two upper joints, then the lower one you have now doesn't need to move.
Just an idea (for what it's worth) but you could install frame braces from the firewall to out near the ends of the frame rails. Then you could use the driver's side to weld a bracket on to allow a support for the upper heim joint. Would really strengthen the rails, and the steering. Not that the rails need anything, as they're strong enough, but it will be easier to build the heim support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #429 ·
OK, I think I have my steering figured out. Now what is the best way to center or set the Pittman arm in the middle of the wheels as they are pointing straight? I have the steering wheel off so I can put it on where it needs to be, but how do I know the steering box is tight in the middle of the arc? I want to order the drag link, but I am not sure if what I have set up will work.
 

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OK, I think I have my steering figured out. Now what is the best way to center or set the Pittman arm in the middle of the wheels as they are pointing straight? I have the steering wheel off so I can put it on where it needs to be, but how do I know the steering box is tight in the middle of the arc? I want to order the drag link, but I am not sure if what I have set up will work.
Best way is to run a piece of fishing line around the front tires, and then take it to the back tires and pull it tight. It can be secured to the springs once it's run across both sidewalls to keep it tight. Then you can measure from the rear sidewall on each side to the string, and turn the wheels until either both sides are touching, or both sides are equal distance from sidewall to string. That will get the tires as close to true straight as you need to measure for the drag link.
Then you can look at your measurements and see how they compare to set lengths that Speedway sells. They say their drag links can be adjusted 1/4" shorter, and 1/2" longer, so go from that to determine the closest one that fits.
I prefer making my own, as I am not a fan of 1" drag links, or tierods. So I buy 5/8" weld bungs, heim ends, and then make up my own to the exact length I need. My local metal supply store sells 1.25" tubing, and I like the larger OD that wont flex. I buy heims and weld bungs from QS Components cheap, and the whole assembly is less than Speedway, and custom length too; besides being stronger. I buy one end LH, and one end RH, plus heim ends, and jam nuts to match.

 

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Discussion Starter · #431 ·
OK. I think I understand that, but how do I know where the pittman arm goes?
 

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I used the method that Vall describes..also made my own drag link..but I dont like the bung deal ( personal choice thing) so I found the tubing that was just right to do a small drilling clean up too size and tapped mine...speedway ones are way to light I bought one and it was really flimsy...the orginal ford ones that are really thin walled where twice as stiff as the speedway one..oh yea your fan set up is blocking way to much of the radiator...at least lose the over flow bottle....looks to be about a 30 percent of area is covered
 

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Discussion Starter · #434 ·
Bringing my wheel dilemma back yo my page. Here is a pic of the wheels I like and I think it looks great!
107449
 

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Discussion Starter · #436 ·
They're nice wheels, but certainly much newer than the gasser era. Not my personal favorite for sure.
That is exactly why, I keep saying yes, then no.
 

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Bringing my wheel dilemma back yo my page. Here is a pic of the wheels I like and I think it looks great! View attachment 107449

i also posted under my section, but summit caries "vision" wheels in many styles,
like the weld racing ones. heres some of the prostar look a likes, you gotta find
your size/bolt pattern etc., but they are VERY reasonably priced compared to welds--
although the visions are cast 1 piece but theres nothing wrong with that.

 

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Considering how reasonably priced American Torq Thrust TTO's are at just over $500 a set shipped, with chrome lugnuts; I'd be hard pressed to beat them for looks and cost. And they're never wrong on an old school build. I got two 15"x8.5" and two 15"x5" for my car at Ron's Rims for $520, shipped to my door.
 

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Considering how reasonably priced American Torq Thrust TTO's are at just over $500 a set shipped, with chrome lugnuts; I'd be hard pressed to beat them for looks and cost. And they're never wrong on an old school build. I got two 15"x8.5" and two 15"x5" for my car at Ron's Rims for $520, shipped to my door.
The only problem is they're made in chinna. Check ET. Seems they have 15X3 1/2. E-T Classic V.
 

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Hope it links ET Wheels by Team III Wheels. Going to sell my 15X41/2 "American's", 14X5 Western cast centerlines and 15x10 Centerlines to get them.
 
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