[dsb]

Brandon, the more I think about it, the more I think you should have a 49-52 chevy gasser hot wheels car. I would think it would be a hot seller. LOL!

 

[Tuske427]

OK, update on my car: I had a friend stop over to look at my engine to adjust the valves who knows a thing or two about Chevy engines. I removed the valve covers, he took a brief look and said I've got a problem. He was able to tell just by looking at it that my valvetrain was set up wrong. So I had too short of push rods on the intake valves, too short of rocker arm studs, and too small of the rocker arm retainer bolts. This happened last week. He determined the size I needed and came back today with the new parts and installed them for me and set the valve lash. then he advanced the timing a few degrees, and suggested I change my FITech throttle linkage to a 1:1 set up. I did that and it runs much better. No videos or pics worth showing at the moment, but I'll get some video soon. it now starts and idles and doesn't pop or backfire. It's also not blowing clouds of fuel out the exhaust, either. That's the good news. The bad news is my engine is leaking like a sieve. I'll have to check back into all that another day. ugh. I did put a few miles on the car this evening, which was fun. Still needs an alignment, too. but it's ok enough to drive around locally. I also need to seriously adjust my speedometer. it says I'm doing 100mph when I'm doing about 10 mph lol

As for my brakes- I replaced the master cylinder with one that has a larger bore (corvette- 1 1/8" bore) and relocated the push rod lower on the brake pedal for more leverage, and now the brakes work great, just like they should.

 

[1946Austin]

Moving the pushrod lower, or further away from the pivot point should give less leverage, not more. But if it's working, that's great.

 

[Tuske427]

Moving the pushrod lower, or further away from the pivot point should give less leverage, not more. But if it's working, that's great.

yeah, for the brakes, this is correct. my issue was I wasn't moving enough volume of brake fluid. At first my pedal would go straight to the floor with virtually no effort and the hydroboost unit would push back on my pedal and the car wouldn't even stop. so I first tried the larger bore master cylinder, which helped, but wasn't enough, as my pedal would still go down too far. but now, with the larger bore cylinder plus relocating the push rod down lower on the brake pedal (farther away from the pivot point) it now moves enough fluid to stop the car with relatively little pedal travel. the hydroboost unit itself provides more than enough assist so pedal effort isn't an issue at all.

I believe I misspoke above. I meant volume

 

[Tuske427]

more updates. Engine still isn't right so it's coming out to be rebuilt. professionally. good times

 

[mmhotrod]

Congrats Brendon. Real happy for you with a great accomplishment. You should be real proud.
sorry about your engine troubles. Did anyone check for intake leaks at the base just to make sure you have a good fit too?

 

[1946Austin]

Any ideas as to what's not right on the engine? Is compression good and equal on all cylinders? Sure hate to see it all come apart and rebuilt again!

 

[Tuske427]

Congrats Brendon. Real happy for you with a great accomplishment. You should be real proud.
sorry about your engine troubles. Did anyone check for intake leaks at the base just to make sure you have a good fit too?

Any ideas as to what's not right on the engine? Is compression good and equal on all cylinders? Sure hate to see it all come apart and rebuilt again!

Thanks, guys. It's not the end of the world to take it out and have it redone. At this point with all the issues I'm having I want it out and redone. I will have it run on a dyno, though, before it goes back in to ensure it's working and not leaking ha ha.

to recap- the valvetrain misassembly, clacking/ knocking, inside, the collapsed lifter, the head gasket leak/ coolant inside the engine and multiple oil leaks (some were valve covers, one was the distributor having a gap from the manifold- should have an adjustable sleeve but I don't)