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Camaro Central has factory chrome BBC valve covers, they even have a set that is taller to clear roller rockers but they look just like the factory ones. 60 bucks a set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #462 ·
all good suggestions, thanks, guys! I will want to keep the hydroboost unit as it provides my brake assist. Otherwise I'd need to go manual brakes or try to fit a vacuum booster which I never estimated space for. I'm hoping I can use that OEM part shown in my other post, and if need be make a small relief into the M/T valve cover. I may not receive that until next week so I'll continue on other areas still needing assembly until then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #463 ·
Update:

That OEM part came early, and while it technically fits, this doesn't account for any engine shaking/ vibration or twisting under load of accelerating or decelerating. Even notching the valve cover itself would need to be significant in multiple areas, I think it's time to look for another set of valve covers.

one option- the Camaro Central BBC chrome ones, (thank you @vht) which may mimic the 2LBT '55 as that had nondescript looking chrome ones I believe. With the larger radii along the top edges they should provide more clearance than I'm getting now.

Another- is the attached images. these are marine application ones by Eddie Motorsports. They provide plenty of clearance, but I'm not sure about the polished aluminum look. I could scuff them up, or paint them, or even have them anodized, maybe gold, and then the velocity stacks, too.

I plan to attend the March Meet (deferred to next weekend from Covid) and will scour the swap meet. perhaps I'll locate another vintage looking set that has a larger radius along the top edge. The high, sharp corners on these M/T ones are causing my issues.

opinions welcomed, I'd like to hear others thoughts on this.

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Hi, I have been following your build and had a thought (scary as that may be). A friend of mine and I changed his motor mounts in his Nova from rubber to polyurethane. That created an endless PIA due to the increased height. We switched back to a new set of rubber mounts and problem solved itself. Wondering if you had used the polyurethane or the rubber mounts? I can't tell from the engine photos. It looks like you are using a Model A style round puck, any chance of shaving a 1/2" off the rubber to lower the motor if you have enough pan clearance? Good luck.
 

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Mike's post made me have another thought also. It might be possible to swap in solid steel mounts, and if they don't give more clearance you could slice and dice them to allow the engine to drop slightly and gain some clearance? I have solid steel mounts on both of my gassers, and I don't find them objectionable for vibration. I only feel it at idle, and above idle there's no difference.
There's plenty of metal in the Moroso mounts to allow for a fair amount of adjustment by removing the ears and trimming things down.

 

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My choice is notch the valve cover and be done with it. I’m sure you know someone who can weld aluminum. gotta be sure it won’t interfere with the valve springs and rockers First. Even if you pay someone to tig that notch it would still be worth it so you don't have to mess with anything else.
jmho
 
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And a really good opinion it is Mario that I have also been thinking. A good TIG weld can be ground, sanded and blended so it looks like it is an as cast part of the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #468 ·
thank you everyone for good insight and fast replies. sometimes being buried in the middle of it- it can be difficult to step back and see it objectively. Will try to reply to each comment:

- engine mounts. I used a set of Hinson urethane mounts I had laying around that were for my '06 GTO. These mounts themselves are not able to be trimmed down. To lower the engine I'd need to get a different set of mounts or modify the metal mounting areas. While I don't want to lower the engine, I may need to do some fine tuning to either my engine position or rear axle once I get my driveshaft to fine tune the operating angles. It's something I need to keep in mind.

- modifying the M/T covers. yeah, this is an option, and probably the path of least resistance. I have the ability to braze aluminum, but to have them welded I'd have to find someone. Doable, for sure.

I'll have some time tomorrow to take another look
 

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thank you everyone for good insight and fast replies. sometimes being buried in the middle of it- it can be difficult to step back and see it objectively. Will try to reply to each comment:

- engine mounts. I used a set of Hinson urethane mounts I had laying around that were for my '06 GTO. These mounts themselves are not able to be trimmed down. To lower the engine I'd need to get a different set of mounts or modify the metal mounting areas. While I don't want to lower the engine, I may need to do some fine tuning to either my engine position or rear axle once I get my driveshaft to fine tune the operating angles. It's something I need to keep in mind.

- modifying the M/T covers. yeah, this is an option, and probably the path of least resistance. I have the ability to braze aluminum, but to have them welded I'd have to find someone. Doable, for sure.

I'll have some time tomorrow to take another look
If you notch without disturbing the base edge area maybe brazing is worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #471 ·
I spent most of my day brazing the valve cover and I think I have it all set. I notched out a square area, and added more relief in the back corner while I was at it, as that was close to the hydroboost mounting flange. I thought I took more pics than I have, but I was able to get them brazed with my aluminum brazing rod, and then sanded it with 150 grit to give a similar finish. it's not perfect, but you really can't see it, either, so it's all good as far as I'm concerned. I just hope I don't get too much engine shake/ twist, but I don't believe I will with the mounts that I have.

I also installed my door panels (and looking at the pics I realize I forgot one screw, ha ha), and created another radiator support rod for the top right corner that will provide clearance for the upper radiator hose (yet to be purchased) I have it drying and will provide a pic of that another day, after I take a pic of that, too.

Yesterday I also set up my gas pedal and throttle linkage, as well as finished up the fuel lines.
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Discussion Starter · #472 ·
Update: last screw added to the passenger door panel. I can sleep now tonight :D
 

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Great Job Brendon. Fully functional and looks good too. See I knew if we nudged you, you would do it. Lol
 
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Once again the KISS principle proves to be true; good job.
 

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Hey Brendon, can you show some detailed pics of your throttle set up inside the car? That is on my list and am a little perplexed on how to do it.
 

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Hey Brendon, can you show some detailed pics of your throttle set up inside the car? That is on my list and am a little perplexed on how to do it.
Dave, The simplest and cheapest way is to buy one of these spoon pedal kits with a braided steel cable. I have used these in my last 3 builds and they work great. Don't buy the aluminum pedals, as they slip. But this steel pedal is a good one, and very inexpensive.

 

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Hey Vall, I have one very similar to that. I really wanted a moon pedal but my floor is not set up for it very well.
 
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