I am planning on supporting the crap out of it. I have an extra heim joint I can use and the lower one can slide up pretty far. I am just so damn happy it steers for now!I hope your heim support isn't an issue Dave! It's quite a ways from the steering joint, and I think you're going to have issues with the distance away from the closest joint allowing the steering shaft to flex as you turn the wheel. If you can build a new support bracket that gets the heim closer to the next steering joint, it will help a lot. If the shaft flexes it will result in mushy feeling steering, and can really create issues while driving. With 3 joints in your steering you need a very good support system that doesn't allow any flexing.
Best way is to run a piece of fishing line around the front tires, and then take it to the back tires and pull it tight. It can be secured to the springs once it's run across both sidewalls to keep it tight. Then you can measure from the rear sidewall on each side to the string, and turn the wheels until either both sides are touching, or both sides are equal distance from sidewall to string. That will get the tires as close to true straight as you need to measure for the drag link.OK, I think I have my steering figured out. Now what is the best way to center or set the Pittman arm in the middle of the wheels as they are pointing straight? I have the steering wheel off so I can put it on where it needs to be, but how do I know the steering box is tight in the middle of the arc? I want to order the drag link, but I am not sure if what I have set up will work.
The only problem is they're made in chinna. Check ET. Seems they have 15X3 1/2. E-T Classic V.Considering how reasonably priced American Torq Thrust TTO's are at just over $500 a set shipped, with chrome lugnuts; I'd be hard pressed to beat them for looks and cost. And they're never wrong on an old school build. I got two 15"x8.5" and two 15"x5" for my car at Ron's Rims for $520, shipped to my door.