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Hey Dave, just noticed your new Avatar; I like it especially the patriotic background!! Did you draw it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Hey Dave, just noticed your new Avatar; I like it especially the patriotic background!! Did you draw it?
Thanks! I was searching Instagram and found a guy who draws old cars. Soooooooo, I screenshot it and stole it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #403 ·
well, this is disappointing. I guess holding it up measuring is not the same as actually measuring. Looks like I have to take it somewhere and be shortened. Good news is that I got the battery hooked up and no arcs no sparks and by using my meter, I got some good grounds all over the car.

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Discussion Starter · #406 ·
Well, this is much better. Took about 3 inches out of the driveshaft last night. waaayyyy easier than I thought. After measuring 20 million times, then one more time, I marked out where I wanted the cut, wrapped a manila folder around the driveshaft to get a straight line on both cut lines and took a 1/4 inch out of the cut area ( you will know why in a second) and cut with my cut-off wheel. Then I took the piece I cut off and made a 1/2 inch cut out length wise on the part and then bent it and put it inside both tubes and left a 1/4 inch gap. See what I did there? Welded the crap out of it and it fits like a glove with 1.5 inches hanging out from the end of the tail shaft on the transmission. I now have to center the axle under the car and set and weld for the pinion angle.

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It sounds like you butt welded the driveline tube Dave? And then sanded it smooth? I'd not rely on that as a good strong method to shorten the driveline myself. I usually cut the existing weld using my cutoff wheel, going just deep enough to release the tube from the pressed in yoke. Then shorten the tube, and reinstall the yoke back in with index marks aligned. Then do tack welds at several locations to hold it, and then finish weld the joint.
I hope that butt weld doesn't give up if you hammer the throttle sometime!
 

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Discussion Starter · #408 ·
There is a piece of tube inside the driveshaft that both ends are welded to. That is why I left a 1/4 inch gap so I could connect both tubes to the "slug" inside the shaft.
 

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Dave, you mentioned the "slug", but it sounds like it's just a piece of the same tube split to allow it to fit inside as a "slug"? No offense, but that's just not a very strong way to splice or shorten a driveshaft. It should be done by grinding, or cutting off the weld at the yoke, and then installing the yoke back in after shortening.
I hope your way holds up, but sure hate to hear if it doesn't after all the hard work you've done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
Dave, you mentioned the "slug", but it sounds like it's just a piece of the same tube split to allow it to fit inside as a "slug"? No offense, but that's just not a very strong way to splice or shorten a driveshaft. It should be done by grinding, or cutting off the weld at the yoke, and then installing the yoke back in after shortening.
I hope your way holds up, but sure hate to hear if it doesn't after all the hard work you've done.
well, we sure are gonna find out! That is the way a guy did it on youtube for a 4 wheel drive truck.
 

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well, we sure are gonna find out! That is the way a guy did it on youtube for a 4 wheel drive truck.
Youtube strikes again! If it was a solid slug, or piece of tube that was a press fit inside, I'd feel better about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #412 ·
Youtube strikes again! If it was a solid slug, or piece of tube that was a press fit inside, I'd feel better about it.
Well, since I am strapped for money, it will have to do. This thing is on enough of a budget already.

I did make some awesome progress this weekend. All outside lights work now and I got one fender back on and the headlight works. I love wring these old things!
 

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Discussion Starter · #413 ·
Ok. Qell I was going to finally set up my pinion angle and noticed this. The rear end is way off to the side. And if I move it to where the driveshaft is in line with the rear end, the drivers side tire is way out from under the fender. Any ideas?
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Have you measured from edge of the differential housing to the backing plate on each side to see if it's built with an offset pinion or not? If you measure it and discover the pinion isn't centered, it's no problem. A lot of cars have off center pinions, and some even have engine/trans set off to one side for steering box clearance.
It wont change the pinion angle at all. Just set it opposite the engine down angle, and the offset wont be considered. Regardless of the offset, both ends of the driveshaft will have the same angles to each other, and wont affect the drivetrain. Just center the rear axle so backing plates are the same distance from the perches on each side, and then set the pinion angle correctly.
My 8.8" has a pinion that's off maybe 2.5" and no problem at all.

What will be a problem is clearance to the tubular crossmember and the driveline! Unless it's got more clearance than it appears to have, it might bind the driveline when you hit a bump. If it can be flipped over so it's under the driveline, I'd sure flip it. Otherwise I'd rework it so there's more clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #415 ·
Thanks Vall! I was seriously freaking out. The cross member is well back from the output so no issues there. I will center plate to perch and get it done today!
 

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Actually Dave the farther back it is, the better the chance the driveline can contact it. The driveline might not move up and down with the rear axle more than 1/4" up front, but at the rear it moves up and down whatever the axle travel is. So somewhere in the middle it's half of whatever axle travel is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #417 ·
sorry Vall, I meant towards the front of the car. There is nothing between the output and the axle. That cross member is what hiolds the back of the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #418 ·
Well, still stressing out about the steering, so I decided to try something new. I was wiring up my 8 track player and noticed that I could see and really get to the 4 nuts that hold the stainless trim onto the windshield at the bottom and the 2 bolts holding the windshield wiper arm brackets. Sssoooo, I took them all off and removed the entire windshield wiper assembly, along with the motor since it is vacuum powered and the left over defroster vents. Then I took the windshield out! Pretty easy after cutting away the very bottom of the gasket and sliding them out. The even better news is that there was only light surface rust over the entire channel. Not sure if it was the original windshield, but they had a sealer of some sort that when I wire brushed it off, it was clean bare metal. So, I am going to use my Eastwood rust encapsulator on the whole channel and save up for a new windshield.
 

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Once it's neutralized, they make pinch weld primer specifically to treat the area prior to installing the new weatherstrip. I've used it on both rubber weatherstrip, and the newer windshields that get caulked in. Great product that does a good job.
 
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