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Yeah. I'm at that point that I'm going to be cutting out the firewall/floor and thinking about what to use to refloor it. What I use will determine how much and where to do all the reinforcing frame work. Not sure I'll be able to afford the aluminum though. As much as i would like it. Getting tight on the build budget. Mark L
 

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Hey drag 57 you might check out jegs, they sell complete or partial aluminum interior kits. Dont know if you want to go that route.
 

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I went with 16ga and 18ga. steel for my floors and firewall. It was cheaper, and easier to weld in than aluminum.
 

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I'm doing my '57's floor with steel supports and aluminum flooring. I've done a few other cars this same way and the floor comes out strong and light, best of both worlds. Granted, it's a lot more work and more $$$$ then just welding in a sheetmetal floor, but for me it's worth it. I'll also make my tranny tunnel removable in the bellhousing area, sure does simplify clutch adjustments! No back seat going in mine, but there will be a flat area nicely carpeted so my dog has a nice place to ride!!!!!!
 

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Do you do your own aluminum welding Dave? Or do you bolt it all in? I'd like to get an aluminum spool gun for my welder but those things are not cheap. I'll probably end up with tins. Mark L
 

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I've got no rear seat in either of my cars Dave. I went the package shelf route on my Austin, and also on my '71 Camaro ex drag car, now street ride.
My rear area in the Austin. Not quite finished in this pic:


The Camaro:

 

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Mark, even though I am STILL waiting for those free plane tickets and your couch lol, I think you should consider the aluminum for the following reasons:
1) a 4 x 8 sheet of .050 aluminum runs about 100 bucks, compared to around 60 for steel so there is not a huge price difference with the one or two sheets you are going to need
2) the aluminum will be soooooooo much easier and faster for a guy at home to work with, a pair of electric double cuts will do almost all you need ( my buddy just got a set of Porter Cable's on Ebay for 45 bucks)
3) the aluminum won't need to be coated to keep it from rusting.....I like to spray the underside with a good quality bed liner like material to add weight and keep the noise down (also helps with small rock dings)
4) you can do all the work with hand tools and a rivet gun, buy the large head rivets as they look better IMHO and are less likely to loosen (also they will cover any small errors in drilling---don't ask how I know this :<)

I'm sure some of the experts will chime in about galvanic reactions etc or something but for your purpose I think Aluminum will be easier.
 

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I'm sure some of the experts will chime in about galvanic reactions etc or something but for your purpose I think Aluminum will be easier.
I agree 100% on the aluminum...I use adhesive along with the rivets where the aluminum meets the steel, then any issues of corrosion between dissimilar metals becomes a non-issue.....


46 Austin--The interiors look really nice, not sure if I'm going to do any upholstery other then the seats.... I might do some vinyl inserts on the door panels but that would be about it...
 

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So, like a model car, I can glue it all together. I like that idea. Mark L
 
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