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Well, time for me to join the party. My first stint on here I was building a 1949 chevy styleline 2 door gasser. Ran into money problems and went back to HD choppers. Well, sold my bike and decided I was going to go another direction. I started with my running gear first since that is where most of the money is. So, without further ado, here we go!


For the motor- it is a mid 70's 350 bored .040. Camel hump heads with screw in studs, comp cams muthr thumpr, Edelbrock air gap intake, edelbrock carb, new pistons, polished crank etc...

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Transmission is early 80's TH350 with 56000 miles on it. I put a B&M shift kit in and a new pan. Should be in good shape there.....

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Rear end is out of a 1997 Trans Am WS6 with 15x10 wheels on it.

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Front tires are morose drag skinnys

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continued next post....
 

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Just picked this up today- 1950 chevy truck axle set up. Great shape, spindles are rock solid, all I need to do is buy the kit to put disc brakes on it. 50 bucks!

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And the best deal yet was this 1948 styleline frame from Arizona. still had the factory brake master cylinder and all lines on it for 100 bucks! Not a speck of rust that needs attention. Looks like it came from the factory.

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Scored a set of bucket? seats from one of those hotel vans they pick you up in the airport with for free. Will re cover and find sliders for them but pretty comfy.

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Attached stand offs on the inside frame rails for holding brake, fuel and power lines. If you have not heard of BungKing.com check them out.

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Started marking center lines of current front and rear tires so I get the replacements in the same spot. I actually saved my notes from the last build so I won't even need a body yet to get them on. The rear axle is going under the springs.

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Wow Dave you are on your way. My jaw dropped when I got done reading and seeing your posts. I have the same front axle on my MG with the disc conversion kit and mid seventies bearings rotors and calipers.
 

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Wow Dave you are on your way. My jaw dropped when I got done reading and seeing your posts. I have the same front axle on my MG with the disc conversion kit and mid seventies bearings rotors and calipers.
Thanks Mario! Where did you buy the disc conversion kit from? Speedways website is a bit confusing as I am still relatively new to the straight axle game.
 

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Unfortunately I purchased mine locally who ordered it for me. I didn’t know better back then. I can look at speedway and see if it’s like mine later for you.
 

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Unfortunately I purchased mine locally who ordered it for me. I didn’t know better back then. I can look at speedway and see if it’s like mine later for you.
I think I found them but it says I have to machine my spindles? Is that right?
 

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Speedway's site is where I got my disc brake conversion. There's really two options there and they are Chevy or Ford bolt pattern. But they also offer two disc diameters, and I prefer the smaller rotors for clearance for any wheel. Here's the link to what you need for your axle if you go Chevy pattern. No machining needed.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-Disc-Brake-Kit-1947-1959-Chevy-Half-Ton-Pickup,4622.html

Good to note the wheelbase length, but don't get hung up on keeping it stock length, or it will look goofy when it's raised higher! Most people go 1"-2" forward with the front axle to keep it centered or slightly forward when swapping in a straight axle. I went 1.5" on my Falcon, and 1" on my Austin.

Be careful with piston choice when using the small chamber camel hump heads, or your compression will end up too high, and your engine will ping even on premium octane gas! I'd go with 10cc dished pistons to work with those small 62cc combustion chambers.
I went with flat tops on my Austin and camel humps, and my compression is high enough I need to add octane booster, or race fuel to my premium gas to avoid detonation.
 

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I think I found them but it says I have to machine my spindles? Is that right?
If it’s a Chevy truck spindle mine needed a spacer on the inside to accommodate the rotor grease seal and space out the bearing to line up with the caliper bracket. Which came with the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Speedway's site is where I got my disc brake conversion. There's really two options there and they are Chevy or Ford bolt pattern. But they also offer two disc diameters, and I prefer the smaller rotors for clearance for any wheel. Here's the link to what you need for your axle if you go Chevy pattern. No machining needed.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe-Disc-Brake-Kit-1947-1959-Chevy-Half-Ton-Pickup,4622.html

Good to note the wheelbase length, but don't get hung up on keeping it stock length, or it will look goofy when it's raised higher! Most people go 1"-2" forward with the front axle to keep it centered or slightly forward when swapping in a straight axle. I went 1.5" on my Falcon, and 1" on my Austin.

Be careful with piston choice when using the small chamber camel hump heads, or your compression will end up too high, and your engine will ping even on premium octane gas! I'd go with 10cc dished pistons to work with those small 62cc combustion chambers.
I went with flat tops on my Austin and camel humps, and my compression is high enough I need to add octane booster, or race fuel to my premium gas to avoid detonation.
Thanks for the link Vall! I did see in my notes that on my other one I did move it forward of the center line 1 inch. Heading out to lunch soon to pick up some 2x3 inch metal stock to make perches for the springs. As for pistons my engine guy said the same thing so I got some dished pistons will put me right where I need to be. My engine guy has been drag racing for over 30 years and is setting me up for a great street/ light to light car!

Now I just have to figure out the torque converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If it’s a Chevy truck spindle mine needed a spacer on the inside to accommodate the rotor grease seal and space out the bearing to line up with the caliper bracket. Which came with the kit.
Be prepared for questions.... :)
 

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My disc brake kit for my '55-'59 truck axle came with spacers also. It's in there because the spindle will run out of threads before the spindle nut get tight against the bearings. I put my Austin together for mockup and as most guys do, I didn't read the instructions first. Got it all together and spun the nut down and it ran out of threads before it got close. Decided I better read the instructions, and get it right, even if it was just mockup.

One other heads up on the kit. The brackets for the steering arms will not clear the kingpins. I have no idea why Speedway doesn't make them to clear, or give longer bolts and spacer bushings in the kits? But you'll need to put spacers between the spindles and the arms that are thick enough to allow them to clear the kingpins.
Have to just hold them up and measure how thick the spacers need to be as I don't recall the size? I cut mine off some thick wall DOM tube and put them over the bolts to space it out. I tack welded them to the arms once they were tightened down just so they wouldn't have a chance of rocking and loosening the bolts.
 

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Be prepared for questions.... :)
Not to worry Dave it’s pretty straight forward. I can find pics on my thread too.
 

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I found these pics for you.
attachment.jpg attachment-3.jpg attachment-4.jpg attachment-6.jpg attachment-7.jpg
 

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I used the extra steering arm I had left over. attachment.jpg
 

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I used the extra steering arm I had left over. View attachment 100849
Thanks for the pictures, I dropped 500 today at speedway and bought all the stuff I need to get both axles set. I also bought the motor mount set up you have. They have brackets especially made for 49-52 chevys.
 

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I used the extra steering arm I had left over. View attachment 100849
If you had "extras" then you didn't use the supplied arms for the tierod I'm guessing? I thought about using the stock tierod and arms, and using the supplied arms to attach the drag link? But I think with a wider axle I want to fabricate a larger diameter tierod and use the supplied arms. So I'll probably bite the bullet and get a pair of arms to add one to the off side to attach the drag link.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Been shopping for a body for the car. I chose the 49-52 chevy because I like it and the frame was the same for 4 years running. Also, other makes used it as well. Here are some i am looking at.

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That last pic is of the business coupes floor. I love the look of the business coupes, but that floor may be beyond my meager skills to fix. He only wants 1000 dollars and I am sure I can get him down lower. We will have to wait and see....
 

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I wouldn't worry about rusted out floors. They make patch panels that aren't too spendy. As long as the rockers are solid. Rockers are a PITA to replace, and are a game changer to me. Having just finished rockers on my '39 I'm looking forward to simple floor repairs!
Floor patch panels for front and rear can be found on Ebay for under $300 for all 4 pans. Likely you wont need the center hump as they never rust out. The 4 pans should get all, and whatever they don't cover can be patched with just small flat strips if needed.

I personally think the fastbacks are cool, but don't work as a gasser for me.
 
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