Brendon's (Father's) '56 Chevy gasser project

2951 Views 50 Replies 11 Participants Last post by maddog3299, 2 d ago

Tuske427

Discussion Starter · 5 mo ago

Hey everyone,

Since selling my Triassic-Five my father mentioned to me that I could build him a car, and after some back n forth it was narrowed down to a '56 Chevy gasser. He really liked my Triassic-Five, and while I briefly considered giving it to him, it would have been a bit much for him and never would have passed a NY state safety inspection (where he lives), so the plan is to make a tamer, more streetable one that he can enjoy and wouldn't need as much maintenance as I'm 2800 miles away and won't have the ability to help. Also, since his summer driving months are a bit shorter and he's 73 now, I want to get him driving sooner than later- ideally this spring, so a total ground build is out of the question. I located a dated street rod '56 on FB marketplace up in Paso Robles that has a decent enough driver paint/ chrome, has been rewired, working wipers/ vintage air HVAC and really only needs a good makeover to look the part. I brought this home on Friday and will start taking it apart this week. It has a 350 now which is eating oil and I'll take it out to have it rebuilt into a 391 stroker for a bit more torque, install a manual transmission, as well as a proper exhaust, a more traditional interior, and an appropriate stance. Anyway, that's the general plan. More to come.

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41 - 51 of 51 Posts

Tuske427

Discussion Starter · #41 · 1 mo ago

1937Austin said:
No, they appear to be farther back then the original front mounts, but not as far back as side mounts usually are. I am curious, as there must be another part to these mounts that goes into the new frame mounts, and adapts to the typical side motor mount? Some sort of round biscuit style mount maybe? I'm sure they're fine, just curious to me since I haven't seen this type before.

I think they are a Chassis Engineering brand or something similar. and they assemble like this pic I pulled online:

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that top plate bolts to the block (3 bolts) and uses a vertical rubber mount like shown. the lower part on my car is bolted to the crossmember (welded bracket in this pic) it makes for a nice easy drop in assembly. I've upgraded the fasteners to NAS bolts with proper grip length in the crossmember, and for now have grade 8 for the other areas. I may upgrade more once everything is sorted out and I'm sure of the final engine location.

here's another pic I've since found on a Tri-5

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vht

· #42 · 1 mo ago

Engine looks really good! Does that GTO have a 400 or 455 in it?

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Tuske427

Discussion Starter · #43 · 11 d ago

seems I'm overdue for an update, so here are some various pics to help catch everyone up.

-engine and trans are in

trans crossmember rebuilt to support a T56
will need to re do the parking brake assy to clear the driveshaft (yet to order one but I can see it'll be in the way)
driver side header modified for clearance from steering gearbox and headers sent off for coating (ugh- up to 12 week lead time)
rear seats recovered

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Tuske427

Discussion Starter · #44 · 11 d ago

more detailed pics of the trans crossmember from what I started with (imo poor offset design with thin wall tubing) and I rotated it 90 degrees to not only place the load/ attaching point of trans itself closer to the line of the end mounting points having it like this gives me more room for exhaust tubing as the mount is now higher up where it attaches to the chassis helping ensure I keep everything above the scrub line of the car.

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Tuske427

Discussion Starter · #45 · 11 d ago

more detailed shots of the header tube modification, and O2 bung addition... Headers were sent off to Swaintech for that White Lightning coating- same thicker white ceramic coating I used on my Triassic-Five. only downside is a long lead time- 6 to 12 weeks. if the latter then this car won't be running until late august or even september as I'l lbe traveling for work then, too

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Tuske427

Discussion Starter · #46 · 11 d ago

this brings us up to today... Inspired from an article I saw on Hot Rod I think- using an old toolbox for a battery box. I added holes on each end for ventilation, added a master cut off switch, also added a second relay (ford starter solenoid) which keeps the long + bat cable dead unless starting the car. only 6" or less of + bat cable is hot at all times. Much safer this way and then the 8 gauge wire which is what powers the rest of the car is protected by a fusable link. Also the threads for clamping the bat down are removable so ones the - side is disconnected the entire bat box can be slid forward to not have to lug the bat out of the box so far in the trunk.

I also started to wire the fuel injection system so all my wiring modifications to the rear of the car as set and started to put the interior back in. I'll be adding lap belts in the rear and hope to work on that tomorrow.

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vht

· #47 · 10 d ago

That is looking really good. I'm also going to do the continuous relay, or solenoid as I call them in the rear and a kill switch so I can shut the alt and everything down. I had a 16 volt battery in my dragster and I done it that way. It scares me to think of a positive cable shorting out.

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