Brandon, the more I think about it, the more I think you should have a 49-52 chevy gasser hot wheels car. I would think it would be a hot seller. LOL!
yeah, for the brakes, this is correct. my issue was I wasn't moving enough volume of brake fluid. At first my pedal would go straight to the floor with virtually no effort and the hydroboost unit would push back on my pedal and the car wouldn't even stop. so I first tried the larger bore master cylinder, which helped, but wasn't enough, as my pedal would still go down too far. but now, with the larger bore cylinder plus relocating the push rod down lower on the brake pedal (farther away from the pivot point) it now moves enough fluid to stop the car with relatively little pedal travel. the hydroboost unit itself provides more than enough assist so pedal effort isn't an issue at all.Moving the pushrod lower, or further away from the pivot point should give less leverage, not more. But if it's working, that's great.
Congrats Brendon. Real happy for you with a great accomplishment. You should be real proud.
sorry about your engine troubles. Did anyone check for intake leaks at the base just to make sure you have a good fit too?
Thanks, guys. It's not the end of the world to take it out and have it redone. At this point with all the issues I'm having I want it out and redone. I will have it run on a dyno, though, before it goes back in to ensure it's working and not leaking ha ha.Any ideas as to what's not right on the engine? Is compression good and equal on all cylinders? Sure hate to see it all come apart and rebuilt again!
That's a very good point, thank you. Currently, if I just remove it then my steering arm will be that much more angled adding in some bump steer. Maybe it won't be that much? I'll have to investigate to see what I can do to minimize that offset. I was also thinking of welding material around the arm to make it more like an "I beam" shape for strength, too.If you can remove the spacer on the steering arm/drag link, it will be less likely to bend the arm.
Noted on the smaller angle, and yeah, I was thinking about how I could go all the way around the arm to tie it all the way back to where it's mounted on the spindle, too to really help reinforce it and minimize the twisting. Perhaps a combination of the two modifications will do it.A small angle wont normally induce any recognizable bump steer. But your plan of making the steering arm more like an I beam might help. More like an angle iron beam would help more as it would allow the angle added to extend clear to the end if welded to the outside edge.
These arms seem to not be very hard. Maybe intentionally to avoid breaking from being brittle? But I've seen bent arms in several cars, and usually always when a tall spacer is used.
the axle and spindle I have is from a 1957 chevy truck. Noted, and agreed, that the set up now is not up to the task . it bent up like this with less than 10 miles of driving. I do believe that by welding up a reinforcing edge around it, it'll turn the flat bar into an I beam which should greatly strengthen it. I have material and a welder, and am inclined to try this first. If this doesn't work I'll def be on the hunt for something else, much more like what your link takes me to.I think I would toss it out and use this instead 1/2" thick, deep holes for the bolts Ford Lower Tie Rod Steering Arms, Plain, Tapered I have a set that I was going to use and moved to a different set up....the ones you have are for T- buckets and lighter cars like a Nova and are for use on the cross link with less load ..not really for the steering arm...I dont now what your spindle specs are so may not work for you they come in tappered style and threaded style
yeah, I have some material laying around and am planning on doing this. I'll be getting my John Henry on by hammering the metal into shape, with heat, of course, to reduce the effort and stress on the metal itselfYou could plate the edge with 1/4"-3/8" bar that could be 1" wide and hang below and above the arm, basically centered on the outside edge towards the tire. Probably better than just going up or down, and easier to weld on both edges. With 3/8" might have to heat to bend it into shape, but 1/4" could be cold bent to match the contours.