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Have to strip and paint all my garnish moldings too, but need to check fitment first to ensure they're correct also. I got the diamond pattern black naugahyde for my doors and side panels last week. Still need to get some paneling to fabricate the panels to put the material on.
 

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Discussion Starter #362
Despite working from home for the past month we still had a long Easter holiday weekend so I spent some time outside working on the '55. I was able to strip the old paint off the dash and repaint it, strip some paint off the front foot well area and rough the surface up for better adhesion (all my paint before was just a quick spray to keep it from rusting) I applied an Eastwood ceramic based paint onto the floors of the car. Mostly because I had it leftover from my Firebird build and never used it there, and I'm sure the BBC will generate plenty of heat, so this may come in handy. It's really thick and is to be textured, which gives it a truck bedliner type of appearance, but not quite as coarse. Once this fully cures I'll paint it black again. I also stripped some of the car's exterior down and gave it a coating of phosphate for now to prevent rust from flashing. You can now see just how rough and hacked the body on this car really is. It's a big deterrent for wanting to have a nice paint job on this. That, and the savings of having to pay for it, pay for rechroming the bits and refinishing the wheels, etc. So my plan is most likely to go with my original vision of a primer- like paint a la 2LBT and no filler. Embrace the rough body and not worry about maintaining another show car. Just enjoy it.
 

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Brendon, I think it looks pretty good body wise. Maybe a little metal fill on the welds in the quarters, but primer isn't a bad choice. Saves a whole lot of sanding to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #365
Brendon, I think it looks pretty good body wise. Maybe a little metal fill on the welds in the quarters, but primer isn't a bad choice. Saves a whole lot of sanding to boot.
Maybe I'm being too critical, ha ha
 

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Maybe I'm being too critical, ha ha
Have you thought about trying Eastwoods imitation lead filler and trying to torch like the old school did on all the weld seams? Its an art but worth a try if you never did it. I tried it on my son's camaro.
It melted down nice and I was able to smooth it but I didn't get rid of all the acid so years later it reacted to the paint layers. That is the only down fall. Otherwise the Allmetal filler is great for that. Or metal to metal from evercoat is great too. Both have aluminum in the filler paste and hardens like a rock so go a little at a time spreading it like bondo. Start with 40 grit to know it flat. Fill again and go 80 grit and so on. It won't crack on you.
 

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I used some All Metal on my weld joints, and also some Duraglass on others. The All Metal is easier to work, but the Duraglass is much harder material, and I changed to using it for most of my weld joints. I think a thin coat of either would do wonders to making your weld seams perfect, even if you do go primer or some satin finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #368
Thanks, guys. appreciate the advice. I have some high spots that have to be brought down, too. The driver side before the wheel is all bubbled out, and I have a big bubble on the top near the trunk. The car came with these, I didn't add them.
 

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Discussion Starter #369
Made some progress this weekend- I added a crossmember underneath the engine, and painted the interior/ engine bay and remainder of the chassis. For the crossmember I made the main hoop first, then added bracing to my engine mount perches to help strengthen everything. Next I sprayed some paint
 

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Discussion Starter #370
Here are a few pics of my painting/ making a mess in my driveway. It's a good thing my driveway is lined with trees or my neighbors might complain about paint fumes, ha ha The engine bay interior floor and trunk floor are all satin black while the roll bar tubing is gloss black.
 

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How much paint did you get on your self shooting the inside......................lol...looks good
 

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Discussion Starter #373
How much paint did you get on your self shooting the inside......................lol...looks good
My arms are still black and I have a glove line, if that's what you mean, ha haha

my driveway cleaned up quickly with a broom. it was mostly dry dust by that point
 

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Discussion Starter #374 (Edited)
Quick update- I dropped the car off this weekend with my painter. He expects 2 months, so I'll keep you all posted as I am updated.

The ironic part is I took this back to the house of the guy I bought the car from. He recommended the painter to me and is letting him use his shop to paint my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #375
This weekend my painter, George, sent me a few shots of my car and to let me know he got a coat of epoxy primer on it. Pics are his.. I also spent a little time working on some "sub assemblies" by painting my radiator black and installing the gauges on my glove box panel. Also helped a friend work on his '73 T/A and worked on my trailer, too
 

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Radiator looks a lot nicer black. Especially with a tilt frontend where it's so visible. Is your painter going to do any filler work over the welds before painting?
 

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Discussion Starter #377
Radiator looks a lot nicer black. Especially with a tilt frontend where it's so visible. Is your painter going to do any filler work over the welds before painting?
yeah, this is just epoxy to seal the metal. I believe all filler and such will go over this. He said he's also going to cut and replace my driver side quarter in front of the wheel opening- it pops out that bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #378
I got my headers back from Swaintech coatings yesterday. I went with their "White Lightning" as it's advertised to be most effective in heat retention. It looks better than I was lead to believe it would as their sale force described it as a functional, but not an aesthetic coating. I like it. It's coarse, almost looks metallic, and I took a close up with a dime for a scale comparison. It does appear to mar easily. I haven't decided yet if I'll leave it like this of paint over it with white header paint.

https://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/
 

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Best I've seen was R&M Engineering, Finish Line Coatings right here in my area. Of course I get to see a lot of their work on local cars, and their white header coating is gorgeous. Extremely smooth and a beautiful stark white satin finish.

http://finishlinecoatings.com/
 

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I just

got my latest edition of Die Cast magazine and our member Brendon Vetuskey, and his 55 gasser build, are highlighted in the article about the success and popularity of the Hot wheels 55 gasser series. The article says that it was designed by Brendon for the first release in 2013. It's no wonder his 55 gasser build is so meticulous!!! So Brendon are you going with a Hot Wheels style paint job? I like the Tuske Gasser, Candy Striper and Gas-hole paint jobs myself. Congratulations on the big shout out to you in the article.
I don't collect the Hot Wheels cars myself, mine are 1/18 & 1/24, but I think it's cool that they actually had a guy who likes and knows gassers design theirs. It's probably the main reason they're so popular.
 
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