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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
While im waiting on parts to put the trans in i figured ide mess with the motor. Debating on doing some light port matching on the heads and intake, but i had to slap the tunnel ram on wanted to check to see if i needed to trim the firewall or not, but fits like a glove. Need to run a spacer so the rear carb linkage doesnt hit the plenum, i already have a 1 inch open spacer, but thinking maybe a combo tapered spacer would work better on the tunnel ram. Anyone tried them?

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I'd want whatever spacers used to be the same on both carbs, even if both don't need clearance. Just makes them the same, and less tuning issues.
Yeah exactly. was going to use the same under both carbs. Just wasnt sure if ide be waisting money buying two of the tapered combo spacers or just buy one open spacer. Hope that makes sence lol i feel like im confusing myself..
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
you cannot get much closer than that. That hood is gonna be tough to trim out eh?
Yeah gonna have to cut it for sure lol. I think if i remove the carb spacers i can shut the hood then ill trace it from underneath. hole saw the corners and cut it with a cutoff wheel. I might have to use some round stock across the back since there wont be much if any material left across the back.
 

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Yeah exactly. was going to use the same under both carbs. Just wasnt sure if ide be wasting money buying two of the tapered combo spacers or just buy one open spacer. Hope that makes since lol i feel like im confusing myself..
That intake already has the angle built into it, so I would not pay the price for tapered spacers. It doesn't need them, and with the large open plenum a tunnel ram has, open spacers wont affect anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
That intake already has the angle built into it, so I would not pay the price for tapered spacers. It doesn't need them, and with the large open plenum a tunnel ram has, open spacers wont affect anything.
Sorry i meant this style. I think there called tapered combo spacers. Suposedly they give you a better signal to the carb on an open plenum manifold helping with throttle response supposedly. Never used they just stuff ive read on fourms about tunnelrams on the street.

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Sorry i meant this style. I think there called tapered combo spacers. Suposedly they give you a better signal to the carb on an open plenum manifold helping with throttle response supposedly. Never used they just stuff ive read on fourms about tunnelrams on the street.

View attachment 108554
I'd like to see some actual dyno tests done using those spacers on a tunnel ram before I'd believe they could make any difference on a tunnel ram setup. I do think on a dual plane, or open plenum single plane they might have some effect. But I seriously doubt they could make any difference with a tunnel ram's large open plenum the carbs sit on top of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Yeah ive never ran them. Ive only used open spacers on dual plane manifolds. A good amount of you guys seem to be running tunnel rams or have ran them, and drive them on the street so figured if they were that good you guys would have heard about them. Open spacers it is lol.
 

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I'm always surprised when I see tunnel rams that need a spacer for carb clearance to linkage, or throttle arms. Makes me wonder just what carbs they were designed for if they wont take carbs without needing spacers to clear? My Holley Pro Dominator from the early 70's and my Weiand tunnel rams didn't need a spacer to bolt Holley carbs on.
Have you tried bolting these carbs end to end instead of sideways? Maybe it's the sideways mounting causing this clearance issue. End to end makes carb linkage much easier to build.
 

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I'm always surprised when I see tunnel rams that need a spacer for carb clearance to linkage, or throttle arms. Makes me wonder just what carbs they were designed for if they wont take carbs without needing spacers to clear? My Holley Pro Dominator from the early 70's and my Weiand tunnel rams didn't need a spacer to bolt Holley carbs on.
Have you tried bolting these carbs end to end instead of sideways? Maybe it's the sideways mounting causing this clearance issue. End to end makes carb linkage much easier to build.
I thought the same when I saw the photos of the carbs mounted sideways Vall. I was really close to replacing the Holley DPs I'm using for just that reason, the linkage, plus I had to have adaptors welded to my Ford Tunnel Wedge manifold because it didn't have the dual bolt pattern for carbs.
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It would have made the whole installation so much easier, and cheaper, if I'd been able to mount them inline.
 

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I thought the same when I saw the photos of the carbs mounted sideways Vall. I was really close to replacing the Holley DPs I'm using for just that reason, the linkage, plus I had to have adaptors welded to my Ford Tunnel Wedge manifold because it didn't have the dual bolt pattern for carbs. View attachment 108555
It would have made the whole installation so much easier, and cheaper, if I'd been able to mount them inline.
I've contemplated a lot of scenarios trying to get my Austin's Pro Dominator to be inline carbs, but spacing is the big issue. They're too close together, and nobody makes offset spacers that just offset a small amount, like about 1"? I'm stuck, and don't want to lose the Holley tunnel ram as it's vintage, and I like it. But I want to swap on a pair of carbs I have here, but they're 1850's and vacuum secondaries wont clear each other side by side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
I'm always surprised when I see tunnel rams that need a spacer for carb clearance to linkage, or throttle arms. Makes me wonder just what carbs they were designed for if they wont take carbs without needing spacers to clear? My Holley Pro Dominator from the early 70's and my Weiand tunnel rams didn't need a spacer to bolt Holley carbs on.
Have you tried bolting these carbs end to end instead of sideways? Maybe it's the sideways mounting causing this clearance issue. End to end makes carb linkage much easier to build.
Yeah i had thought about it but i like the fact i wont have to remove the carbs to do jet changes or anything like that when there mounted, and i like the look of the carbs sideways vs straight. Also i already have the linkage for sideways carbs. So why i was kinda sticking with it..
 

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Yeah i had thought about it but i like the fact i wont have to remove the carbs to do jet changes or anything like that when there mounted, and i like the look of the carbs sideways vs straight. Also i already have the linkage for sideways carbs. So why i was kinda sticking with it..
But those changes don't happen as often as idle air changes, and with carbs mounted sideways it's much tougher to adjust the idle air screws, and they are the more common adjustments we need to make. Yours are a bit farther apart, so a stubby thin tip screwdriver will work for you. I had to make a little sheet metal screwdriver to access between carbs with the tight quarters mine have between them.
The linkage will require a bell crank setup to operate the throttle, and change direction from straight to the 90 degree turn to pull the two carb linkages. Plus a common shaft across the two carbs to allow the single throttle cable to operate both carbs. I ordered a bunch of small 10-32 heim ends, and 3/16" rod plus some rod supports to make up all of mine. It was still somewhat expensive, but not as expensive as purchasing all the pieces as a kit to include a bell crank and carb linkage. Back over a decade ago the kit to make sideways carbs work was $250, not sure what it is these days?
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Yeah i found a complete kit for a ford 289/302 good vibrations had, was 125 i think. I will have to make a mount for my throttle cable though, but thats not a big deal. Good idea with the homemade screwdriver its a little tight to get in there but not impossible. And had thought about eventually getting the metering block kit for the 4160 cars so it would have jets and not a metering plate for the secondaries. If i put those on i wouldnt be able to run them inline.
 

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Yeah i found a complete kit for a ford 289/302 good vibrations had, was 125 i think. I will have to make a mount for my throttle cable though, but thats not a big deal. Good idea with the homemade screwdriver its a little tight to get in there but not impossible. And had thought about eventually getting the metering block kit for the 4160 cars so it would have jets and not a metering plate for the secondaries. If i put those on i wouldnt be able to run them inline.

I got these for my carbs and they make it much easier to adjust the mixture with your fingers.
 

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Do they stick out a little past the block to be able to grasp them easily Steve?
Yes they do Vall. I guess you don't remember a few years back when you were commenting about the hassle of adjusting the mixture screws and I brought these up. At that time you said you weren't aware of them but were going to look into them.
 
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