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Yes way to go. Sounds like you’re on the right path. Who amongst us hasn’t had the distributor off a tooth now and then. When I worked on Oldsmobile and Chevy motors I was a stickler for that advance unit being in the right spot. Firewall space to the manifold was specific. You could tell right away when someone put something back on the wrong tooth.
 
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1992 jeep wrangler (YJ)
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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Yes way to go. Sounds like you’re on the right path. Who amongst us hasn’t had the distributor off a tooth now and then. When I worked on Oldsmobile and Chevy motors I was a stickler for that advance unit being in the right spot. Firewall space to the manifold was specific. You could tell right away when someone put something back on the wrong tooth.
Yeah if the dang oil pump shaft would have cooperated with me i would have been alright as i remembered where it used to sit, but got annoyed after what felt like 30 minutes of r&i the distributor, and turning the shaft i said ah eff it i think ill have enough adjustment...welll i didnt haha guess the oil pump shaft won that one 🤣...
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
For many years I used a big flat blade screwdriver to try and turn the oil pump shaft to clock it. They one day I grabbed my oil pump priming tool and bingo! Never had anymore frustration clocking distributors after that. Must be 40 years now using the same priming tool?
Yeah i have a priming tool but ford uses a 1/4"hex so makes it tough to keep track of where the flat is....chevys are so nice to work on...should have stuck with the small block i was building lol
 

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Actually, there's 2 things I like about Ford. The hex shaft makes alignment with the oil pump a breeze and with the distributor mounted in the front, that's a bonus also. For people who don't have a priming tool a 1/4" drive, 6 point deep socket with a 6" extension works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Actually, there's 2 things I like about Ford. The hex shaft makes alignment with the oil pump a breeze and with the distributor mounted in the front, that's a bonus also. For people who don't have a priming tool a 1/4" drive, 6 point deep socket with a 6" extension works great.
Ahhhh that topped with a spinner or ratchet on the extension would definitely make turning the shaft alot easier..🤦‍♂️duhhh lol...the cold thick oil was making turning that shaft a pain.. ill try that when i go to reset the distributor. Thanks for the tip 👍👍
 

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Yeah i have a priming tool but ford uses a 1/4"hex so makes it tough to keep track of where the flat is....chevys are so nice to work on...should have stuck with the small block i was building lol
Years ago I used a cutoff wheel and made a mark on the top of my priming tool so I can look at it and know how much I'm moving it. Just dropping it over the shaft usually meant I could maybe still be slightly off, but with the mark I can see exactly how much I moved it.
And if you use a socket and extension just put a felt mark on the extension to see how much you turned it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Took a short video of it running saturday whiel i was cleaning out the garage. Couldnt get it to idle below 1,000 rpms i think the lightweight flywheel alone doesnt have the mass to keep it from stalling. Will see how it runs with the clutch and trans bolted up. Sounds pretty good though and was the first time really getting to stand back and look at it.


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Took a short video of it running saturday whiel i was cleaning out the garage. Couldnt get it to idle below 1,000 rpms i think the lightweight flywheel alone doesnt have the mass to keep it from stalling. Will see how it runs with the clutch and trans bolted up. Sounds pretty good though and was the first time really getting to stand back and look at it.


View attachment 108774
Hot damn, sounds and looks great, thanks for posting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Thanks guys! Yeah im really happy with how it runs so far. Feels very snappy, and sounds awsome. Wasnt to cold was high 40's out and fired right up with no choke. Now gotta toss in the clutch, trans, and rear so i can order a driveshaft. I have a video of it on youtube with the stock heads and cam sounds way different lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Waiting on pressure plate bolts to put the clutch and trans in so started on the rear end. Got the 8.8 in and pulled one leaf spring on each pack to get it lower the back end. Have been wanting to see the slotted mags mounted since i got them so i pulled a tire off the old wheels and mounted it this morning. Think they look pretty good with the 31x10.5 tires.
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Does sound good Jimbo! I can’t wait to hear it roll down the road. what you’re building is what I pictured for my gasser project before I built the MG. I couldn’t find a CJ for cheap back in 2010-11. I love what you’re doing. You have a good eye. Keep up the good work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Does sound good Jimbo! I can’t wait to hear it roll down the road. what you’re building is what I pictured for my gasser project before I built the MG. I couldn’t find a CJ for cheap back in 2010-11. I love what you’re doing. You have a good eye. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mario,
Appreciate the kind words. The mg you built is way cooler than any cj ive seen so you made the right move, and your 35 chevy is a bad machine. Hope to put a cj7 front clip on it one day being they share the same body as myin. One thing I like about the yj's are the dash. I like how it has gauges going across almost to the passengers door, but the front ends are god awful haha. Keeping my fingers crossed i can have it on the road sometime in the spring.
 

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