[Mac_55]

Hey Guys . Ive been scratchin and savin to buy a huffer now for almost 2 years. I do alot of window shopping but i think im gonna be able to pull the trigger on a purchase shortly .
Ive looked at several really good screamin deals and once i got my hands on it i realised why they were screaming deals , all of em needed rebuilt or had enough slop you could feed hogs with them so ive been a bit gunshy on the whole ebay thing.

Its gonna be feeding a 396 so id like to find an 8:71 set up for a big block .

 

[bentwings]

Let me give you a piece of advice. Unless you really really know the insides and outside of blowers you will be far ahead to just go and buy one from any of the blower companies. I don't always heed my own advise and mine was assembled from at least 6 individuals plus new front and rear covers. It's how I wanted it however without a polished case. It's as tight as any race blower we had back in the 60's. Did I save any $$$ ?? Good question. Maybe $400 at best. Blower kits today are so nice. You can just bolt everything on, it fits and they will run right out of the box. Mine went on in 36 hours last burnout NA to first burnout blown.
Here is a site that is probably your best bet for used stuff. Just be very carefull, some of the stuff is real a cobbled up mess.

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/1275/Blowers.html

 

[Mac_55]

Yeah thats whats been scaring me . Dyers has some pretty reasonable priced kits

 

[bentwings]

You could not go wrong on Dyer's stuff. I've done 2 cars years ago when he was the only one that had good street stuff. Bolt on and go. Great support. He used AVS carbs then and had a tune up kit for the blower. Worked great. I think they are Edelbrock carbs now. They still work but I prefer Holley.

He sells a lot of them. When I go to events the first thing I check out are the blown cars from rat to top fuel. I see them everywhere.

 

[pappy's 1/4 pounder]

A few years ago, a friend gave me a 671 that he took off his diesel. I bought a book called "Street Supercharging" at Summit Racing. Having a background in machining, I blueprinted the blower to the specs called for in the book. (I had access to a machine shop for free). Then, I started buying the intake,carbs,linkage,rear cover and bearings and seals, snout,and pulleys and belt. When I was done, I had a blower that worked,looked good, and cost damn near as much as if I had just bought an outfit from BDS or any of the other manufacturers. I did have the satisfaction of doing it myself, but I would probably just buy one now. My advice to you : use the 8mm pulleys and belts for the wildest blower whine you can imagine. If you don't want the noise of a blower (ya,right) use the gilmore style belt and pulleys. The whine of the blower will scare your competition away on the street........What a great feeling...............Bob

 

[Mac_55]

Awsome thanks for the advice Pappy . 8mm it is ha ha ha!!

 

[bentwings]

Another little thought....if you plan on driving a lot get the hard anodized pulleys. They are sort of OD green but they wear much better. After 12k miles last year my 8mm are about 25% worn out. I got on the gravel roads and lots of rain so I guess the road trash didn't help matters.

A long as you are going to make all that noise you might as well add a gear drive to the cam. I've got a 'noisy one' so between the blower and the cam drive I really don't need a horn to announce my arrivals. haha

 

[bryan67]

well dont know if you ever purchased your blower yet. I have used Dyer's blower's on a Camaro and a ford Bronco both with NP's. I will be using one again on the Volvo build we are starting. Gary and the Guys have been a real big help and very friendly over the years.

 

[bentwings]

Speaking of blower whine I accidently set the belt tension when the motor was warm to the tension it normally is when cold.
Zowee talk about whine. I thought the gear case was low on lube. I tightened it back to where it should be and it's quiet again.

 

[Marks63PontiacGasser]

Bryan, is Dyers there in the Chicago area or ??? I'm just wondering what a full blower system without carbs would cost? Damn, probably too much no matter what I sell. But I gotta ask. Mark L

 

[rivieragasser]

hey MAC i helped a friend do a blower build it was our first we built a 555 with 871.what a pain in the ass it was...i want you to look at this guy before you buy BIG AL'S TOY BOX. and PROFORMANCE UNLIMITED.. yahoo search them big al's is all turn key blower motors that dont dreak the wallet the other guy is just awsome watch his run videos of his motors hes a great builder....






real men drive gassers

 

[bentwings]

Here is dyer's site
http://dyersblowers.com/

Generally a complete 6-71 and drive with manifold is about $3k. Unfortunately it doesn't stop there. 2 blower carbs are about 1200 +/, linkage is about $150, fuel lines are about $170, A BDS scoop and air cleaners are about $300 ( sometimes on sale at GoodVibrations)

Carefully shopping at racingjunk.com and get you a real bargan but be carefull. Once in a great while you can get a stock case blower either built for you or someone is selling. Again be carefull.

You can piece out the blower and drive but make sure you know what you are getting. For example you may run across a stock built blower and just buy all the drive kit.

Dyer, Blower shop, Don Hampton, BDS, Littlefield, Moonyham and Deansblowers.com are good starting points.

I have a stock blower that we built from 6 separate units. Not polished. reason: unpolished case has many times the surface area of a polished case so it runs cooler, and it looks all business at least in my mind.

Here is a site for dreams. He actually has very good deals.
http://www.bigalstoybox.com/