Gasser HotRod Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,595 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Millermatic 211, the new smaller style and mine is a 2015, died. Airgas says it's a $900-ish motherboard to fix or $1,355 for a new one. Mine is only 6 years old. Really? Sold my Lincoln 180c because this was welding like butter. Now I only have my stick welder and a gas welder. Even sold My TIG because I suck at TIG welding. Crap!

So does anyone have an idea on what to do? Seems that they do not diagnose problems on the circuit boards, just replace them. Like a bad rocker arm means a new engine.

Not sure I want to invest another $1400 in a new one of the same.

Hate to think I will revert back to a basic Harbor Freight welder and not care if it breaks or does crap welds...

OK, sorry for the rant but I had to tell someone who could relate...

On a good note, it has been sunny and 60* so I drove my '63 a bunch. good therapy.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,197 Posts
Mike have you contacted Miller directly to see if they repair the circuit boards? Or searched Ebay? I see numerous 211 circuit boards on Ebay for $120-$250. I'd check there to see if any have warranties before buying. Need to check your board number to compare with those listed, as many don't say for sure which Miller they're for.
My Miller is almost 12 yrs. old now, and keeping my fingers crossed. Seems odd the board costs almost as much as a new welder.
Hard for me to say good things about Harbor freight welders, but their latest are actually very good quality! I used a new Titanium Pro series 200 for the neighbor's '35 Plymouth. Had to eat a little crow after giving him a bad time about his choice, as it made beautiful welds throughout the project. And it was just $600 on sale then. About $670 now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
631 Posts
howdy guys, I had a Miller 211 for some fabrication and general work around my place. Since I keep my rig in the barn my problem was dirt, dust, mouse hair etc. or a worn out liner due that debris or wear. Sold it and upgraded to a Miller 252 it's a great machine, but I seem to be having a problem with the way the wire is feeding. I haven't changed the tension on the spool or anything. I am thinking maybe it's that the gun lead isn't straight enough or something. Does the lead have to be perfectly straight? The machine is in my barn.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,197 Posts
No, if it's in good shape, and adjusted the lead can be in pretty tight circles and still feed. I adjust my drive wheel tension as the dealer told me to years ago. Put the tip at 45 degrees to a hard surface, and hit the trigger. If the wire pushes out with the resistance of the 45 degree surface the tension is good. If it doesn't, then tighten it until it does. Of course you need to use a wood surface, or an ungrounded metal so it wont try to weld as you do this adjustment test.

Another issue of being in your barn is moisture in the air causing rust on the wire! You may not see it, but it will be there and build up inside the liner for the feed. Ass you weld the build up will get worse, and eventually cause too much restriction. If I stored mine in a moist atmosphere I'd pull the wire off when not in use, and take it in the house. But if you use it often it wont be an issue, as you'll constantly be cycling new wire through. Just if it sits more than a couple weeks.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,197 Posts
How long are those wiper pads Steve? My Miller drive wheels are pretty close to the roll of wire, so don't have a ton of space.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
How long are those wiper pads Steve? My Miller drive wheels are pretty close to the roll of wire, so don't have a ton of space.
I got out there today and got my welder pulled out enough so I could open the access door and measure the pads. They both are 1" long Vall. One other thing I forgot to mention is that I also use nozzle gel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,511 Posts
Yea.. I use nozzle gel also if I am doing a long run...and have the mini wipers on my wire as well...I bet you are using the Gel on other things to.........lol
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,197 Posts
Are you saying you use the nozzle jell on the nozzle of your gun, or inside the wipers to help them wipe better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
631 Posts
Vall and Lash, Thank you for the feedback. I went to my local airgas store to inquire about the wire pad and NO they did not have it but did have a 5 oz weld aid lube matic got it. Once back home got on line order from amazon the wire kleener pad. I don't buy the 10 lbs because the price is higher then the 30 lbs + wire. Vall I like the idea of take off the wire when not in use. will start buying the 10 lbs lighter to remove and put back. Lash nozzle gel what is that ???? once again thanks guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Are you saying you use the nozzle jell on the nozzle of your gun, or inside the wipers to help them wipe better?
That's correct Vall, you dip the nozzle in as needed to help control spatter.

106982
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Yea.. I use nozzle gel also if I am doing a long run...and have the mini wipers on my wire as well...I bet you are using the Gel on other things to.........lol
Ah yes, great minds think alike :rolleyes:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,197 Posts
I've never used the dip stuff. Back in the mid 70's I worked tig welding repairs on kiln chain, and the company bought spray anti spatter stuff to shoot the inside of the nozzles. So I've always just used the spray stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,511 Posts
Yea Vall the big three wipers..Gel..and anti splatter if using a lot of heat...I had some but ran out and never replaced it...there is a new type gel out that is a thin water base is works better, but I still have some of the gel so I will use that up first...Steve my Gel is better cause you can use it on your hair to comb into a Pompadour..or just go for the greaser look...I got my eye on you.....lol
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Yea Vall the big three wipers..Gel..and anti splatter if using a lot of heat...I had some but ran out and never replaced it...there is a new type gel out that is a thin water base is works better, but I still have some of the gel so I will use that up first...Steve my Gel is better cause you can use it on your hair to comb into a Pompadour..or just go for the greaser look...I got my eye on you.....lol
Geeeeezzzz and here all these years I've thought that herpes of the eye was an urban myth. You are the man Lash, granted a freak, but you are definitely the man!!!! LMAO :oops:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,197 Posts
All this welding talk got me thinking about my hood. I've had this Speedglas auto darkening hood for a decade, and never been really happy with it. But the other day while fixing my door, I could barely see to weld with it. I finally got it done, but then I came inside and tried to find new lenses for it. Inside and outside were pretty ugly after a decade of use, but can't find any I'm sure will fit. I see no model # on it, other than on the removable control unit. I think it's a #100, but looking at today's #100 it looks different.
I finally gave up as I'm unsure, and I'll take it to my local welding supply store that it came from and see if they have any lenses. I'd like to get a magnifier for the inside too. But in the meantime I had it apart, so used some plastic polish to polish out the minor scratches, and then some glass cleaner for the finish. I can see a lot better, but we'll see how it works when I weld.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
No, if it's in good shape, and adjusted the lead can be in pretty tight circles and still feed. I adjust my drive wheel tension as the dealer told me to years ago. Put the tip at 45 degrees to a hard surface, and hit the trigger. If the wire pushes out with the resistance of the 45 degree surface the tension is good. If it doesn't, then tighten it until it does. Of course you need to use a wood surface, or an ungrounded metal so it wont try to weld as you do this adjustment test.

Another issue of being in your barn is moisture in the air causing rust on the wire! You may not see it, but it will be there and build up inside the liner for the feed. Ass you weld the build up will get worse, and eventually cause too much restriction. If I stored mine in a moist atmosphere I'd pull the wire off when not in use, and take it in the house. But if you use it often it wont be an issue, as you'll constantly be cycling new wire through. Just if it sits more than a couple weeks.
At the railroad where I worked, we would put a clothes pin and a piece of felt dipped in cleaner just before the feed reel to clean any dirt or rust before the wire went into the gun. Our machines were usually outside 24/7 and this worked very well for us. You might give that a shot.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,197 Posts
At the railroad where I worked, we would put a clothes pin and a piece of felt dipped in cleaner just before the feed reel to clean any dirt or rust before the wire went into the gun. Our machines were usually outside 24/7 and this worked very well for us. You might give that a shot.
Not sure my small Miller 140 has room for a clothespin's length. Width of a clothespin wouldn't be an issue, but the wire feed rollers are only about 1.5" off the bottom, so length would be.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top