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There's a big Rock-A-Billy Rumble-style car show and swap meet tomorrow in the next town over, loads of Gassers and Rat Rods, tattoos and Bar-B-Q, pin-striping and burlesque.

A buddy is bring some parts to sell and swap including an old Bug Catcher that pretty much blew off of his Oldsmobile powered '53 Stude. It would take some fussing to rig up a mount to fit a single four barrel rather than the original blower, but I'd like to scoop it up before the meet.

Wondering if it's too cheesy to run a blower scoop on a carburetor or if it's just Ol' Skool Cool and forget about everyone else? It would work well with the project that I'm just getting back into, but without the "background story" it's just gonna look like I tossed on a Bug Catcher where it didn't belong. Kind of a cheat if you know what I mean?

Looking for some truthful opinions . . .

Thanks—

Tommy
 

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If its not sticking up to high out of the hood it would look cool...... angle and dangle make the look......lol....its what you can"t see that makes some one look closer
 

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I'm in complete agreement with Lash. I have the scoops on both my cars sticking out about about 2/3. That's the look I personally like but ultimately it's your call and your preference.
 

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I'm not a fan of a scoop that sits up too high, but don't always have a choice in height, depending on how the engine sits.
On my Austin I have the old Hilborn style scoop, and actually had to use polished aluminum air cleaner spacers to get it up high enough!


On my Falcon I had the opposite problem. The big Chevy is tall enough that the carbs sit just through the hood, so the whole scoop sits above the hood. It's OK, but would prefer an inch or two lower.
 

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what year econoline ? i have a 63 econoline pickup . the axle on it is 53 kp to kp . seems to be the same track as the falcon.
 

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They're all the same if they have an I bema axle. Difference is the drums. Some have pressed on drums (early) and later have drums that slip over the hubs. Remember the 53" kp to kp is 8" less than hub mating surface! So add 8" plus the offset on the front wheel/tire, and it ends up about 10"-12" wider than that 53" measurement!
 

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Yes, it is 55.75", but that width looks odd if the car has a straight axle under it. The higher the front end goes, the wider it needs to be to look good. At least to my eyes. If the stock track width is maintained on a nose high car, they look like old tractors with narrow track width in front.
The '38 Chevy axle I'm planning on swapping into my Falcon has a 2" narrower track width, plus the spring perches are 6" narrower, so they sit perfectly centered on the frame rails. Doesn't hurt that it's drilled and chromed either! ;) Plus they accept Falcon spindles with a little modification!
 

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never done a falcon. put chevy van axles under all kinds of stuff. but your right i dont want the skinny look in the front. would like the tires to set slightly outside or look like they fill the wheel well . guess i will just drag some axles out and mock it up. i have my wheels and tires and a 9 inch. wont start on it until winter. have 2 jobs i'm finishing up now.
 

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The early 50's Chevy truck axles are 1.5" narrower than '55-'59 Chevy truck axles. The Chevy van and Econoline axles are about 1"-1.5" wider than the late 50's Chevy truck axles. 1930's Chevy or Ford car straight axles are slightly narrower than the early 50's Chevy truck axles. But all of them will result in a wider track than the stock Falcon.
If a guy is building a Falcon and not setting up the rear tires to be even or outside the rear openings a bit, then a wide front track will look strange. But if the rear openings are radiused, and fat rubber hanging out a little, then a wider front track looks just fine.
 

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i have a 52 in 9in and a set of bob glidden wheels. tires will be outside . i will mock up with the 53 chevy truck axle. rather have the front a little wider than sucked under the fender. be glad when winter gets here so i can start on it .
thanks for the info !
 

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One other thing. I wasn't keen on the idea of welding brackets to the Unibody frame, as the contact points were so small, and I questioned if they might tear out over time. I purchased 1"x3"x1/8" box tubing, and shaped it to fit the entire length of the front Unibody subframe rails. Figured it would spread the support over a large area, and also give more substantial metal to weld to. I then added subframe connectors, and welded the box tubing into them. And then used round tube to connect the subframe connectors into the rockers and floor pans.
Some pics here, and subsequent pages:
http://www.gasserhotrods.com/forum/showthread.php?1072-63-Falcon-Futura-Gasser/page28
 

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I seen a bbc blower motor dynoed with a bug catcher scoop and those small breathers. The 4 rear cylinders run lean. Pulling it and the breathers off, netted about 25 more HP.
 
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