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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Guys
Its been a few months since I have been on here but finally I now have time to work in my shed
Question- should my drag link be as parallel as possible tie rod, I have a unisteer set up and wondering to mount tierod end above or below my steering arm..... above is parallel but with 3" max spring clearance .... below is heaps of clearance but lots of downward angle
Here are some pics so far Any tips advice would be greatly appreciated



Tie rod end above steering arm
Cheers Franky from down under :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
And more pics....... So am I correct in thinking the more parallel the tie rod to drag link the better????

Tie rod end below steering arm
 

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Man you had me realy screwed up till I noticed you were from Austrailia! Keep it as parrallell as you can. My Comet was built with severe drop on cross steer and drove like crap on the street I changed mounting on passenger spindle to make it parrellell and the difference is night and day, like power steering compared to old set up and way less play in steering wheel.
 

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Yes, try to get it as parallel as possible. Like Judd said, it will steer easier and with less bump steer. Mark L
 

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If it isn't parallel, then slightly higher at the steering box is not too bad. A bit higher will allow it to flatten and be parallel when you hit a bump, but not too much higher. If it's perfectly parallel, then when you hit a bump it will be uphill, and have a slight bump steer.
No way to completely eliminate it, but the longer the longer the drag link, and closer to parallel, the less effect it will have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Man you had me realy screwed up till I noticed you were from Austrailia! Keep it as parrallell as you can. My Comet was built with severe drop on cross steer and drove like crap on the street I changed mounting on passenger spindle to make it parrellell and the difference is night and day, like power steering compared to old set up and way less play in steering wheel.
I had a good ol chuckle, I thought that might happen...... when my drag link and tierod are parallel I only have 3" before it will hit the underside of the chassis rail, they are speedway motors springs so I'm unsure if that will be enough clearance, If I reverse the taper on the steering arm and put the tierod end underneath the steering arm I have an easy 4 1/2" of clearance....... just wondering if a 1 1/2" drop would be that noticeable??????...... I'm only a newby at this steering game... what do you guys think Cheers and a merry xmas, the fatman is on his way to Oz so I hope all your stockings are full of many carparts and all your tanks are full
 

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i put a speedway straight axle under my binder. it has chevy spindles and a vega box with cross steer. my drag link is probably to perfectly parallel. sometimes when i hit small bumps going slow, maybe 20 to 30 mph, it gets like speed wobbles. it keeps goin straight but wobbles violently. at highway speeds it hasnt done it yet, but i can tell its thinkin about it. do you think its from bein to parallel? or could it be something else?
 

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i put a speedway straight axle under my binder. it has chevy spindles and a vega box with cross steer. my drag link is probably to perfectly parallel. sometimes when i hit small bumps going slow, maybe 20 to 30 mph, it gets like speed wobbles. it keeps goin straight but wobbles violently. at highway speeds it hasnt done it yet, but i can tell its thinkin about it. do you think its from bein to parallel? or could it be something else?
Check your angle on the kingpins. Sounds like you need more neg. angle, like around 7-10 degrees. Also check toe in; be sure it's not zero, but more like 1/8"-1/4" toe in. Other possibility is any play anywhere in the setup, so check all the bolts to ensure it's tight.
 

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i went with 8 degrees. i checked and everything is tight so i'll check toe in again. thank you for any advice, this is my first straight axle.
 

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I use two sticks, or pieces of conduit. Just something that's fairly ridgid, and long enough to overlap between the tires. Put them together between the front sidewalls of the tires with duct tape, then go to the rear and see if it fits. If it goes easily you can see how much wider the back side is over the front. If it's tight, then you're toe'd out, and need to adjust. You can remove the tape and adjust until you see it's snug in front, and lightly loose behind.
 
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